WORLX)WIDE

Moulton Library

Bangor Tli#ol#il@al Seminary J

Presented

by

The Rev, Robert Howard

Aj-^y^

I

i3

World-Wide

Missions

H. F. Reynolds, D. D.

General Missionary
Secretary

PUHLISIIING HOUSE of the

I']:XT!'X'()STAL CHURCH OF THE NAZAHENE

KANSAS CITY. MISSOURI

Copyright, 1915,

GENERAL MISSIONARY BOARD, PENTECOSTAL
CHURCH OF THE NAZARENE

Dedication

TJii^ hod- is dedicated to the Pentecostal Cliurch of the
Nazarote, and its many friends in all lands.

Contents

pac:e
lutruductioii «

Beg'iniiinc;- the Journey 9

Part I: Japan 20

Paht IT: Cliina CH

Paht III: India 123

Part IY: Africa ^ ITS

^fexico, Central America, Cuba 211

Say not ye, There are yet four months, anO iheii cometh the
harvest? hcho!d, I say unto you. Lift up youi- eyes, and loolc on
the fields: for they are white already to liarvest -— Jyisvs.

Introduction

In this twentictli century liook-makiug era, some may be
prompted to question

"Why Another Book?"
and, to such, we would reply :

(1) The General Missionary Board of the Pentecostal
Church of the Nazarene, in annual meeting, October 22-26,
1913, feeling' that if we are to faithfully and intelligently dis-
charge our obligations, and carry out the Lord's command in
Matthew 28 : 18-20, not only by re-enforcing the work already
begun, but by taking cognizance of new opportunities to
extend His Kingdom, it was of paramount importance that
we have more accurate and intimate acquaintance with the
needs of our mission fields; and they also believing that this
survey would help us to secure such necessary financial and
spiritual support as would enable us to make a wise and more
effective distribution of our forces and equipment, appointed
the writer to undertake an early tour of inspection, and record
his observations.

(2) Because it was felt the homeland church would want
to know something of its missionary representatives and what
they are trying to accomplish for the cause of Holiness; also
because the conviction was entertained that the reader, when
he is informed of all these things, will not only know what he
should give, and why, but would ^vish to give with increased
liberality.

Besides, such action seemed the more justifiable because of
the Providential circumstances in connection with the work in
the various fields; and was further demonstrated as being advis-
able by the fact that quite a sum. towards the expenses of such
a trip was promised by several persons, some of whom did not
belong to our denomination. Brother Upchurch started the
financial ball to rolling.

The author, in presenting this little volume, makes no claim
to literary merit, but has sought to carefully record his observa-
tions in mission fields for the benefit of the church and the
glory of God.

H, F. Keynolds.

World-Wide Missions

Beginning the Journey

By very strenuous effort, and the. blessing- of God, the writer
succeeded in making- the necessary preparation to start from
Kansas City, Mo., December 1, 1913, on the Mission Survey
in his around-the-world-tour.

In the good i3rovidence of God it was arranged that the
writer should beg-in his tour in company with a strong bind
of missionaries being sent out at this time to reinforce our
workers upon the field. This band consisted of Eev. and Mrs.
L. H. Humphrey, Misses Lillian Pool and Lulu Williams, des-
tined for Japan; Rev. and Mrs. Peter Keihn, and son Arnold,
and Miss Glennie Sims, for China; Misses Hulda and Leoda
Grebe, and Miss Virginia Roush, for India.

As our missionary party was booked to sail from San Fran-
cisco, December 16, 1913, we made a rapid itinerary, holding-
farewell missionary meetings at Greeley and Colorado Sx)rings,
Colorado; Pirst Church, Los Angeles, and University and First
Church in Pasadena, closing- in Southern California with Rev.
Lucy P. Knott's church. Wo were greatly indebted to District
Missionary Treasurer Brother L. F. Gay, who may be recog-
nized in the accompanying picture, in that he took com.pletc
charge of all the arrangemnets for our booking, itinerary on the
coast, etc.

Being greatly wearied from such a pressure of work, Judge
and Rev. Lucy P. Knott planned a day's rest for the writer,
their son. Brother Proctor Knott, taking him to "Camp Thank-
ful," beautifully located on a slope of one of the Sierra ]\radre
foothills. Returning, wo made a brief call on Doctor Walker,
who may be seen standing by one of the heavily laden ori^ng-e
trees in his grove.

On going- north, the missionary party was divided into two
bands, and farewell meetings were held in B;ikerstield, Milton,

10

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

and Stockton — all meetinsr in Berkeley, Saturday night. Sun-
day, December 14th, missionary meetings were held in Ala-
meda, Berkeley, Oakland, and San Francisco. By special re-
quest, Doctor Bresee had joined the party, and his two masterly

LESLIE F. GAY

sermons g-ave a g^reat and lasting inspiration to the outgoing
missionaries. See his picture.

It is unnecessary to enlarge on the fact that our party
was exceedingly weary from the constant demands upon them,
but proved themselves to be good soldiers, and for the first time
all present were together at the Oakland church. See them in
the picture.

CAMP THANKFUL

DR. E. F. WALKER AT HOME
11

^2'

t-t ^

lii:(iINXlX(i Till-; .lOUHXEY

13

This was ci memorable occasion in the Pentecostal Church of
the Nazarene. We pause to mention one incident : In the midst
of the services, we had singing in eleven different languages:
German, Spanish, Portuguese, Japanese, Chinese, Armenian,
Turkish, Hindustani, Hawaiian, and English; and, best of all,
one understood the things that Avere sung, in the tongue in
which ho was born (Acts 2:8). Yet. this was not the end, for

DR. P. F. BRESEE

Tuesday at about 11 -Ad in the morning, ,whon our party had
come aboard the great steamer Tenyo Mam, a large number of
the saints from the Bay City churches had gathered on deck,
where another great service was held. It is a question in the
mind of the writer if ever before such singing, praying, and
shouting has been heard on the deck of any ship. We were
lifted to the very throne of heaven, and our spiritual vision
was mightily increased — lost nations destined for eternity

14

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

were brought nigh, and all the missionaries stood ready as it
were to bear the news on eagle wings.

Now, with the last saint gone ashore, the last good-bye and
God bless you spoken, the last flying message speeding across
the country to tell loved ones of our safe departure, the great
ship vnih her precious cargo of human souls backed out into
the bay, and swung around toward the Golden Gate. Mean-
while, there were those both aboard ship and on the land who
were sad, as well as glad, yet all rejoiced with a joy unspeakable,
for all knew that in the name of the King of kings and the

S. S. TENYO MARU

Lord of lords, the Pentecostal Church of the Nazar^^ne was
more determined than ever to

"Girdle the globe with salvation
And holiness unto the Lord."

and all knew that we are only in tlie dawning of a new day
In the missionary movement of the Pentecostal Church of the
Nazarene.

When our steamer had borne us so far from the pier we
could no longer distinguish the precious saints ashore, we turned
with the throng that was crowding the deck, to view the mag-

BEGINNING THE JOURNEY 15

iiifieeiit scenery, as we passed out through the beautiful Golden
Gate.

Having been booked for passage with a Christian gentleman,
we were much disappointed in our roommates, inasmuch as
one of them proved to be a very wicked man, who had a stock
of liquor and tobacco, besides being very vulgar of speech.
The other, a lawyer, though highly cultured and of polished
manners, seemed to endorse the action of the first named party.
I soon took in the situation, and saw at once that light or
darkness was to prevail, so T ran up the blood-stained banner
of Jesus, and stood bj^ the colors to the end. I asked the other
men to please allow me to read a portion of the Scripture, and
my attention was directed to the One Hundred and Seventh
Psalm, 23rd to 30th verses. I had liberty in e^stablishing an
altar by prayer and was greatly blessed in the presence of mine
enemies. The last part of the thirtieth verse was illumined by
the Holy Spirit — ''So he bringeth them unto their desired
haven." I then retired about 9 :40, resting my whole weight on
that precious and appropriate promise of God.

About 11 :30 I was aroused by the alarm of fire, when
someone of our party came to the door and said, '"There is a
fire on board!" The first thing I thought of was that promise,
* So he bringeth them unto their desired haven." The fire,
which it was supposed had been started by someone carelessly
throwing the unused end of a cigarette into one of the store-
rooms, was soon extinguished; and the passengers finally
quieted. But you can imagine the scene, with the frightened
women crowding about. The ship was of iron, and of course
could not have been easily destroyed ; yet a good deal of wood
was used in the fittings and furnishings; so considerable dam-
age could have been done had these burned, as well as injury
sustained by her voyagers — we carried 320 steerage, 120 second-
class, and 50 first-class passengers — and it reminded me of the
great voyage of life, with myriads of precious souls hurrying
into the endless eternity.

Early in the morning of our seventh day out, December
20th, we arrived in the beautiful harbor of Honolulu, where
our entire party disembarked at about 8 :30 o'clock, spending the
whole day ashore. It certainly proved a rest day, as well as

16

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

one of profitable recreation. Much of our enjoyment tiiere vras
due to the manaj^ement of the superinttHident of the Methodist
Korean Mission, the Rev. R> Zurbuchen, also a teacher in the
Mills School, and presiding elder of about fifty Korean missions.
He met us at the boat landing- and took us first to a good res-
taurant, where several of our members, who had not been able
to eat much aboard ship, were able to enjoy a good meal.

Our party now visited the famous Aquarium, and the Manoa
Valley, magnificent and beautiful with its rugged mountains
and deep canyons dotted with native and foreign farms.

MOUNTAINS OF HAWAII

All our party attended Christmas services in the first-class
dining room, the whole number present on this occasion being
about twenty-five. Rev. Mr. Larrego, who was enroute for Can-
ton, conducted the mxeeting.

In the afternoon, the missionaries had a very interesting
Christmas in the room, of Brother and Sister Humphrey, pirt
of the programme — one of great interest - — being the opening
and reading of mtuiy letters which had been entrusted to them
by friends before leaving California, said letters bearing the
mark "Not to be opened until Christmas morning." Sweet-

BEGINNINCi THE JOURNEY 17

moats, caiulic's, and nuts were served, liavinu' been provided by
the thongbtfiil love of these same kindly friends. To add to
our ecmfort and enjoyment, the steward seemed to remember
we were from the country whose national dinner was ahvays
served with the proverbial turkey and its accompaniment of
cranberry sauce. Most of the afternoon we spent in consid-
ering our proposed missionary undertakings, especially the work
of Japan and China, and were much blessed in the prayerful
study of the situation.

At 4:00 p. m. wo reached Longitude 180 degrees West and
"lost a day" — jumping from Thursday, December 25th, to
Saturday, December 27th. At the time of crossing this merid-
ian, wo were probably about the middle of the Pacific Ocean —
that is, in North Latitude 21 degTees, 54 minutes, and Longi-
tude 180 degrees, where the ocean, it is claimed, attains a
depth of six miles.

It reminded us of the Scripture which says, "God hath cast
our sins into the depth of the sea" (Micah 7: 19). Our prayer
was that all might realize the fulfillment of this passage.

Several interesting evangelistic meetings were held througli-
out the voyage, which resulted in the saving of a number of
precious souls. At the close of one of those held among the
steerage passengers, a Japanese Avoman came to the mission-
aries' room to have her two children baptized; but, before the
interview terminated, the mother herself was converted, and
was baptized together with her two little children. The ac-
companying picture, taken on the deck of the Tenyo Maru,
will give the reader an idea of this little group.

The writer, having been requested to take note of the ac-
comm.odations of those traveling second class, to those inter-
ested, will make a few statements which otherw^ise might be
omitted :

With reference to the rooms of second class passage, the
writer can make no definite statement, for so many traveled
second class en this trip, the ship's company could not ac-
commodate them all, and had to assign them to first class
rooms, which were very good indeed. When one comes to
the matter of food and table service, there was a great diversity
of opinion. All agreed that there was a good supply, and

18

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

(liiite a variety from which to select, but the trouble seemed to
bo with the consumers, some maintaining" that the cooking- was
overdone, others that it was half done, yet others that it was
not done at all. Some said it was what it was cooked with,
some that it was the odors which came from where it was
cooked. And who shall say as to whether each one spoke the
trjth or that he v:as not right so far as his own knowledg-e and
experience went to make up the matter of what was said ? As
one of the missionaries w^ho recently sailed wrote, "We do n't

.JAPANESE MOTHER CONVERTED DURING VOYAGE

find that the second class is equal to the first." I am persuaded,
however, that it may not be the best policy to impair the physical
condition of our workers going to foreign fields by allowing
them to travel second class — unless unusually good — for while
in so doing we may save the amount of one or two month's
pay by the difference in transportation, .if because of such
second class passage the missionary should arrive on the field
of labor unfitted to work for several months, there would be no
gain, to say nothing of the inconvenience to the missionary
and his impaired efficiency at a time when he needs to rally

BEGINNING THE J(3UKNEY 19

all his resources, physical, mental, and spiritual, to the serious
problems confronting- him in a strange land and among strange
peoples.

According to a Japanese New Year's custom, some of the
party passed at an early hour to the several doors of our mis-
sionaries, and softly sang some familiar hymns. The writer
distinctly heard, "The toils of the road will seem nothing when
we get to the end of the way." It never had seem.ed so sweet
to him as at that early hour, as he thought of home, the journey
now under way, and heaven, and the lot of the sanctified Chris-
tian so full of comfort and holy joy. May God speed the day
when not a few, but whole ship loads of missionaries shall be
sent to carry the "glad tidings" to those who sorrow with no
hope (1 Thess. 4:13).

We arrived in Yokohama harbor in the early morning, r.nd
our steamer, having come to the company's dock at about 10 -OO
o'clock, those who were not already on deck exerted themselves
to g-et there; for it would never do to be found sick when the
health officers inspected the ship's passengers — that is, if one
wished to go ashore. This duty over, and the travelers per-
mitted to land, I think there was never a happier company than
our band of missionaries. Our hearts bubbled over with joy
and thanksgiving for our safe deliverance from every danger,
seen and unseen.

All were soon ashore, the baggage speedily following, except
such goods as belonged to missionaries destined for China and
India.

Having a clean bill of health, and passports si^ed by United
States Secretary W. J. Bryan, that we were citizens of the
United States, we were permitted to enter Japan, just as we
must have the blessing of a clean heart and the witness of the
Holy Ghost to our citizenship to enter heaven, for "without
holiness, no man shall see God." Because of this command, our
missionaries are crossing land and sea that the Gospel in its
fulness may be taught to the millions for w^hom Jesus died.
Dear reader, pray that God will open their eyes to behold won-
drous things out of His law (Ps. 119: 18).

Part I

Japan

THE COTTNTRY

Area. Japan is a country with small area and dense popu-
lation, having- about 161,200 square miles, or smaller than
Texas, and a trifle larger than California.

Population. The Japanese probably number about forty-
five million souls.

Number of Inhahitants to square mile. It is difncult to form
an accurate conception as to the density of the population of
this island country abstractly; but when one recalls that the
State of New York, with one-fourth the area of Japan and
over nine million population, has an average of 192 persons
to the square mile, and that California, the same in area as
Japan, with nearly tw^o and a half million poi^ulation, has an
average of sixteen persons to the square mile, one begins to
appreciate that Japan, with 280 persons to the square mile, is
very hard pressed for room for her rapidly increasing popu-
lation.

Location. This Sunrise Empire, with her sea-bathed shores,
is spread over an oceanic territory within the boundary of
latitudes 20 to 50 degrees North and longitudes 120 to 150 East,
giving these sons of Nippon an industrial farm, of 1,800 miles
square.

THE FIELD

Impression. The ^vriter's impression — not his first, how-
ever, which is apt to take the precedent, but his impression
after visiting Japan, China, India, and vSouth Africa, judging
from the limited knowledge gained by reading, observation, and
conversation is — that Japan is both the easiest and m.ost dif-
ficult field in which we have to establish, enlarge, and perfect
our work.

20

JAPAN 21

Easiest GeofjrapJiiralh/. Our workers can roach Japan in
from twelve to twenty days of ocean travel, arriving- at either
of the points where we now have a mission station. Once within
the Empire, the worker can reach any point where we would
be apt to do work, either by rail or waterway. In all cities,
and almost if not all the villages, there are hotels where one
can find accommodation with cither foreign or native food,
and a bed — though it may be on the floor.

Numerically. The millions of Japan are made easy of access
from the fact that it is a national custom for them to live in
cities, and large or small villages, making it possible for the
missionary and his helper to easily reach the people.

Educationally. Japan has her system of public education,
similar to that of the United States of America, so that it is
at once possible for one to appeal to the individual through an
educated mind, not only by personal effort, but by the aid of
the printed page, such as Bible, tracts, song-s, and pictures to
back up and clarify the truth the missionary or worker desires
to convey.

From these few facts mentioned, it may be readily seen
that it is much easier to reach a people where the way has been
prepared, in a measure, for the more direct work of the mis-
sionary, than in a country where many of the above mentioned
conditions do not exist, as is often the case in India, China,
and South Africa, when one gets away from treaty ports.

Most Difficult. The fact that Japan became civilized, or
somi-civilized, before being to any considerable extent Chris-
tianized, places her among the most difficult people among
whom to accomplish successful Christian work. She adopted
the Western, or so-called Christian ideas of the West — such
as education, business methods, dress, sporting, pleasure seek-
ing, and much of the rush and bustle of the Westerner, before
giving up her heathen worship, or adopting the Christian re-
ligion.

Her Self -Sufficiency. The writer does not claim to have
traced when or where she became imbued with this spirit of
self-sufficiency, though some attribute it to her recent victories
in naval and military engagements with Russia and China.
Yet, to the writer, it seems a disease of longer duration, and

22 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

so deeply seated that it might have had its origin in the de-
praved condition of heart of many of her subjects, as manifested
to a marked degree both in the individual and national in-
dependence. There seems to be not much if any spirit of
humility.

Infidelity. While there is on the part of many of the
Japanese, especially among the studtnit body, a breaking aw. y
from their worship of idols, there seems to be a strong tendency
to swing like a pendulum to the other extreme, and reject all
religion.

Many having rejected the religion of their ancestors, are
ready to read anything on religious and scientific subjects, and
naturally fall in with much of the infidel literature being pro-
fusely scattered, especially among the students of Japan.

While it is a great victory for the Gospel of Christ that so
many have turned from their idols to serve the true and living-
God, yet it remains a fact that only one in five, or only ten
millions of her fifty millions have heard nn intelligent presen-
tation of the Gospel of our blessed Lord, and grt^at darkness
still remains.

Education. All classes in Japan are anxious for education,
both in their own and the English language. Among the first
things a missionary will have a chance to do is to teach English,
either private classes, or in schools, or individual pupils. Many
times the young Japanese will come to the missionaries' homes
and engage in conversation just to get the advantage of the
English pronunciation; and unless the missionaries are on the
alert, these young men will follow up the Bible class, or per-
sonal interviews, just for the advantage they may gain in help-
ing them on in their knowledge of the English language, which
all of the young men are especially anxious to obtain. While God
can and does overrule their motives sometimes, and they get
saved, yet, unless the missionary is on guard against it, they
will take up the time wholly for their own advantage in English.

Climate. While Japan does not extend far into the tropical
zone — her southernmost point being 20 degrees North latitude,
vOT about the same as Florida, and while her climate may not
be worse than that of other coimtries, there is yet something in
the atmos])heric currents that seems to baffle most experienced

JAPAN

23

physicians with reference to its action on American and En^^-
lish missionaries — especially Americans.

Through the thong'htfulness of Sister Cora G. Snyder, our
Superintendent at Fukuchiyama, arrangements had been per-
fected, so Rev. II. W. Swartz, M. D., Superintendent of the

HOTEL CENTRAL, TOKIO

Methodist Episcopal Church in Yokohama, with Brother
Iwasaki, of the American Bible House, could meet us at the
wharf, and they did us much kindness in securing proper por-
ters; also with the assistance of Sisters Poole and Williams, due
explanations made to the Japanese government officials, that our
missionaries for Japan had only personal effects with them, and

24 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

that 1 was only going- through, so all of our baggage was passed
through the customs house without opening for inspection, to
its destination, Fukuchiyama, and the excess bagg-age without
the payment of duty, for which we were very thankful to that
g-ovemment, and praised our dear Lord for His manifold
blessings.

By the thoug:htful courtesy of Doctor Swartz and Brother
Iwasaki, we were permitted to make the Bible House a kind of
headquarters while in Yokohama, after having: made arrange-
ments for our goods to remain in that port until the Japanese
New Year expired, their celebration lasting five days, or till
after January 6th. Having refreshed the outer man with a
good lunch, served American style, we made arrangements to
proceed to Tokyo, the capital city of Ja])an, a distance of about
twenty-eig-ht miles. Arriving: there, we availed ourselves of the
common mode of conveyance, the jinrikisha, and were carried to
Hotel Central, a house run in the interest of Americans and
Europeans, where we remained throughout our stay at Tokyo,
the cost per day being five yen, about $2.50 American money,
a price corresponding with those in this country for same ac-
commodations.

Having: made arrangements for our temporary home over
the Sabbath, some of the missionary party visited a portion of
the capital city. The point of central interest visited at this
time was the Temple of Asakusa. This is probably one of
the most noted temples of all Japan. The writer, by personal
observation, was soon convinced that not all of Japan is yet
evangelized, for he saw some ten or twelve thousand
persons worship at this altar every hour in the day, and the
stream was continually coming and going. The priest in-
formed us that there were ten million Japanese who w^orshiped
this one god alone. It would be no exaggeration to say that
at least fifty thousand people worshiped at the temple daily,
especially during this holiday season. The whole of Saturday
was taken up with visiting interesting parts of this great city.
Among the places of note seen, we may mention the Uyeno and
Imperial Park, the site of the royal residences, where several of
the princes were seen riding in their automobiles; also many
army officers in the jinrikisha. We also inspected some of tlie

JAPAN 25

department and silk stores, and later in the day went to Asa-
kusa Park and temple, where the stream of worshipers continued
to come and go as on the day previous. No person can remain
in this city visiting- from shrine to shrine, without becoming
convinced of the necessity for missionary work in this great and
growing capital of the Japanese Empire.

Perhaps the most interesting place we saw during the
day was the Central Mission of the Oriental Missionary Society,
which is located on Ogawamachi Street, a most advantageous
site, being accessible by electric car service, also being in
the central part of this thickly-populated metropolis of more
than one and a half million inhabitants. We noticed that their
building was well constructed of good material, and in addition
to a Book Department, there is a room on the first floor where the
congregation meet, in which we attended service on Sunday, Jan-
uary 4th. This was a delightful day. The air was clear but cold,
and the ground was frozen quite hard. Having been granted
the privilege of conducting family worship in the parlor of the
hotel, after a refreshing season of jDrayer and praise, our
party started out to find the Cowman and Kilbourne Bible
school and church After about an hour's ride, we came to
Kashiwagi, Yodobashimachi, a city of twenty thousand people,
in which the Oriental Missionary Society have their headquar-
ters, with Bible school and church, the result of nine years' hard
work for the Master.

After service. Brother Kilbourne and his wife insisted upon
our party taking dinner with them, which we enjoyed very much
indeed, and were much refreshed in body and soul. After dinner,
we accompanied Brother Kilbourne and a large number of the
workers to the Japanese Methodist Episcopal church in Tokyo.
This church is situated in a fine part of the city proper.
By invitation the writer preached, with the aid of dear Brother
Susao acting as interpreter. He is an excellent interpreter,
and a man filled with the Holy Spirit. There were about two
hundred persons present at this meeting, most of whom were con-
verted people. The church property belonged to the Methodist
Episcopal denomination, but at this time was without a pastor.
Evangelist Nakada followed with a stirring exhortation in keep-
ing with the sermon of the hour, and as a result about thirty-five

26 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

persons eanie to the altar. Twenty-five of these were seeking
a clean heart, or entire sanctification, and the other ten for
converting- grace. Both raen and women were very earnest
seekers ; some were very happy and came out laughing and crying ;
others left the altar before getting the blessing. It was a time
of great rejoicing, many being blessed of the Spirit. My own
soul was much refreshed while preaching, and indeed during
the entire service. At night our party went to the Central
Mission of the Oriental Missionary Society, with a number
of workers from the Bible school. We enjoyed the meeting
from, beginning to end. They have a band for street meetings,
and their singing, praying and shouting was very similar to
meetings of the same character in our own country, reminding
me very much of the old-time "revival meetings,'' and those
of the present Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene. The ser-
mon was about Zaccheus.

Brother Nakada gave the exhortation, and the altar was soon
lined with earnest seekers after both works of grace. The
Oriental Society has four missions and one church in Tokyo, all
in active service, and meeting every Sunday. They also have
Sunday schools in other parts of the city, and are making plans
for extending the work as well as trying to place a portion of
the Word of God in every home in Japan. Last year they dis-
tributed thirty million pages of their literature, including por-
tions of the Scripture.

. Our party had now been r<?duced to the missionaries for
Japan and the writer, the others having returned to Yokohaina,
resumed their journey to their respective fields of labor in
China and India. We spent part of this day in visiting the
Methodist Episcopal Bible House, supposed to be the best in
Ja])an, after which we made the rounds of a few stores. We
then returned to Yokohama to complete the arrangements for
our Fukuchiyama trip, the one place in Japan of greatest in-
terest to us at that time. On arrival at Yokohama, however,
we found we would not be able to transact any business
until the following day, as they were still in their T^ew
Year's festivities. We had hoped to have left Yokohama
by Tuesday, January 0th, but the entire day was occupied in
getting the baggage and missionary freight out of the customs

JAPAN

27

house, and making- arrangements for its shipment, thus com-
pelling us to remain in this city until Wednesday. We were
disappointed in having to give so much of our time to business,
being thus deprived of an opportunity to visit the many places
of interest in this ' historic city. However, we did find time
to view one or two churches.

Wednesday morning was a busy time with our missionary
party, all of them having arisen at an early hour. Breakfast
being over, we were loaded into the jinrikisha and conveyed

ONP] OF JAPAN'S IKON HORSES

to the Imperial Government Railway Depot. Here we re-
ceived much attention from our good brother Iwasaki, who met
us at the station and assisted us greatly, arranging for our
tickets and transportation of baggage. This is a modernized
railway, well equipped, and quite in keeping with our modern
railway institutions in America.

Notwithstanding all the time spent the day before in trying
to arrange the forwarding of our freight and baggage so as to
have it on hand for the early south bound train, much of our
heavy goods had not arrived. We decided to travel first class,
which allowed each person 133 pounds of baggage, thus aiding

28 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

us in taking all our hand luggage and a part of the heavier goods
on the train with us.

We were disappointed in not being able to view the beau-
tiful landscape as we passed through, but the early day was
rainy, and the mist hid the scene from our eyes. After awhile,
however, the clouds began to lift, by noon it was quite clear,
and many charming bits of coast and later the valley views
inland were a source of constant delight. There were beautiful
streams rushing merrily through rocky channels, neat little
villages nestling here and there, the thrifty little farms, the
distant mountain ranges over which played the lights, now-
purple, now gold, now white, and the dark screen of the pines
tossing their heads before them. Climbing far up the foothills
were the tea gardens, furnishing a product of world-wide in-
terest. The valley here became much wider, and occasionally
stretched out for a long distance, all in a high state of culti-
vation, showing how the Japanese are pressed for land. Of course
the characteristic villages were dotting the land here and there.
Rice and vegetables seem to be the principal crops. We also
passed some large cities on the way, and in one of these I counted
twenty factory chimneys — probably the manufacturing centers
of silks, cotton, and woolen goods. Frequently, too, we would
see some heavily fruited orange trees. The cost of the trip was
thirteen yen, or about $6.50 in American money — that is two
cents a mile. We had a good car, and almost to ourselves the
entire way. We enjoyed a good, family lunch together, for
which we made arrangements on the previous day; but we de-
cided to take our dinners in the diner to see how it contrasted
with our service in America. It was creditable meal and cost us
about seventy-five cents in American money. We had to pass
through Kyoto, the old capital of this ancient empire, but as
there were only two minutes in which to make connection with
our local train, we had no time to see any of the city. The first
class cars on our train down from Yokohama to this point, com-
pared very favorably with our American coaches, with the ex-
ception that the seats run lengthwise. The dining room, too,
was nicely fitted up, and the service good indeed. But the little
train to which we now transferred was far from equal to our
American trains. We were hustled into a little apartment

JAPAN

29

with a sheet iron eharcoal stove, which was on the floor, and
in which the fire verj^ soon went out. This little stove was
about one yard long, six inches high, and ten inches wide. The
lights were also now extingiiished, but as it was one of Japan's
beautiful and noted moonlight nights, the car being now^ dark-
ened, we could enjoy the scenery much better than before. We
got another fine view after we left the seashore.

Xow we passed farther inland, and behind the mountains
which bar the genial influence of the Kuro Sivo, the great
Japanese, warm, ocean current, so that the weather became ciuitt;
wintry. There were no more oranges to view, but instead, snow-
in many places. When we arrived in Fukuchiyama, it was
<iuite stormy winter weather.

Finally we had reached the station where we were met
by the missionaries, much to our own as well as Sister Snider's
joy, and though it was midnight when we reached our destina-
tion, it was a time of nriuch rejoicing. Our Superintendent,
Sister Cora G. Snider, had been long looking forward to our
coming with re-enforcements, and so it was especially a time
of weeping and rejoicing for her because of the former church
and school relations she had had with Brother and Sister Hum-
phrey in California, as well as their mutual interest in the work
for which he was now come. The weepings, smilings, rejoicings,
and welcomings over, we soon had our baggage loaded, and, get-
ting into the jinrikishas were on our way and finally reached our
long desired haven, the mission home, where we were served with
delicious refreshments. Then, notwithstanding the lateness of
the hour, we gathered about the stove, and related some of the
many experiences had on the way, also talked with Sister
Snider of her work at the mission, and how the Lord had
blessed her labors there. Finally, all joining with Brother
Humphrey in reading of the Scripture, prayer, and thanksgiv-
ing, we then retired for a few hours of much needed rest.

When we awakened Thursday morning, it was snowing
quite hard, and evidently had been for sometime, as there was
a blanket of six inches in depth over the ground. The sun,
though, soon came out from behind the clouds, and made the
towns, cities, and fields a scene of beauty. It reminded the
writer of the scenes in Vermont where he spent so many years

30

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

of his early married life. This first day in our mission home
was spent largely in a fellowship meeting. Our Japanese mis-
sionary. Brother Nagamatsu, and his wife, came in and en-
joyed a good portion of it with us; then, later in the day, this
kind brother showed us about the city of Fukuchiyama. This
is a place of ten or twelve thousand inhabitants. The picture
gives a view of a portion of the city.

MISSIONARY HOME, FUKUCHIYAMA

The accompanying picture shows the mission home, and
grouped in front of it may be seen the missionaries and some
of the students. From left to right are, Superintendent Cora
G. Snider, Miss Lillian Poole, Mrs. L. H. Humphrey, Brother
L. H. Humphrey, successor to Sister Snider in the superin-
tendency, then the writer, in the first row ; Miss Lulu Williams,
Mrs. Nagamatsu, Rev. I. N"agamatsu, Student Namba-San,
and Student Tanaka-San, in the second row.

A view is given of the north end of the lumie, and the
windows showing here are those which furnish light for Sister

JAPAN

31

Snider's study, and a lilimpse of this room with Sister Snider
at her desk, is shown in the other picture.

At night all attended services at Mission Hall, receiving a
very earnest message full of power from Brother Nagamatsu,
and each of us felt the blessing of the Lord.

END VIEW MISSION HOME,
FUKUCHIYAMA

Friday, the second day of onr stay at the mission head-
quarters, the writer was requested to conduct the family prayers
and chapel ser\nces combined, in connection with our Bible
Training School. This school now had but two students, the
work being carried on by Sister Snider and Brother Naga-
matsu as teachers. This was a delightful hour to all of us —

32

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Brother Nagamatsu interpretino- — then, there was singing
and prayers by the missionaries, and the altar meeting, when
one of the students, Namba-San, who may be seen in the group
before the mission house, became wholly sanctified. The little
Japanese cook of Sister Snider, who had been converted some
months . previously, also was sanctifiod. She is a bright,
intelligent, little woman, and since her dedication to the Lord
has proved invaluable to Sister Snider in many ways, taking
all the responsibility of the domestic duties, marketing, errands,
etc., all of which she does very competently and in a most cheer-

Miss SNIDEK IN HER OFFICE

ful spirit. She also not infrequently aids Sister Snider by
acting as interpreter. Altogether, she is a faithful hand-
maiden of the Lord, clearly demonstrating her spiritual re-
generation through the grace of God, which affects every jxir-
taker alike, regardless of race or sex. For with God there is no
respect of persons (Romans 2:11).

By reference to the map of the Japanese Empire, it may
be readily seen that our mission at Fukuchiyama is very cen-
trally located. This I consider quite Providential, for if we
are to accomplish a thorough and lasting work in the Empire,
it is most essential that we endeavor to reach the influential

JAPAN

83

centers of Japan, these beinjj: Tokyo and Yokohania in the north,
Kumamento and J^agasaka in the south, and Kyoto, Kobe, and
Osaka in the central portion. From these important points we
should be able to reach out in every direction.

Fuknchiyama is a .2:ood location for a strong center, among

MISS SNIDER'S COOK

a large number of surrounding villages, yet it would not be a
good center in which to locate permanent headquarters for
the whole Empire. While it is a good sized country city, its
population does not exceed twelve thousand, and it would not
be adapted for headquarters.

While Fukuehiyama has good government schools, a gov-

34

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

ernment hospital, with postoiRce and telegraph facilities, and
two railroads, it is yet not considered an np-to-date banking
place, nor place for the purchase of such foodstuffs as the
missionary is obliged to have for the first year or two. There
being a military camp located here, it is an expensive place in
which to live, as much of the food necessary for the foreigner's
use must be ordered from Kobe, Osaka, or Yokohama, and to
the cost for the product itself must be added the transporta-
tion charge, to say nothing of the inconvenience of having to
wait a long time for the goods, and the further delay incident
to express by human motor power, as nearly all the drayage

EXPRESS DELIVERY, FUKUCHIYAMA

in Japan is carried by human, instead of horse or mechanical
power, except in the larger and seaport cities.

The fact that rents are cheap, makes it a favorable place
for a good station in which we can build a strong center, and
out of which we shall be able to reach many villages. For
illustration, by standing on one of the higher points com-
manding the view, one sees the valley well dotted with many
thrifty little villages. By maintaining Sunday schools and

JAPAN 35

preiu'liiiiii' phu'i's in tlii'sc various towns, fvoiii <uit of Fukiiclii-
yaina, tlioy will all in their ti.n-n heconio fcodors to furnish
students for onr Bible Training' School, as well as members
for our church.

We have a good building in Fukuchiyama for our kind of
work, located on one of the best paved and most fre'quented
thoroughfares in the city, constructed of the best material,
and so arranged on the inside that we can use it for Sundfiy
school, evangelistic, or kindergarten work, and if necessary for
school work of various kinds. Should it be deemed advisable,
the upper part could be fitted up at a nominal expense, either
for Bible students, or for a Japanese worker^s family. The
rent for this building is only about fourteen yen, or $7.00
American money, a month.

The building proper is about thirty feet square, and the
smaller adjoining rooms give us an additional space of
tw^enty-nine feet square. We have one-half of this room
seated with benches, a small raised platform, pulpit, and organ.
The other half is fitted up as two Sunday school rooms, and
for inquirers. When we hold meetings, it is possible to
throw these several apartments all into one room, the parti-
tions being only of light wood, covered with paper, this is
easily done, thus giving us a capacity for seating about two
hundred and fifty persons. The place which is provided with
benches has a cem^ent floor, so that persons sitting there do n';t
have to remove their sandals or shoes. There are also nised
platforms to the left of the pulpit with braided mats, and, of
course, persons occupying these places remove their sandals.
This part is not furnished with chairs, so that all have to sit
on their feet, after the native Japanese custom. This method
of seating makes it possible to provide room for a good many
more peox)le than could be done if all were seated on chairs.

The ability to separate the groups easily and quickly in the
after-meetings is of considerable advantage to the work (and
it must be done separately, if it succeeds at all). The men
would take one part of the room, while the women quietly with-
drew with Sister Snider to another, for personal conversation
and instruction. When the remarks w^ere suited for both men
and women, they could all hear them.

Group — Right to Left: Dr. Reynolds. Miss Snider, Supt. Humphrey,
Mrs. Humphrey, Lulu Williams Lillian Pool, Rev. Nagamatsu,
native v^orker.

THE MISSION HOME

Sister Snider, Brother Humphrey's predecessor in the super-
intendency in the work here, was wonderfullly successful in
obtaining such a good building, so favorably located and well
adapted for use as our mission home, at the very nominal
monthly rental of fourteen yen, or $7.00 American money.

During our ten days' stay in Fukuchiyama, a series of
special meetings were held in our mission hall.

36

JAPAN 37

111 front of the hall arc, standing-, Tanaka-Saii, a Bible
colporteur and student; the Rev. Nagamatsu, Miss Lillian Poole,
Miss Lulu Williams, Mrs. L. H. Humphrey, Rev. L. H. Hum-
phrey, successor to Sister Cora G. Snider in the superintend-
ency, she being the seventh person in the group, then the writer
standing next to her. Mrs. Nagamatsu was not able to be
present at the time this picture was taken, and another student,
ISTamba-San, was absent distributing literature advertising the
meetings. These handbills announcing the revival meetings
had been prepared by Brother ISTagamatsu and freely distributed
in the city. Occasionally the Bible students went out on the
street with drums, and thus interested many, who came for the
first time to these Christian gatherings. Many of these also
remained for the special instruction after the sermon, and
g-ave clear evidence that the Gospel message they had heard
was taking hold upon their hearts, though they said it all seemed
very strange to them, as they had never before listened to such
teaching's. This seems incredible to us who have so long
rested in the light and peace, the power and knowledge of our
blessed Master. If ever these glad tidings are to be known abroad
as here in America, it must be now, and througrh the conse-
cration of men and women to this work we are here under-
taking in Japan. We meet somx- opposition from the local
temple priests, who go through the country circulating literature
with misstatements that are calculated to keep the Japanese
from attending these services. However, by faithfully con-
tinuing our labors of love, we are overcoming these difficulties
one by one, and winning the confidence of the Japanese, who
come in continually increasing numbers, and manifest more
and more interest, for which we give praise and thanks to our
Heavenly Father. In Fukuchiyama, there are also about fifty
priests of the various shrines, who are not a little exercised
lest we should gain an influence and win their people from idol
worship. These have even gone so far as to take the matter up
with the police, trying to enlist their interference. Failing
in that, they take up drums and go about with a noise and
clamor trying to sow distrust of the missionaries. But God's
truth will surely triumph.

During these special services, arrangements were made to

88

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

hold two meetings each week-day night, the first beginning at
0 :30 p. m. for Japanese children, every service being largely
attended by an interested and attentive company of from
one hundred and fifty to two hundred, as you may judge from
the accompanying picture.

As these meetings progressed the attendance of the children
increased, and at timx-s it was with the greatest difficulty we
could arrange to accommodae all who desired to be present.
Sisters Nagamatsu, Williams, and Poole rendered most excel-

CHILDKEN'S MEETING, FUKUCHIYAMA

lent assistance in the songs of these childrens' gatherings.
The words printed in large type would be suspended before the
blackboard and taug'ht with the melody to these little folks,
g-reatly to their delight. Surprising to relate, they would re-
turn next d: y with both words and music committed to memory.
Brother Xagamatsu also seemed at his very best when preach-
ing or interpreting to a large class of them.

On account of the limitations of our mission hall, as well
as the large numbers of adults attending the special services,
we were obliged to insist on all the children passing out before

JAPAN 39

taking up the later session for the older people. This was a
very hard task, I assure yovi, for we had every reason to believe
a goodly number of these children were receiving the Light,
and some of them without the least shadow of a doubt, were
genuinely converted. The children, however, took their turn
goodnaturedly, but frequently if the adult congregation was
not prompt in arriving they would rush back to their places
and remain to the later assembly. This revival was carried
on in a manner similar to those held in this country; generally
the first half or three-quarters of an hour being devoted to a
song and praise ser\ace, occasionally interspersed with personal
testimonies. Sister Nagamatsu presided at the organ in all
these services, and Brother JSTagamatsu acted as interpreter
whenever Brother Humphrey, Sister Snider, or the writer
was speaking or exhorting. Sisters Poole and Williams, hav-
ing spent some five years in Japan previous to this time, were,
of course, able to conduct their meetings independent of an
interpreter. All the meetings were well attended, and quite a
number remained to the after services — probably froni twenty-
five to fifty — generally averaging one-third women and two-
thirds men. It is so natural for the evangelist in special work
to want to tabulate the results of such meetings, and whether
it is the best way or not, it has become so customary a practice
in America, as well as in foreign lands, it might not be out of
place to state that according to the judgment of Sister Snider,
Brother Nagamatsu, and others, there were from twenty to
twenty-five clear cases of regenerating grace, and perhaps twenty
persons gave evidence of being wholly sanctified. Among then^i
we m.ay mention an army officer who was saved, and later in
the meeting became wholly sanctified. Another officer who had
been converted in a former meeting, also sought and found
the blessing of entire sanctification. A leading baker of the
city came out very clear in his experience of receiving the
second blessing, and was of much service during the meetings
in helping others to seek the Lord. One or two merchants
were saved, and one or more members of the police force.
Quite a number of the women tc-achers in the public high schools
were among the earnest seekers during these meetings, besides
many other adults, all of them prominent and influential in

40 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

the city, as ex-mayor, judge, etc. It was very encouraging
some months hiter to receive letters from Brother Humphrey
and Brother Nagamatsu stating that they thought all who were
forward in claiming to have received the grace of the Lord
during this service had continued steadfast, and a number of
them had been baptized and admitted to fellowship in our
church at Fukuchiyama. I am sure that the reader will rejoice
to know that the grace of God was with us, and gave us such
an interesting and fruitful meeting with adults. I am sure
they will also be interested to learn something about our
Sunday school work that is being carried on in Fukuchiyama.
We had two Sunday schools, which I visited, both in chTro:e
of Brother I^agamatsu, one held in the mission home at 9 :00
a. m., numbering a total of seventy boys and girls, divided into
four classes, as follows :

Sister jSTagamatsu's class of 27 girls, ranging in age
from eight to fourteen years.

The class of Tanaka-San consisted of 19 boys and
girls, ranging in ago from four to eight years.

Brother Nagamatsu's class of 12 boys, from four to
twelve years of age.

Brother Namba-San's class of 8, ages ranging from
fourteen to fifteen years.

This, as well as all the sessions of the Sunday school, was of
great interest. While the writer could not understand the in-
struction, or the scholars' replies to their teachers, yet he
could see by the interest shown that they were very much
taken up with the singing and studying of the lesson. When
it came to the review, the entire school replied to Brother
Nagamatsu's questions very promptly.

The second Sunday school m.eeting was held at our mission
hall at 2 :30 p. m., about one hundred and forty scholars being
present. This was an exceedingly interesting school, and the
facilities with which to conduct it were much more favorable
than in the previous school at the mission home.

Sunday, January 18th, was quite stormy, and some four
iches of snow fell in the morning. It was specially gratifying
to the writer to notice that although the children still wore

JAPAN 41

wooden sandals, the heavy snowfall did not hinder them from
attending Sunday school, for the usual number of boys and
girls were out at the home and on time for Sunday school.
This was also true of the afternoon Sunday school at Mission
Hall, when the streets were full of slush, and in a most dis-
agi'eeable condition. The snow having ceased and the sun
appearing, the weather was much warmer, and the wallas were
covered with melting snow. Nevertheless, these bright-eyed
children were all on time. The total attendance was about
two hundred. I feel this is a rebuke to many of our so-called
Christians in the homeland, who can not go to church regularly
unless everything is very favorable. In addition to the regular
church and Sunday school work, Sister Snider conducted a Bible
class, and had a very interesting lot of youths in regular attend-
ance. There were soldiers, teachers, and students to whom she
teaches English. At the session we were permitted to attend, she
gave instructions on the eighth chapter of Matthew, which
she presented in an exceedingly instructive and helpful man-
ner, the Japanese giving the closest attention. Sister Snider
sought to make the class of special interest, and in addition
to the reading and exposition of the Word, dwelt upon some
of the doctrines em.phasized by the Pentecostal Church of
the Nazarene.

The writer very much regretted that he had no time
to visit the various villages around Fukuchiyama, ten or twelve
of which could be seen, ranging from a half to three miles in
distance. Our Bible students compass nearly all the villages
in about two days, and their reports are very encouraging.
In nearly every village they had found those who were in-
terested. Some were quite anxious that our missionaries
should come and start Sunday schools as well as day schools;
more especially, however, entreating that they might have
a school where they could hear the Word of God read
and expounded. They also brought us the information that
in nearly every village a native house could be rented at about
$2.00 per month, which could be used for Sunday school, or
preaching, or teaching, or any kind of work the missionary
desired. You will at once see the wonderful opportunity
that is before, us in this country of Japan. By start-

42

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

ing- ten or twelve more Sunday schools, the missionaries
would be able to carry on work in the entire surrounding
country. I think a native worker and room for Sunday
school could be su^oported at about $12.00 per month, or $150.00
per annum. Any person feeling led of the Lord to undertake
such a work could not only give substantial aid in establishing
such a Sunday school, and take care of it for years, but could
also make it possible to open up a preaching place where the
missionary might go once or twice a week, or as frequently
as opportunity offered, and hold a series of evangelistic meet-

FUKUCHIYAMA, JAPAN

ings to spread the Gospel in all the surrounding country. Thus
we would secure students for our Bible Training School, and
members for our central church work. Which of you feels
that the Lord will be pleased to have you undertake such a
work? Should there be such an one, let him correspond with
the writer for particulars reg-arding the matter.

Had there been more time, the writer would have been
glad to have visited some of the larger and more distant
villages and cities, for there were a number of them within a
radius of fifteen or twenty miles easily accessi.ble by the rail-

JAPAN 43

ways above mentioned. If one is willing to travel — as most
of the missionaries do and as the writer did — second or third
class, you can make these trips at about one cent per mile, or
at a total cost of about thirty or forty cents a visit.

x\s delightful as was the evangelistic work, the Sunday
school, and Bible Training class, we were necessarily obliged
to spend much time in discussing the problems connected with
our new work in Japan. There were questions to be considered
demanding not only prayerful but a most thoughtful and
painstaking deliberation. Consequently, every day except Sun-
day found the missionaries with the writer in from one to two
of these sessions, the same being always opened by prayer and
the reading of the Word of God. It was no ordinary occasion,
such as the assembling of recruits, to encourage, re-enforce and
stimulate the heart and efforts of our Superintendent, Sister
Snider, and Brother and Sister jSTagamatsu, neither was it
just simply a falling into line and to work under her plans
which had been wrought out after much prayer; but because of
the enforced furlough she was obliged to take, it meant when
she left the field that the new missionaries would have to
take up the work where she would lay it down. Sister Snider had
not only been devoting all her time and strength to the work
she loved so much, and in which God had so marvclously
blessed her labors, both in helping her to secure such appro-
priate buildings for our Mission Hall and home, and winning
the confidence of the people, also in the opportunity she en-
joyed for teaching, studying and visiting the people in the
city and surrounding country and villages, but He had helped
her to do this for m.any months under great physical disad-
vantages, her health having been most seriously affected by
the influence of the sun. God had also been especially good
in raising up such a dear friend in Dr. H. W. Swartz, Super-
intendent of the Methodist Episcopal work in Yokohama, who
has for thirty years been their medical missionary in Japan.
He is also thoroughly conversant with the Japanese climate
and its effect on European and American people. This emi-
nent man was not only able, but willing to render Sister Snider
most .skillful service, no doubt by the blessing of God, but

44 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

ho insisted that in order for her to recover her health, also
if she were ever to return to Japan and resume her work for
the Master, it was imperative that she leave there for a while
at least. We therefore found the work devolving upon us
was one of grave significance, and we were constantly occupied
in assisting her to dispose of matters vital to the adjustment
of the work for the new Superintendent, Brother Humphrey,
and his missionary associates, also in planning and arranging
for her early return home, as well as outlining with our
Brother Superintendent the policies to be pursued by them for
the advancement of future interests in this great island
empire.

Our time being limited, and so filled with these important
duties, we did not have much opportunity for social functions,
but we would mention one or two enjoyable occasions in which
we were permitted to share.

First, there was a ver;^^ happy afternoon spent in the delight-
ful home of Brother and Sister Nagamatsu, where we were
to take our first Japanese meal, or nikunaba. We ate with
chopsticks, and had a most delightful time, notwithstanding
we had the painful experience of sitting on our feet on the
floor while we ate. Through the courtesy of Sister Snider, we
also enjoyed a portion of an afternoon, where we were served
a most delightful dinner, with Prof. Royal H. Sink, formerly
of Lexington, N. C, U. S. A., now in charge of the govern-
ment chair of English, who makes his headquarters at Fuku-
chiyama, and who, with our missionaries, comprise the foreign
settlement of that city.

It seems desirable that with all of our stations, we should
arrange for a mission in some elevated part of the coun-
try where we are doing missionary work, which we can
use as a health-resort, or retreat, for our missionaries during
the hot season. Such an arrangem.ent, we believe, would not
only protect their health, but would prolong the period of
their usefulness, possibly preventing an early return home.
With this thought in view, we took an early train, in company
with Brother and Sister Humphrey, and Miss Snider, leaving
Fukuchiyama at about 6 :30 a. m. and getting off at Sanda,
a city of about ten thousand inhabitants, Avith not a mis-

JAPAN 45

sion of any kind in it, forty-five miles distant from Fukuchi-
yama. From there we went up the mountain to Arima, at an
elevation of 4,000 feet, being carried thence by the jinrikishas,
and passed through several villages as we made the ascent.
Sunday schools could doubtless be started in every one of these
villages, and carried on by a mission in Sanda. Much good
could also bo done by giving tracts and holding street meet-
ings, through the agency of the missionaries going up and down
from Arima. It is a most feasible site for a health-resort in
the hot season. Indeed, Arima was for a number of years a
noted svimmer resort, though the rich class now go elsewhere.

ARIMA, .JAPAN

It costs sixty-five sen, or thirty -three cents to be taken up in
a 'rickisha.

Arima, a town of about five thousand i3eople, I should judge,
is picturesquely situated on the mountain side.

One sees from this height the many Japanese farm houses be-
low. You will see in the picture of the one given, that it is Mon-
day, and washday, as the clothes and tubs arc plainly in view, but
the housewife, true to her woman's trait, has made a hasty
retreat back of the fence, not wishing to be seen in such
unpresentable guise.

4(5

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

The low, moist land of the valley is especially adapted to rice
culture. It is one of the principal industries of the valley people.
We had a good view of one of their automatic rice mills, run
by water power. It is typical of many similar structures in
the same region, lining the banks of the rapid little streams
racing down the mountain side.

This seemed to be not only a. practicable, but a most delightful
place for us to establish a mission and health resort at some
future time. The beauty and desirability of the city for such
a purpose may be judged in a measure by the pictures given.

NATIVE HOME, ARIMA

The rustic bridge is one crossed going from Sanda en route
to the town.

The pictures given are of views one enjoys passing over the
six-mile trail to Namaze, through a very rugged and beautiful
scenery. It reminded me of the Vermont mountains, though
of course these in Japan are not so high. The fare from Arima
to Namaze is seventy-five sen, or about thirty-eight cents in
American money.

At this station the trainmen showed us great kindness, wait-
ing ten minutes for us to get our tickets and baggage chocks,
we having been detained on account of the snowfall making the

BRIDGE, ENTERING ARIMA

SCENES EN ROUTE FROM ARIMA TO NAMAZO

47

48

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

nioimtain road slippery and mudd5\ We now passed througli
Jvobe, the second largest city in Japan, and arrived at Shioya,
whore, through the courtesy of Sister Snider, in correspond-
ence, we were invited by Rev. Berkley F. Buxton, chairman
and superintendent of the Japanese Evangelistic Band, to at-
tend a four days' Holy Convocation, with free entertainment
for our party. We were met at the station by Brother Buxton
and a number of other saints, conducted to the Shioya Hotel,
and assigned to a pleasant room luith a stove in it. Supper
was served at 6 :i5. At T :30 the meeting was opened by Rev.
Buxton making a few remarks, followed by singing, reading

m' \

IPP |=lifl

fpa^

HOLINESS CONVENTION AT SHIOYA

of the Word, and prayer. About twenty-six out of the forty
missionaries invited were present at this convention, and are
seen in the picture given.

This was a Holiness Convention, only such as seemed to be
in sympathy with the second definite worl- of grace being in-
vited. Brother Buxton's object was that by bringing us to-
gether in the convention, a deeper fellowship and closer unity
might result, through the power of prayer and hearing of the
Word and guidance of the Spirit, and that we might obtain
a greater measure of the Holy Spirit. It was much to our

JAPAN 49

rcg-ret that we were unable to remain for the close of this
convocation, enjoying- the very generous hospitality of Brother
Buxton, as well as the sweet and profitable fellowship of these
precious saints, representing- the several departments of Chris-
tian endeavor to carry forward the Lord's work. At the end
of the third day we were compelled, on account of limited time,
to bid farewell to this com.panj' of delightful workers, and
resume our trip. It may be of interest to you to know that
the writer was several times invited to share in the public
ministry of the Word during the convention.

Our party arrived in Kyoto about 5 :00 p. m., where, by
thoughtful arrangements of Miss Snider, we were entertained
at the parsonage of Brother R. P. Garbold. Superintendent of
the Presbyterian missions in Kyoto. Misses Poole and Will-
iams, who met us here, had found good accommodations at
one of the Japanese hotels.

Kyoto is about tvv'o hours' ride on the train from Osaka,
and three hours from Kobe, which is the second largest city
of the Sunrise Kingdom in population, and the seaport for
Kyoto. It is also about three and a half houj's' ride to Puku-
chiyama, our other mission station.

It is an established financial banking center, and is the pivot
of all Imperial and great social functions, as well as being the
leading and central city for heathen and idolatrous religions
and customs.

After being refreshed by the bountiful repast and sweet
fellowship of the saints, Brother Garbold kindly showed us
about the town, enabling us to visit three of the missions which
were holding services. Brother Garbold kindly offered his
services again on the second day, but before we were hardly
under way he learned of the arrival of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs.
Zierbogal, who were on their way to Pretoria, South Africa,
and were depending upon him to assist them. Upon being
informed of the situation, we gladly resigned our privilege to
them. However, we were fortunate in having with us Brother
Nagamatsu, who had arrived by an earlier train from Fuku-
chiyama. Sisters Poole and Williams were also in our party,
both being familiar with the citj', and they severally assumed
the role of guide.

50

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Notwithstanding it was raining-, we spent the entire day
visiting a number of the points of special interest from a mis-
sionary viewpoint.

The great need for a holiness ivork made manifest. Among
other important places visited during the day was ' the
Japanese temple, reputed to have cost thirty million yen, or
about fifteen million dollars in American money. There are
ninety-six pillars in this temi^le, each made from a trunk of
a single giant tree, each pillar measuring twenty-four feet in
length by three feet in diameter. These huge pilhirs were
cut out on the distant mountains, and because there was no

1

• -Sri

' .W

p^«

.r

-.^^■' ' m

— .

*' «» ■

HEALTH GOD, KYOTO

material strong enough out of which to manufacture ropes for
conveying them from thence and hoisting them into place in
the temple, the priests requested all the Japanese women
under thirty years of age to cut oft' their hair for that purj^ose.
There, heaped in thirty-two great piles, are the coils of rope,
each tM'O hundi-ed and twenty-eight feet in length, and more
than three inches in diameter, the strands of hair as black as
they were the day they were shorn from the heads of the
Japanese maidens.

Another impressive fact is, that the people not only gave

JAPAN 51

the thirty million yen to build this great temple, but they have
g-iven proportionately for its maintenance and upkeep ever since.
The inference is inevitable that with all their dcvoutness and
civic pride, when once the Japanese are converted to Chris-
tianity they will, of their own accord, contribute to the Gospel
missions and churches, and be entirely self-supporting. There
are probably more than twenty such temples in this one city
alone.

In the accompanying picture may be seen the stone image
of the God of Healtli, sitting in a great chair. There are also
numerous idols in connection with many other temples, as
noted as this one, with gods multiplied by the thousand, and
devotees thousands times thousands come from the city and sur-
rounding country districts to prostrate themselves and worship
and pray to same. In the homag-e paid to this God of Healtli,
it is customary for them to touch that part of it which
corresponds to their own afflicted member. If a foot be affected,
then it is the foot of the god they rub. If a shoulder, it is
his shoulder they touch. The number of worshipers may be
judged by the fact that so many hands have touched the feet
and shoulders of the god there is scarcely a trace of these re-
maining. So nearly have they been worn away by the constant
rubbing, that new gods will have to bo made or purchased to re-
place the worn-out idols. It does not require much exercise of the
imagination for the reader to realize the number of people
who have bowed down to an image of stone, which seeth not,
neither heareth prayer nor hath power to bless.

Looking at the picture again and through the doorway of
the temple one sees a box — there are many such — varying- from
throe to ten feet in leng-th by three feet in heig-ht and two
and a half feet in width, placed on the second step, where the
doors have been folded back, as it were. If you could enter into
the temple, as did the writer, /ou would see yet other similar
boxes, probably a little larger and somewhat beyond each other
in the series and nearer the idol. You will ask "why so many
boxes ?" We answer, they are solely for the purpose of receiving
the offerings. The boxes are of very strong construction, the
tops made of slats and so adjusted that any two slats meeting
form an angle leaving a space about two inches wide. As said

52

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

before, these are for the gifts of money. The idea is that so
many people come to pay tribute to this god, they can not all
approach the treasure box inside the temple, and so pressing up
the steps to the second box they cast their tribute into the slats
which let it slide into the receptacle below. When this space
fills with worshipers, the later comers cast their gifts in the
same manner into the outer boxes. Still on the human tide
flows, growing more and more dense. Now look again, and
note the windows on three sides and to the left of the folding
doors. Behind these is a little room where the priests sit and
watch the gifts as they are deposited by the people As many

GOD OF CHILDREN, KYOTO

as ten or twelve tJiousand people worship every hour, and some-
times they keep up this work for eight or ten hours, and, on holi-
days, until ten or eleven at night. One can easily estimate the
millions who bow down to this one idol alone. The writer, after
this visit, could but meditate upon the devoutness and liberality
of the Japanese in supporting these gods of stone. If they
could give so generously to a god which neither seeth nor
heareth them, and who can give them nothing at all in return,
how much more ought we in Christian lands — blessed of a true
and living God — how much more ought we to give! Is it not
to our reproach that we are so often lacking in liberality or a

JAPAN 53

benevolent spirit, when we have a just and merciful Father who
heareth and answereth our prayers? In the picture, one also
notes an image of this idol, which is but one of countless others
like it, and all of which are hewn out of stone.

In an accompanying picture we have other idols called the
Gods of Children. The writer did not have time to go into
this part of the groat temple, but feels it is no exaggeration
to state there are thousands of these images, all of different
sizes and all carved from stone. Many of these you will note
seem to be very lightly colored. This is caused by the fact that
at some time a w^orshiper desiring to pay special tribute has
woven a garment to cover its shoulders, this being their sacri-
fice when they come to worship it. You will also note that there
are several boxes in front of this court where are set up these
images. These also are receptacles for the gifts. Countless
multitudes come here to worship these gods — not to confess
their sins and pray for forgiveness, nor to pray for health,
but perhaps it is to ask a blessing for their children; that
they may be healed if ailing, or if a bone is broken that it
may be made strong again. Possibly they pray that their chil-
dren may be useful, or others, again, pray that they may be
blessed with children. Whatever the object or purpose they
may have in view, they come to the temple in endless proces-
sion, when the hours of service are tolled, for they are called to
worship by the sound of great drums which you see suspended
on pedestals. The priests tending the temple begin to beat these
drums as early as three o'clock in the morning. The sound is
very heavy and carries a long way. The object is to waken the
gods so they will hear the prayers. Immediately when the peo-
ple hear these drums beating, they begin to assemble. The
heathen manner of worship is to approach as near the god as
they can, then to cast their gifts before it, and, prostrating
themselves, pray in a loud voice in order that it shall not fail to
hear them.

QUE FIRST MISSIONARY WORK IN JAPAN

The missionary work in Japan conducted by the Pente-
costal Church of the Nazarene w^as begun in Kyoto, late
in the year 1907, with our first Sunday school December 15th.

54 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Kev. J. A. Chenault and wife, Eev. J. W. Thompson, wife and
two daughters, and the Misses lillian Poole and LuUi Williams,
began our mission at that time.

Our Japanese mission work was re-opened in this city by
Brother L. H. Humj)hrey and wife, with Sisters Poole and
Williams as associates, in March, 1914. It will doubtless be-
come headquarters for our work in that country, if the recom-
mendations to the General Board are indorsed by them later
on. I do not see how we can be more centrally located, as you
will readily see by reference to the map of the Empire, this
city is practically the center.

Our retiring Superintendent, Sister Cora G. Snider, was
of the opinion that this ancient capital would make an
excellent headquarters for us when we were financially and
numerically able to reopen the work there. The writer,
having made a survey of six of the largest cities in
Japan, comparing them with Kyoto, was favorably impressed
with its superiority as a location for mission headquarters.
It being more modernized than most other large cities and
also having better sanitary provisions, it seemed the more de-
sirable location for such iDurpose.

Kyoto ranks the third city in this country as to population,
having between a third and a half million inhabitants. Three
hours' ride on the train carries one to or from the seaport,
Kobe, probably the most important of any, both as to exiDort
and import tonnage, matters of much moment should we
finally decide to make it our future base of operations.

Its strategic importance. But wherever the Lord m.ay lead
us to do future service in the island kingdom, Kyoto would
be an accessible point from which our Superintendent could
supervise the Master's work, and should He prosper us in our
Bible Training School there, this town would be in easy com-
mand of the entire empire. There are also numerous other ad-
vantages to be derived from this central situation.

OUR MISSION BUILDING

Kyoto having been reopened since the writer left Japan,
he thinks he can best serve you in his statement on this phase

JAPAN 55

of our work by quoting- from Superintendont Humphrey's de-
scription.

Location. ''This morning we finished the matter of renting
suitable rooms, and secured fine quarters on East Oojo
(5th street) S. W., east side of the city. It is out of the
"red-light-district,"' on a good, business street, and is an ex-
cellent building for our work, having good rooms both up and
down stairs. With a comparatively small outlay, it can be put
into condition for immediate use. The rent is twenty-four yen,
or $12.00, per m-onth. The upper floor of the building will
make an ideal place for our Bible School, which I do so much
want to get going by the beginning of the next year, or
January, 1915. The floors are of strong plank. The upper
part is so nice we shall not need to cover it, unless we
wish to do so. There is room to handle at least two hundred
persons, on either floor." Brother Humphrey adds, "I am sure
the Lord is pleased with our doings in the matter. We have
made a deposit of fifty yen, or $25.00, as security money, which
will be returned when we give the premises up in good shape.
This is a district recognized as belonging to the Nazarene
work."

THE MISSIONAEY HOME

Brother Humphrey, writing about their living quarters,
states :

"We haA'e moved into the home of Brother Davis — a Meth-
odist Missionary, whose family is in America, and being alone,
he invited us to take charge and allow him to board with us.
In this way, he has a hom.e and we have a great blessing, as
the house is large, well furnished, and very pleasant; besides
there is sufficient room to accommodate our associate mission-
ary workers, — - Sisters Williams and Poole, so wo are all very
happy."

OUB JOUKXEY KESUMED

We had now to bid farewell to Sisters Snider, Poole, Will-
iams, and Humphrey. Brothers Humphrey and Nagamatsu
were to accompany the Avriter on the trix) to Kushu.
Kushu is the southernmost island of the Japanese empire, where
there are much people, and where very little evangelization has

56

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

ever been undertaken. This island is also noted for the superi-
ority of its men, not only for their character, prominence, and
influence in public departments of the general government, but
many of the leading commercial, military, and educational lead-
ers are furnished by the four provinces of this island — men dis-
tinguished in culture, military achievement and financial
success.

Brother Nagamatsu, having been reared in Kushu, and being
entirely familiar with its routes of travel, etc., we felt greatly
blessed in having him as guide. We leaned very heavily on
him in this portion of our trip, and he cheerfully assumed the
burden of it, arranging for our tickets — second-class passage

■■^^'■-v ■.

—1

-^

•<^

t

:^^l

H

1

^^Heijf^^^H

9

PAGODA AND TEMPLE, MIYA.JIMA ISLAND

— on the Kyoto express, which we boarded at 4 :50 a. m., and
were soon outside the city. We passed on to Kobe, and Osaka,
two of the largest towns and cities lying along the inland sea.
Occasionally we traveled quite a distance into the interior; then
again we would be in sight of the ocean, always, though, there
were either the mountains or sea in view, and many villages
dotting the valleys, where one had glimpses of the rice, wheat
and vegetable farms in fine shape. Once in awhile we would
catch sight of an orange grove.

JAPAN

57

We stopped for the night on the ishmd of Miyajima, at a
hotel recommended by Brother Garbold, as having" accommoda-
tions for foreigners. According to tradition, Miyajima (signi-
fying temple island) has for more than eighteen centuries been
regarded as a sacred place, as its name implies; and it is
strictly guarded. No deaths or births are allowed to occur here.
When such an incident is imminent, the mother, or the body,
as the case m.ay be, are at once carried over the bay, in order
to avoid the ceremonial impurity. The reader may be interested
in the pictures accompanying this reference, one showing the
temple, or pagoda, and the distant mountain scene.

TEMl'LE SCENE ON .MIYAJEMA ISLAND

We were up early the next morning after our arrival, having
enjoyed a brief rest. The air was clear, crisp and cold. En-
tering a launch, we were carried across the beautiful channel,
and landing, were soon comfortable in our coach. As the day
sped by, we passed hundreds of villages and prosperous cities,
finally changing cars at Shimonoseki, the junction for connection
to Korea, effecting the transfer to Moji by ferry. Thence on-
ward to the south; for it is at this point one enters the great
Kushu country. During the day we passed the immense iron

58

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

and steel plant of the government, one of the many places among
a thousand others of great interest. About midnight we reached
Kumamento, the seat of one of the government universities, at
which Brother Nagamatsu graduated. He was at home here, and
took us to a Japanese hotel that makes a specialty of enter-
taining foreigners. That is, they will furnish you with table,
and chairs to sit on while you eat; but your bed is on the floor,
as is also the braided mat on which you must sit after your
meal is finished. You are also furnished with a hihoslii, a sort
of clay or earthenware jar, with a charcoal fire to warm your
hands. But you have to sit on your feet to keep them warm,

.lAPANESE HOTEL, KUMAMENTO

unless your hihoslii is extra large, and gives out a surplus of heat
to warm the room.

It being quite late when we arrived, after a cup of coffee
and a hot bath, we retired with the assurance that if we fell
out of bed we would not have very far to fall.

We were up early — I say ive for each of us had a bed in the
same room. Though we had two rooms, we kept the other for
a dining-room. Perhaps, the reader may mentally accuse us of
putting on style, but not so, I beg of you; for the style was a
necessity. Wo liad to go downstairs and out of doors across

NATIVE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, KUMAMENTO

LEPEIi HOSPITAL, KUMAMENTO
59

60

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

a court to the public washroom, where we soou comiDleted our
toilet — all except our shoes, which we were not permitted to
wear indoors, but must carry outside with us, before we could
put them on. They were very thoughtful, though, in furnish-
ing one with slippers having no heels, which we now wore.
Having finished with breakfast, which was prepared American
style, we now started on our tour of investigation, first visiting
the churches of the Methodists, Presbyterians, Congregational-
ists, and Lutherans, each of which were modest frame buildings.
We give a view of the Methodist Episcopal church and par-

IIOME OF HIROSHI, KUMAMENTO

sonage, built and supported by the Japanese. The ministerial
duties are discharged by a Japanese pastor.

Among the many places of interest wo visited the lepers'
hospital, where they had thirty patients. We were also advised
that there is another lepers' hospital in this city, where there
are sixty inmates. This is a village of cottages, more of a
family affair, which enables them to grade the cases, and put
each class by themselves.

The accompanying picture shows the home of a brother of
Hiroshi Kitagawa, the place where, early in 1912, Sister
Staples held the first missionary meeting on this island

JAPAN 61

for the l?ciit('C()stal Olmrch of the jSTazaivne. Mr. Iliroshi
is a carpenter, and lives in the rear of the building:, running
a store in the front portion. This phice, of course, is of special
interest to all Pentecostal believers, for the reason above stated.
It was here that Hiroshi's brother was converted. Hiroshi him-
self has spent several years in the United States of America,
g-raduatincT at the Pasadena University. He has now returned
with Brother and Sister Staples, to Kumamento, where they
are all engaged in missionary work for the Pentecostal Church
of the Nazarene, making this city the central station, and
working from there to the other places in southern Japan.
Kumamento is the central and leading city of the island ; and
is also a very needy field, for at least one-third of the city has
never been evangelized at all, and they have no church or
mission of any kind.

Monday, January 6th, found us again leaving Kumamento,
on the 4:00 o'clock m.orning train, en route for Kogashima
and Sakurajima — the latter island being known as the ''Island
of Cherries." The railway carried us through many villages
and cities, and over high grades, until finally, at about 10 :00
a. m., we arrived at Kogashima, the second largest city on the
island of Kushu, with a population of twenty-five thousand,
and probably a hundred m.iles south of Kumam.ento.

As our time was very limited, we were unable to visit the
missions and churches, but learned of some work being
carried on in this needy field. We became convinced that this
city might be made one of our leading outposts for the exten-
sion of the cause in southern Japan, if a strong- central station
is established at Kumamento. Having made a hasty survey
of Kogashima, our party gave attention to the volcano on
the island of Sakurajima, recently very active. We saw the
great havoc wrought, and its special destructiveness of walls,
brick, stone, and cement houses, these having suffered by the
violent concussion at the eruption, January 16th, and the day
following. As we witnessed the ruin on all sides, we had an
increased desire to get in closer range and make a study of
the mighty crater, still belching forth its poisonous vapors,
and seathino- smoke and lava.

62

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

The iK'C()iiu)aiiying' picture v.ill i>iYe the reader some con-
ception of the scene.

So absorbed had we become, we had taken no thouG;ht of
ourselves, nor had we partaken of food since a light and early
breakfast. We now took a rowboat to bring us from Sakura-
jima, the Island of Cherries, as it used to be called, but now
rather named the Island of Volcanoes, to Kogashima, hurried
into our coach, leaving on the northbound train for Nagasaki.

Sakurajima is only one of the many islands of southern
Japan, which because of the volcanic tendencies, are sparsely

VOLCANO, ISLAND OF SAKURAJIMA

inhabited, and a missionary movement would not seek to estab-
lish a ijermanent work, but rather only sucb local effort as
would be in connection with a central org-anization at Koga-
shima on the mainland. Brother Humphrey was very favor-
ably impressed with Kuchu Island as a field for our future under-
takings. On account of the great number of fugitives from
the volcano-stricken districts, the coach was much crowded,
and we were unable to find a sleeper. Brothers Humphrey and
Nagamatsu, however, more fortunate than the writer, found
places large enough to lie down. This was impossible for our-
selves, being wedged into a seat with others, and we had to sit
up all night; but we made a companion of our typewriter

JAPAN 63

"Corona" and dispatched some of our long-neglected correspond-
ence. It was quite a trial to ride all night in a car where
nearly all were smoking, and where they wanted all the doors
and windows closed; but the dear Lord who gives us ever of
His abundant sustaining grace, did not forget His children on
this occasion. Hallelujah to His name!

Tuesday morning, January 27th, wo arrived at Toso Junc-
tion, where we were to make connection for Nagasaki. It was
at this junction that we took farewell of Brother Nagamatsu,
who desired to visit his aged mother living with a son in a
nearby town. We are certainly greatly indebted to our good
Brother Nngamatsu. He is not only a Christian gentleman,
a man of vision, culture, and power for good, but he was so
thoughtful and efficient in his sendees as guide, interpreter,
and friend, as well during our trip at Kuchu, as all through
our stay in Japan. We are looking for great things from him
in the work of the jMaster for Japan, both from his consecrated
spirit and his touch and acquaintance with his fellow college
graduates, who are now^ in many instances men of great prom-
inence and influence in the public affairs of the government.
One, a member of the Japanese Parliament, though not a pro-
fessed Christian, is inclined to favor its work, and is a warm
personal friend of Brother Nagamatsu. As we thanked him
and said good-by, we breathed a prayer to God to bless and
keep him and make him indei'd a great i)()wer for the SL^vation
of his countrymen.

Brother Humphrey accompanied us to Nagasaki, where we
arrived about noon. We were embarrassed for a little while,
not being able to speak the language, but Anally found a rail-
way employee at the station who knew English, and through
him we secured guides that conducted tis to the Paris Hotel,
which has accomm.odations for foreigners, and where, contrary
to Japanese custom, one is allowed to wear shoes — a most
fortunate occurrence for us, I assure you.

Soon after arriving at this southernmost and very important
seaport of Japan, we learned that the Prince Ludwig, of the
North German Lloyd Steamship Company, on which we had
arranged for passage to Shanghai, China, would sail fourteen
hours ahead of schedule time. This arrangement g-reatly in-

64 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

convenienced both the writer and Brother ITuiTiphrey, for we
had planned that these hist hours should be spent in a final
conference and detailed consideration of the great task now
devolving upon our brother Superintendent. But, by the grace
of God, which never faileth, we were able, even with the limited
time at our disposal, to obtain a very fair idea of the nature of
these undertakings, and acquaint ourselves with the city and its
needs, as well as to inform ourselves of the work which is now
being conducted. Although our limitations did not permJt us to
visit the churches and missions, and study the situation by per-
sonal observation, yet we had been blessed in having met so
many representatives assembled at the Holy Convocation, at
Shoiya, and thus it was the data accumulated in that session of
saints now proved very helpful indeed. It will also be invalu-
able to Brother IIumiDhrey, who is now Superintendent of our
work in Japan, and entrusted with all the missiiiary interests,
Miss Snider having already turned over all pertaining to the
work of the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene in Japan.

Eeturning to our room, we hastily reviewed our past and
prospective work in that field, then, after a season of prayer
and reading of the Word, we finally said good-by to Brother
Humphrey and went aboard ship. He was to return next
morning to Fukuchiyama, being rejoined at Toso Junction by
Brother Nagamatsu.

The entire twenty-six days spent in Japan in behalf of our
missions, while days of most strenuous effort, had been blessed
days, full of interest and profit, and the writer believes his ex-
periences will not only bo beneficial to the work and workers
over there, but will knit the souls of our people here in the
homeland into closer bonds with the absent brother and his
faithful colleagues, as well as kindle the fires to a yet more
zealous, loving eifort for God, and truth and right, the glory
of the Master, and the salvation of millions of unhappy people.
He trusts it will imbue them with a more benevolent spirit, as
well as encourage them to a larger support.

We pray that the Lord will help us in planning an aggressive,
as well as successful strengthening and enlarging of the oper-
ations there, until the millions who are now in darkness shall
have received the Gospel in all its fulness.

Part II

China

You were last with me when I said oood-bye to Brother
Missionary Superintendent Humphrey in Southern Japan, as I
embarked on the steamship Prince Ludivig, enroute for Shang-
hai, China, at 9 :30 p. m., January 29th.

The stateroom to which I had been assigned, iSTo. 283, was
on the outside deck, and had four berths, but J was the sole
occupant, and it was very pleasant, being immaculately clean,
the linen white and pure, everything smelling so sweet, and
altogether in such sharp contrast with the recent experience
across the Pacific. As I passed to my cabin, I had ascertained
that some mail could be dispatched by a last launch, thus I
was busy for more than an hour writing a number of short
letters; then, not having been in bed since Sunday night, also
up again at 3 :00 Monday morning, I was so oppressed with
weariness, I retired, and was soon sleeping soundly, not even
being aware when our boat weighed anchor at 10 :45 p. m.

Wednesday, January 30th, I spent most of the day in my
room in an endeavor to catch up with much neglected cor-
respondence, and daily memoranda, which, on account of rapid
and continuous travel and other demands, had, "up to now,
been sadly neglected.

As we approached Shanghai, I was much impressed by the
absence of the mountain scenery of Japan, and the wide monot-
onous expanse of the Chinese flats, now stretching away before
us as far as the eye could compass. The distance from Nagasaki,
in Southern Japan, to Shanghai, across the Yellow Sea, is 1,050
miles; and we had covered it in twenty-eight hours, arriving at
the mouth of Yellow River (Hwang Ho) at 2 : 00 a. m. Thursday.
Here we were detained several hours, waiting for flood-tide to
enable us to proceed 130 miles up stream, to the quays of Shang-
hai. On reaching them, at 1 :00 p. m., we could not dock because

65

66 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

of the numerous ocean craft ahead of us. so cast anchor in mid-
stream and were taken ashore by one of the company's launches.
To our surprise and delight, we were met by Brother Mission-
ary Keihn, who, with his wife, son Arnold, and Miss Glennie J.
Sims, had preceded us the month before. He at once took the
writer and his baggage in charge and saved him much embar-
rassment— for one scon loses the feeling that he is a private
American citizen as he lands and is literally besieged with
Chinese — laborers, jinrikisha men, burden-bearers, and various
others, all wanting a tip — so he tipped the coolies ; then his
several years' experience in the country enabling him to make
arrangements with a reliable porter to take charge of our heavier
luggage, with the lighter articles in hand, we took our places in
jinrikisha. There were all manner of conveyances, wheelbarrows,
cabs, motor buses, and electric cars. Scarcely had we started,
liowever, when we heard approaching behind us a mad, impetuous
scuffling of feet, and such a babel of tongues as never before
heard. Further progress was arrested until Brother Keihn as-
certained that the trouble was over some counterfeit money he
had innocently given the porter, having himself received it but
a moment before as change from one of the coolies. So he
gave the man another piece of money, and we resumed our way.
After a brief but most interesting ride, we reached the mission-
ary's hotel, the temporary home of Brother Keihn, run by a
Mr. Edward Evans in behalf of the missionaries and foreigners.
It is especia'lly adapted for the use of missionaries, grace being
said at meals, and Bible reading and prayer conducted night
and morning. Brother Keihn and I spent the remainder of
the day making purchases at the bookstores of guides, maps,
etc., visiting furnishing stor<^s to order some lighter clothing
suitable for our trip to India, that same might be in readiness
on our return from the interior, arranging our passage with the
officials of the German Lloyd vessels, visitiug the x\merican Con-
sul General's office, to have our passport signed, and securing
a special passport for our trip into Shantung province, the same
being urgent because of disturbed conditions due to recent
bandit raids. On the whole, we were able to transact quite a
little business through the courteous kinduess of Brother Keihn,
he having become familiar with ways and menus during his

CHINA 67

five years' residence in China. 1'liat cxening we were closeted
with him in our room at the hotel, x^lanning onr trip into the
interior. As we could not take much bag-gage with us, we re-
packed our trunks, and having completed our arrangements for
leaving the city next day, made a brief call at the mission con-
ducted by Miss F. M. Smith, founder and superintc-ndent of a
mission for Japanese in Shanghai, whom we had met at the
holiness convocation in Shioya, Japan, as we wanted to learn
something of her interesting w^ork. However, she had not re-
turned, so we decided to make her mission a visit as we came
back to Shanghai.

We were to travel second class from Shanghai to Tsinanfu,
a distance of about TOO miles, so Brother Keihn suggested we
had better enter our compartment early in order to secure our
seats, inasmuch as it w^as a night train, and usually densely
crowded. At the station, we found the faithful porter had
arrived with our baggage. Tickets purchased, and coolies tipped,
we at once proceeded to select our seats. One is at liberty
to have his preference, if there is such a thing as choice in
traveling second class. However, in this instance v/e could and
did secure reasonably good seats in a coach which had form.erly
been used in first class service, w^here, owing to the habit of fre-
quent tea drinking, the benches face each other with a table be-
tween. So we took our places at one of these, and found by
stretching ourselves under the table we could snatch some sleep,
w^hich we gladly did, spreading our blankets and steamer rugs,
and thus secured several hours' rest. Brother Tveihn, one other
white man, and the writer composed the foreig-n passengers on
the train, which was well filled. Tea drinking and smoking
began at once with the Chinese, also the hot-towel face bath,
which continued until after midnight. This is a favorite prac-
tice with them; and w^hile it may be very refreshing, to the for-
eigner with his dread of contracting contagious diseases as
leprosy, smallpox, etc., through using the same towel previously
employed by twx*nty or more persons without change, it is any-
thing but an attractive process.

We arrived at Nanking, a city having a population of some-
thing more than 300,000, and among other interesting features
many schools, both foreign, native, and missionary. Here

68 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

we made connection with the Tsinanfu-Pukow Railway,
which joins Pukow with Peking, the capital of China.
Nanking was the ancient capital of China, and while waiting
for our train to leave we were permitted to take in some por-
tions of this railway terminal. The writer thought he was
already familiar with scenes of poverty and its indications in
other lands, but since the picture of the abject misery in this
place, there seems never before any destitution to have come to
his notice. Language fails to describe the wretchedness or
suffering of the wasted forms wrapped in their so-called cloth-
ing, and the pallid, withered faces of these mendicants.

CHINESE GRAVES

When we finally began our way, we passed through wide,
level valleys, then perhaps we would come in sight of distant
mountain ranges, or ascending some minor chains, the land
would stretch away in great rolling plains much like those of
the Southern and Western states of America, then again the
mountains. In some sections through which we passed, there
was a nearly continuous belt of villages, containing from
twenty-five to five hundred houses, and possibly from one to
four families in each. Most of the highlands were sown in
wheat.

CHINA 69

One particular feature, which impressed us on this part
of the journey, was the extensive tracts used for graveyards,
some of the hirgest ones having been used for that purpose
hundreds of years, and the larger they were the relatively
greater honor conferred on the people whose remains were de-
posited there. These earth mounds were from two to fifteen
feet in height, and in some sections on our route, occupied -so
much space, there was little land left for farming purposes

I inquired of my companion. Brother Keihn, if the small
mounds of earth represented the plot where children were buried ;
but he told me that babies were never given burial — their little
bodies being cast outside the walls of the city for the dogs to
devour, or in villages to some place in the back, where the wild
boasts and dogs disposed of them. We learned also of another
very cruel practice, that of indifference to suffering. A man
or woman may be writhing in the awful throes of death, yet
no one of the passing throngs will approach to bathe his brow,
moisten his parched lips, or chafe his aching limbs, and there
the pitiful sufferer m.ay languish several days with no human
ministration to alleviate his pain. It was explained to us, how-
ever, that on account of a custom they have, a stranger dares
not touch or meddle with the sufferer in any way, since a law-
suit for damages might be prosecuted by the relatives of the
afflicted person. Listening to these explanations, the writer is
led to ask, "Is the missionary needed in China?''

The houses of this section are constructed of strong, tall
reeds, cemented over with a plaster of straw and mud, possibly
a little lime mixed in to make it more adhesive, the roofs being
thatched with straw or long grasses. Wind, water, water-oxen,
cows, donkeys and mules, together with human horses (man)
seem to be the motor power for this part of China. Being much
exhausted from continuous travel, the ^vriter sought to rest a
little en route. While second class passengers can not secure
sleeper privileges on these trains, they are allowed to eat in
the dining car ; but the first-class passengers are given preference
in way of time. We secured a very good breakfast for 75 cents,
lunch for $1.25, and dinner for $1.50 in Chinese money, the
equivalent of about half that amount in our own money, that is,
the same accommodations in China cost pretty much the same

70 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

price as here in America for the same class, or as in European
countries.

Our coach being lighted with poor lamps was not at all con-
ducive to reading, and being excessively weary we tried to get
a little rest. The night, too, was very cold, and our apartment
poorly heated, yet we did the best we could to keep warm by
wpapping up in blankets and rugs, though we got but little rest
during the long, drawn-out hours. At last, early Sabbath morn-
ing, we arrived at Tsinanfu, and were agreeably sur]3rised to be
met at the station by Sisters Iveihn and Sims, and Master Ar-
nold Keihn. Brother Keihn having spent several weeks at
diiferent times in this city, was quite at ease, and took charge
of all our baggage, making arrangements so that we were all
soon comfortably seated in 'rikishas. After a ride of several
miles in the crisp, cold air, we were glad to arrive at the home
of Brother and Sister Paul Geisler, who, having spent a number
of years in active missionary work, were in full sympathy with
the missionaries now in the field, and being large-hearted, they
made arrangements not only for the entertainment of Brother
and Sister Keihn, but for their friends during their sojourn in
the city. We were shortly shown to a room, cozily heated by a
coal fire, with arrangements for bathing, etc., and through the
thoughtfulness of our hostess, we were not summoned to break-
fast for several hours, being permitted to snatch a little of the
much needed rest. When we were called we met the members
of the family. Brother and Sister Geisler, their son Jesse,
aged five, and daughter Lydia, aged six, and our missionary
Miss Glennie Sims. After a bountiful repast and genial con-
versation, we had the privilege of conducting family worship,
which was indeed a time of refreshing to our souls. As the hour
was somewhat late, the family did not attend the religious
services during the early part of the day, but Brother Geisler
very kindly arranged for the writer and Brother Keihn to be
taken over to the Soldiers Institute, owned by the Baptist Mis-
sionary Board, but supported by individual funds from the out-
side. It is a fine place, but not many of the soldiers were in
attendance. The Rev. Mr. Hammond in charge said that the
founders and supporters were somewhat disappointed in that the
soldiers as a rule do not take to the enterprise. After a re-

CHINA

71

freshing dinner, our party, Brother and Sister Keilm, Brother
and Sister Geisler, Master Arnold Keihn, Miss Sims, and the
writer, were taken to the Baptist settlement, composed of Eng-
lish Baptists. This service was in the Baptist Chapel, about
forty persons being in attendance, the same being known as
the meeting for people of the foreign settlement. Bev. White-
right preached the discourse of the evening, a very helpful mes-
sage indeed. We returned homo through the suburban part of
the city, where we saw many beggars, and throngs of people in
all manner of costumes. The latter part of our return trip lay

GEISLER FAMILY

through the German foreign settlement. We spent the evening
in singing familiar songs, Bible reading and prayers. Above
is a picture of Brother Geisler and his family.

It might be of interest to the reader at this point to know
why Miss Sims had remained so long at Tsinanfu, in the home
Brother and Sister Geisler, and we might explain that upon her
arrival she found them very anxious to secure an English and
music teacher for their children — and she having had experi-
ence both in music and in the schoolroom, was well equipped to
meet their requirements, providing suitable arrangements could

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GEISLER HOME AND CHILDREN
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BROTHER GEISLER AND FAMILY WITH MISSIONARY PARTY
IN EXPORT COMPOUND, TSINANFU

GEISLER'S PEANUT INDUSTRY
73

74 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

be made. So it was agreed that if she would instruct the chil-
dren, her home would be provided for with them, also a competent
master in the Chinese language employed for her by Brother
Geisler; and this arrangement was tentatively entered into.
Brother Geisler, we wish to state, at a former time was engaged
in missionary enterprises; but becoming discouraged had aban-
doned the work to others, and had then entered in business in
China. In this he was greatly prospered. His was a large im-
porting and exporting undertaking, one of its branches being
the peanut trade, in which department he employed a large
corps of Chinese men, and more than a thousand women; fre-
quently shipping as high as thirty carloads daily.

When at length the time came for Sister Sims to go into
the interior, her friends greatly regretted the separation from
her, yet they were glad to have her obedient unto the Lord, for
during her stay He had greatly blessed them, and a mission htid
been opened in connection with Brother Gcisler's business, and
was bearing much fruit, the same having been conducted by
her, with Sister Geisler's help.

Monday morning we were favored with a glorious sunrise
and bright atmosphere. Through the courtesy of Brother
Geisler, we inspected the Whiteright Museum and Institute, re-
ceiving the most cordial attention from the founder and his
wife. This is an educational institute, and has for its object
the spreading of the Gospel. We were informed that not less
than 300,000 Chinese had visited this institute during the last
year, and that of these over 30,000 were pilgrims either on the
way to or returning from pilgrimages of worship at the shrine
of som.e distant temple. The missionaries and preachers in this
institute, hope by the educational process to reach and interest
many of the influential Chinese, and indirectly to awaken an
appreciation of the Gospel message, and its resultant effects
in elevating, enriching, and advancing civilization, as well as
the saving of its people.

From hero we were taken to Lotus Lake, a very popular
summer resort for the people of Tsinanfu. In the warm
season, this retreat is noted both for its beauty and the abund-
ance of its lotus blossoms. It is a rest resort of the better
class business men, who are drawn thither by the little house-

FISHING Full LILY ROOTS IN LOTUS LAKE

SACRED SPRINGS, TSINANFU
75

76

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

boats which are lighted at night by myriads of Chinese lan-
terns. This lake is almost surrounded by temples and their
grounds, very attractive and interesting as types of Oriental
architecture.

The accompanying picture shows them fishing in ''Lotus
Lake" for lily roots, a much prized table delicacy.

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FORTUNE TELLER IN STREETS OF
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From this lake, we were escorted to what is known as the
Five Sacred Springs in the business heart of the Chinese city.
Here we saw manj^ thousands worshiping these springs.

But one thing filled us with astonishment — these people,
though congregated ostensibly for the holy rites of worship, also

CHINA

77

found the occasion convenient for pursuit of questionable pleas-
ures, gambling, dancing, opium smoking, etc. You see, there-
fore, one -is not at much loss to conjecture either as to how
superficial or beneficial the worshipful practice is to them. A
little further along the crowd had grown dense and excited, and
being somewhat curious, we pressed forward to ascertain the
cause of it all. What was our surprise, to be ushered into the
presence of an aged fortune teller whose predictions were lit-
erally holding the people spellbound. The people of China are
much like our own. They differ from our people in this, that
while in this country, religious practice is disassociated from

CHINESE WOMEN WASHING, TSINANFU

abandonment to questionable amusements, the Chinese use the
convenience of the assembly for religious devotions to indulge
the pleasure instinct.

Well, we have now passed along a little further, when we
come to a waterway, and find a large number of women around
the public washing pool, for it is Monday, and washday. The
reader may be interested to note the scene in the picture above.

The throng in the Chinese portion of the city was immense.
Returning from there, we went to a great carpet weaving estab-
lishment which was very interesting indeed.

78 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Tuesday we were all busily engaged in making preparation
for our trip some distance into the interior, and attending to
urgent correspondence, and not until 3 :00 a. m., Wednesday,
was everything in readiness.

Notwitshtanding the lateness of the hour of retirement,
we were up at 5 :00 o'clock, and arranging for the trip. At
first it was thought that one mule cart would be sufficient for
the party of four and just necessary baggage, but the car
proved inadequate. (It was impossible to undertake such a
journey with the assurance of any degree of comfort or pros-
pect of success, so an additional vehicle was speedily arranged
for.) Brother and Sister Keihn, Master Arnold, and the native
driver, with a part of the baggage, were soon loaded into one
cart, and my steamer trunk tied on the back; while the
writer with a native driver, the remainder of the baggage, his
typewriter "Corona," and a largo commissary box well provis-
ioned with edibles, canned fruits, meats, etc., with provender for
the animals, were loaded into the other. The first cart was
drawn by two small, white mules, while our animals were two
little mules, one mouse colored, the other black. The cart was
a two-wheeled, wooden affair, no seat and no springs — blankets,
rugs, etc., being spread on the floor of the conveyance to make
up for the lack of these — having a straight axle-tree, oi:!en in
front and covered by a little house of green cloth; the harness
was a rope contrivance, and the collars were made of straw, the
driver sitting in front to direct his team when he was not
walking to keep warm. We had made arrangements for leaving
our heavier trunk, valuable papers, checks, etc., until we re-
turned, as on account of the number of marauders infesting the
country to which we were destined, travelers frequently have
a Jericho experience, and it was not considered safe to take any
valuables more than absolutely necessary.

Everything being now in readiness, and the good-byes said,
we started at 9 :15 for our interior trip. By noon we had already
passed through fifteen villages, averaging possibly fifty houses
in each, and many of them inhabited with four families, so one
is at no loss to conjecture the density of population in this
farming country, for that is practically what it is. The farmers
do not build houses on the land they work, but group them to-

**■ .

1

BROTHER KIEHN AND MULE AND CART

H. F. REYNOLDS IN A MULE CART

79

80

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

gether so as to leave the ground free for tillage, save the family-
graveyards which are indicated by the mounds of earth seen on
every hand, many of them ornamented with fine trees.

Most of the land seen during our first day's trip was very
level, and in a high state of cultivation. At mid-day, we
struck a great dike that controls the overflow water of the

HOTEL, WAO TIEN

noted Yellow Eiver. At 1 :00 o'clock, we made our first stop
at the village Tsi-Ho, putting up at an inn, or Chinese hotel,
for lunch.

I am sure the reader will be interested to know something
about the accommodations here. The building itself was about
12 feet by 20 feet, the walls composed of adobe blocks, and

CHINA 81

divided into two rooms, a door and no window, no stove or
place for fire. People in this section do not have fires except
in extreme cold weather, then kindle a small one in the middle
of the room on the floor. There are no chimneys at all, con-
sequently when there is a fire built, the smoke causes more
discomfort than the cold, and it is perhaps also the reason for
an affection of the eyes from which a great number of the
natives suffer. Many of these inns have no windows at all, or
if windows, the paper which is supposed to cover them, is ab-
sent. The furniture on this occasion consisted of an ^ipology
for a table, one chair without a bottom, and a long, narrow
bench. One naturally raises the question as to how the meal is
prepared. Brother Keihn having been a missionary to China
for five years, and having spent much of that time as a touring
missionary, had accustomed himself to the methods of the coun-
try, and learned how to make arrangements for such emergen-
cies. On this trip, he and Sister Keihn had provided themselves
with a good blue-flame oil stove, and we were able at nearly
every place to secure good fuel-oil, while our drivers, being
very familiar with this part of the country, were able to find
us an inn. The fi.rst thing one does after finding an inn is to
drive into the court, back the cart up to the door, and unload
the baggage and lunch box, with such things as may be needed.
Then some one is dispatched to obtain hot water, for the Chinese
have found out that to keep well they must drink it hot. Con-
sequently, at most any time after 10:00 o'clock, in most of the
villages or towns, one can procure it in any quantity from
those who make it a business to furnish such supply. This cus-
tom has really been founded, on necessity, as ow^ng to the scarc-
ity of fuel the people do not build fires in the morning, but for
a small amount of money purchase all the hot water needed,
and get along that way with much less expense. By the time
the hot water had been secured, the crowd had become so dense
in the door — even penetrating into the room — that Sister
Keihn found it impossible to proceed with the preparations,
until her husband went out into the yard and began to sing
and preach so as to attract attention and draw the people out
from the inn. At length, Sister Keihn announced that the din-
ner was ready. Everything seemed very strange to us, but we

82 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

soon learned to adapt ourselves to the circumstances. After
enjoying a good lunch, the luggage was repacked, and again we
were on our way. During the early part of the day it had been
very gloomy, and at times heavy showers descended; but now
the clouds lifted, and we obtained a fair view of the landscape.
At evening, we stopped in the village of Chi'aomiao, where the
drivers were able to secure an inn similar to the one just de-
scribed, and we had to repeat our exi>erience of interesting the
crowd while the meal was in preparation. Supper over, we
endeavored to catch up with our daily memorandum and our
neglected correspondence, retiring about 10 :30.

Incidentally, the reader is advised that seldom ever is tlK?re
any arrangement made in those inns for a bedstead or bed.
Occasionally, the earth is raised at one or both ends of the
room, perhaps some six or eight inches. Sometimes there may
even be a cot made out of heavy wood and coarse cord stretched
across; but almost without exception, it is the bare, earthen
floor, with possibly a thin mat constructed of straw or leaves.
Brother Keihn and family occupied one end of this room, and
the writer the other. We had with us traveling mats lined
about two inches thick with cotton, and spreading these on the
floor with our blankets and steamer rug, then wrapping up in
a heavy overcoat, also a fur coat which Sister Keihn did not
wish to use, we were able to keep comfortably warm and slept
quite a little.

On our second day out we were up at 5 :00 o'clock, and suc-
ceeded in getting our drivers started before light. The weather
was somewhat cloudy, the atmosphere very damp and searching.
There is an old saw, "When in^Eome, one must do as the
Eomans do," and being in that part of China where breakfast
is never prepared — that is, fires are never built in the m.orning
— we fell into line, more from necessity than any particular
desire on our part. However, the night before. Sister Keihn
had thoughtfully made some hot coffee and placed it in the
thermos bottle, also prepared some sandwiches, and thus we
were able to enjoy a good lunch before starting out on our trip.

As the day advanced, the clouds broke away, the sun came
out warm and bright, and the air was quite charming. The
way lay through an endless chain of villages, in fact we were

HOTEL. WALLED TOWN CHIAO MIAO

NIGHT SCENE IN HOTEL IN CHUYEHHSIEN
(City of 10,000)

84 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

never out of sight of one during the whole day. Later we came
frequently upon walled cities and towns, these increasing in
number as we advanced on our journey, the reason being that
we had entered the section which is so harrassed by bands of
brigands, that the people being thus disturbed, have been obliged
to protect their homes with massive walls.

We crossed several dry channels — the country abounding
in these, as formerly the taxes, largely paid in grain, were
loaded on boats and carried by way of the canals to the capital.
The wheat was looking green, and Vas in drills some ten or
twelve inches in interval. We would call it winter wheat in
America. Occasionally we would pass an old orchard with
pear and plum trees.

Having started so early in the morning, we put up for
lunch at about 10:00 a. m. in a village" called Lianechiar. We
went to the proverbial Chinese inn, where Sister Iveihn busied
herself with the preparation of the meal, and the writer occu-
pied his time in dispatching correspondence, while Brother
Keihn preached to the Chinese, many of whom said they had
never before heard the Gospel message. The sad realization
of their benighted condition weighed heavily uiDOn us, as we
looked about and saw the land thickly dotted with temples,
disclosing idols and shrines on every hand. At some villages
there would be several of these; nearly every farm would have
a temple of some kind, and frequently in the family graveyard
there would be erected a small structure with one or more gods
in it.

We are here at the Chinese New Year's celebration, which
begins January 26th, and continues sixteen days. During the
period there is much interchanging of visits among the people
who now wear their best clothes, have good things to eat,
gamble, drink wines, etc. We saw very many families in ox
or mule carts going and coming from such visits. Crowds of
women in the villages and cities could bo seen hobbling along
— I say hobble, because in the interior of China they have not
yet abandoned the custom of foot-binding — as the women and
girls are allowed many privileges on this festive occasion which
ordinarily are denied them. Again, the farmers are not doing
much, so there are numbers of men going on pilgrimages to

CHINA

85

some distant mountain shrine or city to worship and pray.
]^ot, however, to pray for pardon of shortcoming's, and guid-
ance into a better life, but to ask for prosperity in business,
or good crops; or if it is homage they render to an ancestor,
tlieu to offer incense that they will do them good and not harm.

CHINESE AVOMAN, AGED 82, AS SHE

APPEARED WHEN SISTER KIEHN

FIRST TOLD HER OF JESUS

We had made a long drive in the afternoon, and at dusk
we put in at the village of Bochipaing. Here the inn was again
one room, having two paper windows, no chimney, no brick
place for beds, and a chair without a seat in it. While Brother
Keihn preached to the people who thronged about the door,

86 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Sister Keilin prepared our evening repast. But this time our
good brother could not interest them, and they crowded about
the room so that Sister Tvcihn finally had to promise that if
they would go away until our meal was served, she would come
out and talk after her work was done, which she did. Many
of them said they had never before heard the story of Jesus.
One old lady of eighty-two years said,"I have never before heard
such news; no doubt you have come just now for this express
purpose."

Being too weary from our day's jaunt to write, we wrapped
up in our blankets and, committing ourselves to the Lord, were
soon sleeping soundly.

Friday morning we were up and on our way before dawn,
desiring to make 120 lis, or about 40 miles — ■ the same distance
as on the day preceding. When we first started out this morn-
ing, progress was slow on account of the hard, frozen ground.
It was the coldest day we had thus far experienced, consequently
we were obliged to walk every little while to keep warm. Later,
the sun came out and warmed things up. The air was fine,
and free from the odor usually arising from the heavily fertil-
ized soil, also from the cities. The country has much the same
appearance as yesterday, but land is not so good, and frequently
we see considerable indication of alkali. Occasionally we would
pass farms with great ridges of the earth piled up, and learned it
was where the top alkali soil had been scraped oif so the under
strata could be tilled. The graveyards in this section also
aeemed to be larger and more numerous. We noted, too, fre-
quent wooded tracts, many of the trees being tall and large,
especially the cottonwood so much prized in building material
for poles, rafters, etc. In one village we saw several large
trunks of trees, one end set in the ground and a man with a
cross-cut saw cutting it up into slabs or planks for further
purposes. The walled cities are on the increase. In fact, one
that is not thus protected is the exception. We had passed
through two large ones and came to the village of Liangchialer.
where we now stopped for dinner. The crowd as usual pressed
about until it was impossible to get our meal. We were able
at this place to get some pictures of the inn and carts, while
Brother and Sister Keihn both talked to the people, and ques-

CHINA 87

ti oiling them, IcariKHl that some Presbyterian missionaries, also
missionaries of the National Holiness Association had formerly
passed through; but the great majority claimed never before
to have heard abont the Savior. Lunch over, we were soon on
our way. However, the road being sandy and heavy pulling
for the mules, we were compelled to put up early at the walled
city of Heinshi, but the inn was not so good as the ones we
had previously enjoyed. The furniture consisted of two tables,
such as they were, two narrow benches, and some piles of dirt
for the beds. However, we succeeded in getting a man to sell
us two bunches of millet straw which we divided and spread

HOTEL, LIAXGCIIIALEU

out, and covering the same with our blankets and steamer rug,
succeeded in getting a good night's rest. Our usual experi-
ence was not lacking here. Great crowds of people thronged
the yard and door, so that it was a long time before we could
get anything to eat. The writer endeavored to give them a
short talk, Brother Keihn acting as interpreter.

It was a very dark, cold, damp night, and the inn fireless,
so our discomfort was unusual. Notwithstanding this, we felt
it imperative to spend several hours writing up our daily mem-

88 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

oraiida. Having put on a heavy sweater and overcoat, and a
Japanese hot water bottle between our feet, which kept one
side warm while the other froze, we wrote with our fingers
numbed with the cold. You ask, "Why do it?" Well, it had
to be done, or else at the next place I would be crowded with
clerical duties as when I landed in China.

Saturday morning found us up early as usual, having made
a good start before day. The weather was cold and clear. As
we advanced, our course lay through a country where there w?s
much alkali, and later becoming sandy, we saw many orchards
of apricots, pears, peaches, also several kinds of trees bearing-
nuts, one of them like our English walnut. This country.
Shantung, is noted for its fruits. We now stopped at Tienping
for lunch, having driven about eight miles, leaving 20 lis for
the afternoon drive to Nankwantao, where we hoped to rest over
Sabbath. Having such a short distance to go, we made only
a brief stop for our lunch, just giving the mules a chance to
get some provender, then hastening on, at 4:00 p. m. arrived
on the bank of the Wei River, opposite headquarters of the
National Holiness workers. Some of the Chinese converts of
this mission, learning that we were foreigners, crossed in their
private skiff, and notified the missionaries that we were coming,
so that by the time we succeeded in crossing by ferry, they
were hurrying down to the shore. Among them were Reverend
and Mrs. Woodford Taylor, Reverend and Mrs. Cecil Troxel,
Reverend and Mrs. John Moe, and Misses Iva G. Brown and
Katheryn Flagler, who gave us a most hearty welcome. Then,
assuming charge of both ourselves and baggage, they soon made
us comfortable in a room heated with a hard coal stove, also
with a plentiful supply of hot water, by which we were soon
presentable and ready for refreshments, which were bountifully
served.

We were agreeably surprised to find the National Holiness
workers in such fine quarters, comely buildings, substantially
constructed of brick, with living rooms, a small dispensary, a
Bible Training School for native preachers, a day school, and
school for Bible women, also accommodations for Chinese
women and another for Chinese men, all being enclosed by a
strong brick wall, and conservatively estimated worth $5,000.00.

CHINA

89

free from indebtedness. We then spent the evening in con-
versation. It was indeed a time long to be remembered, be-
cause of the meeting with this band of faithful missionaries.
Brother Keihn and wife having associated with the National
Holiness workers, of course had much to report to them re-
garding their trip to America and return. After a few hours'
conversation on general topics, we finally took up important
business, one of the particular objects of the trip being to con-
sider the correspondence sent by tlio Missionary Department of

CHAPEL NATIONAL HULINI-]SS MISSION. NONGWANTAO

the Xational Holiness Association and that of the National
Holiness Association Special Secretary, Rev. C. W. Ruth, to
the writer with reference to the work it was doing in China
being consolidated with the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene.
In addition to the above mentioned, we now had the privilege
of meeting the missionaries Reverend Ellis and wife of the
American Missionary Board, particular friends of the National
Holiness workers.

Next morning after an early breakfast, we had a delightful

90

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

season of family prayer in the foreign settlement, and at 10 :30
a. m. preached to the congregation of Chinese men and women,
the foreign settlement being also present, including Brother
and Sister Keihn, Miss Flagler, also Reverend Ellis and wife,
of the American Board, here on a special visit to this section.
Brother Troxel interpreted for the writer, as he undertook to
bring the message from Isaiah 40 : 9. In the afternoon, I was
again privileged to preach to the congregation of Chinese men

MIlS. TAYLOll, N. H. A. MISSIONARY, READY FOR TOUR

1 nJ v7omcn, frcm 1 John 1 : 7, 8, 9, 10. In tliis instance Brother
j\rce was the interpreter. We had about two hundred in at-
tendance at both the morning and afternoon service, and ac-
cording to the statement of the missionaries, there were several
earnest seekers for pardon. At night, I preached from John
14 : 12. The dear Lord was present with us to encourage, in-
spire and refresh the saints, each receiving a larger vision of
the possibilities of Divine grace, and were strengthened in our

CHINA ' 91

purpose to pray and to work for the salvation of the lost of
China. Sister Flag'ler was much blessed in this service.
Altogether it was a time of great rejoicing in the foreign set-
tlement, and we all joined in giving thanks to the Lord for His
manifold kindnesses.

Monday, we w^re up and had breakfast at 7 :00. At 8 :30
our sermon to the Chinese preachers and evangelists was from
Matt. 3 :11, Brother Troxel acting as interpreter. He has re-
ported that at least one of the Chinese preachers received the
baptism with the Holy Ghost. Many were much encouraged
because the writer presented Gospel Holiness in the same
manner as the National Holiness missionaries.

This was a most strenuous day, requiring the pix^sence of all
the missionaries, together with the writer, in conference from
10 :00 a. m. till noon, then again in the afternoon, and at night,
the object being a consideration of the interests of the work
of the National Holiness Association and the Pentecostal
Church of the Nazarenc. It was not until we heard the clock
striking midnight that we realized it was time for us to ad-
journ.

Tuesday we spent as on the previous day in conference with
the two bodies represented in the work in China, except we
were absent a short space for inspecting the town, also the brief
intervals devoted to meals.

Wednesday we spent the whole day in considering the work,
and in shaping a policy for the future of the church. First
there was the one outlined in case the union is perfected, then
the other concerned our respective work, should such union not
be consummated. So it was, the multitude of important items
and business asipects occupied our attention until 2 :00 a. m.
before we adjourned to repack our luggage and an-ange for
our further journey.

The mission field hitherto occupied by the workers of the
National Holiness Association lies in Shantung Province, north
of the Hwang-Ho, or as it is popularly called, the Yellow
River. Owing to the fertility of this region, as well as the
influence of Confucianism, which requires the descendants of
families to continue their residence in the natal provinces and
offer religious ministrations for the benefit of departed ances-

92 * WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

tors, as well as to train children to perpetuate the religious ob-
ligations, the population is the densest in all China, numbering
some 36,000,000. Think of a district a little smaller than the
state of Delaware, but with six times the number of inhabitants,
with nine walled cities and approximately five thousand towns
and villages, having only eight missionaries and seven Chinese
evangelists to lead these people into the light of the Gospel.
The people in this field are very religious, too, if judged from
the 25,000 temples and numberless shrines. They worship their
ancestors, fairies or spirits, besides about 3,000 different gods,
but the gods which receive most attention are the "kitchen
gods" and the "god of wealth." There are great numbers of
Mohammedans and Roman Catholics throughout the field. (We
are indebted to Rev. Woodford Taylor for these statistics of
the Shantung Province.) It is also learned from other author-
ities that the population in this province north of the Yellow
River averages from YOO to 1,200 souls to the square mile, and
that the territory assigned the Holiness workers by the Comity
Committee, including the large city of Tungchangfu, with in-
habitants 180,000, and its adjacent country, doubtless embraces
a population of 6,000,000 people. While the National Holiness
workers had already a very large and important field assigned
to them, it seemed absolutely essential they should have the last
named city in order to have a good center for the various de-
partments of religious work. However, as it is one of the rules
of the Comity Committee that a missionary body shoald not have
a larger territory assigned than their ability to care for would
seem to warrant, it was a little doubtful as to whether these
workers would be able to secure the latter territory, being short
of workers for the field already under their operations. So,
feeling it would be pleasing to the Lord for them to give a
portion of their assignment to the people of the Pentecostal
Church of the Nazarene, after prayerful deliberation, they de-
cided upon a very generous cession, including the walled cities
and market towns as well as the larger villages in the valley
lying adjacent to the river. But some of this territory, upon
investigation, proved to be undesirable for the reason that it
is somewhat low, and subject to the overflow from the Yellow
River, therefore, malarial fevers quite prevalent. After taking

CHINA

93

these conditions all into account, the Holiness workers decided
upon a further cession of a strip north of that already given,
the same including the walled town of Chaochenghsien, which
lies at a higher altitude than any of the other walled towns
and is suitable for foreign settlement. Thus the territory that
could probably be reached by the missionaries of the Pentecostal
Church of the Nazarone would bring some million people under
their influence, but should the union be not accomplished, there
would still be the territory along the southern bank of the
Yellow River, with probably as many more people as we now
have, that is 2,000,000 Chinese among whom we could labor, as

HOTEL CHAO CHENG SHIEN

there has never been any amount of consecutive or organized
work in the district.

The writer feels that the National Holiness people are to
be congratulated in having such a splendid combination of
workers in their field. There are located here Rev. Woodford
Taylor and wife, who seem well adapted not only for the ex-
ecutive department, but for the schoolroom, and specially gifted
along medical and dental lines; Rev. Moe and wife are able
educational leaders and perfectly at home with the language;
Rev. Troxel and wife, peculiarly adapted for evangelistic and

94 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

pioneer work; Miss Mary Hill, who recently returned from fnr-
loug-h, has a gift for Bible instruction; while Misses Flagler
and Brown are accomplished businesg women. All of them
except Miss Brown have perfect command of the language,
being able to preach, teach, and converse therein. The latter
is also making rapid progress and will very shortly be able to
take her place among the rest. It seemed very signific nt that
their several gifts were along the lines of such practical service
in the beginning of this great movement in the Chinese Repub-
lic. Certain it is, the labors of this faithful, consecrated band
of men and women have been greatly blessed of the Lord. They
now have ten native preachers, also ten Bible women active in
the work, besides a goodly nimiber of other helpers. They have
recently organized a Chinese holiness church with forty mem-
bers. They have thoroughly canvassed a large territory and
anticipate opening up several new stations.

Thursday we resumed our journey, taking a southerly course,
Rev. Cecil W. Troxcl, field evangelist, and several Chinese
preachers, H. T. Chang, H. C. Wang, and C. H. Li, accompany-
ing us. We were favored with having our same mule carts
and drivers, and an additional pony cart for Brother Troxel
and his preachers.

Having been closeted these several days past in the confer-
ences with the missionaries, it was something of a relief to be
once more out in the open, breathing the cold, fresh air, and
under the clear sky. The roads at times were very dusty, also a
little heavy. Our main object in taking this part of the trip
was that we might visit a portion of the National Mission fields;
also to make necessary inspection of the district recently ceded
by them to the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene, and from
thence to cross the Yellow River and visit Tsaochoufu — the
field of Brother and Sister Keihn's former labors prior to their
furlough in America

The principal places we anticipated visiting in the territory
allotted to us are Kwangcheng, Fanhsien, and Puchow, all
walled cities, and besides these, the walled market towns.

The day was made the more enjoyable because Brother
Troxel was thoroughly acquainted with this territory and
therefore was able to explain to us many of its interesting

CHINA 95

features in conncetion with the different villages through
which we were passing. We stopped for lunch at Wangfengchi,
a small inn similar to those previously described. During the
day we saw many men grazing flocks of sheep and goats on
the wheat fields, a practice permitted at this season of the
year, but one is prohibited under penalty of law from grazing
too closely lest injury result to the crop. Sometimes there are
very exciting scenes attending these grazing herds; the farmers
of one village may try to capture the sheep or goats of another,
if the animals stray, and as there are no wire fences, it is
quite easy for the sheep to wander off from one field to another.
Sometimes, too, the farmers o\\aiing the herd may trespass on
a neighbor; again, the men of the village desiring to make a
feast will go out and frighten a farmer's flock and scattering
them from him, drive them over on a neighbor's farm, and
proceed to take him to court for trespassing. Then, getting
judgment against him, they are allowed to take his sheep. Thus
provisioned, they will slaughter the animals, and make a great
feast for the village. During the day we passed by a number
of pear and plum orchards. There seems also to be quite en
industry in hogs, especially black ones, in this part of the
country. It is a noted section for peanuts, and, after the sift-
ing of the soil to abstract all the product possible, the fields
are turned over to the swine to get what they can out of
them. Where they sift the ridges, the dirt is piled in little
mounds such as falls from a sieve. We had passed on from
here, and now stopped at Changlouchi, having made a good
run of 90 lis, 30 miles. The sand being quite deep, the driving
was heavy, consequently our mules and ponies were much ex-
hausted when we put up for night at the city inn. We suc-
ceeded in getting an early start on Friday. The weather con-
tinued clear and cool, and the roads, while sandy, were fairly
good. Before long we drew up at Chaochenghsein, a prospective
station of the National Holiness missionaries. Brother Troxel
having been here many times and preached to the people on
the streets, was quite at home, and was able to give us much
valuable information. This is one of the walled towns that
the National Holiness workers had given us in addition to
the original grant of territory, and the plnce where our mis-

96

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

sionaries, Brotlier Keihn and wife and Miss Sims, are now
carrying on our work. There are several buildings, including
a chapel facing on the street, a room for Chinese helpers, also
one for a small dispensary, and another for Chinese women;
besides a suite of rooms which can be fixed up as the residence
of a foreign missionary superintendent and his famliy.

The entire property is rented at $130.00 per month, equal to

FRONT VIEW MISSION AT CHAO
CHENG SHIEN

$65.00 American money. The Chinese preachers, Brothers
Wang and Chang, carried on the work in this station prior to
its being turned over to our Pentecostal missionaries. It seems
a very good center, being like the palm of the hand with fin-

CHINA

97

gers reaching to Nankwantao, fifty miles ditsant; Shen Hsien,
15 miles; Yan Ku, 15 miles; Shou Chang, 15 miles; Fan Hsien,
10 miles; Kwan Cheng, 15 miles. The people, as usual, gath-
ered in great crowds in front of the mission, also blocked the
street as may be seen by the accompanying picture.

At early sundown, we were glad to put in at the walled
village, Kwanchengsien, the most northern of the three towns
which the National Holiness workers had granted to us. We
had also traveled the same distance, thirty miles, as on the
previous day.

The writer agreed with Brother Troxel that this walled town

• "TTINESE STREET CROWD IN FRONT OF OUR MISSION AT
CHAO CHENG SHIEN

would make a good missionary station, there being but one
question as to its desirability, the one which we have men-
tioned before — that is, its low level, making it subject to over-
flow of the Yellow River, gives it a malarial tendency, thus
decreasing its value for the missionaries' home, since the health
might be affected by these conditions.

After a refreshing evening meal prepared by Sister Keihn,
the writer, accompanied by Brother Troxel called on the
head official of the city. We were met by the gate-keeper.

98 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

then by a special man of the official household, who ushered us
into the office, immediately haying us served with tea. This,
however, we declined, as we were calling on the official, and
not the official's servants. That is, the officers of these walled
cities have each their official lackeys and soldier bodyguards.
The head officer now came forward and asked us for our cards.
Later a servant told us the official liad beon sick in bed with
a cold, but would arise and see such distinguished guests. After
some delay the soldier lighted a long candle, placed it in a lan-
tern about the size of a half -barrel, lout it on a tripod, then,
accompanied by several attendants, escorted us into a
large room having a long table and a few chairs, and com-
manded us to be seated. Soon the official came in — a young
man of delicate appearance, clearly showing traces of his ill-
ness. Tea being brought, he gave each of us a cup, which he
filled, and which we were to drink. Brother Troxel now did
the talking, afterwards the writer spoke through him as
interpreter — the interview occupying about seven minutes.
Then we sipped the tea to express our appreciation. He asked
to be excused from returning our call on account of his in-
disposition — Chinese etiquette requiring a state call to be
returned by the official accompanied by his servants and soldier
bodyguard fifteen minutes after the visitors shall have re-
turned to their home. He also said he would call in the morn-
ing; but as our special object was to arrange that the gates
might be opened so as to let us pass through very early, we
could not remain to receive him. It is the custom for the city
gates to be closed, and after the great padlocks are attached
the official seal is applied, at 9:00 p. m. In particularly turbu-
lent times, these are closed as early as (> :00 o'clock. If the
seal covering the lock is broken, the fact is at once reported to
the head official, and immediately he sets afoot inquiries to
ascertain whether any foreigners may have left the city. There
were many robbers infesting the country at the time, hence it
was that unusual precautions were being taken. The brigands
being strong in numbers, better arm.ed than the soldier de-
fenders, and fearless, are dreaded by them. Then, too, the
outlaws often have accomplices inside the city walls among
the very men a])pointed by the government for its defense who,

CHINA

99

for a share in the plunder, betray their trust. Again, a system
of extortion from wealthy business men exists, who, rather
than have the place molested, will pay a bonus of bribe money.
Saturday morning we were up at 3 :00 o'clock, because a very
long trip had been planned. First, in order to reach Tsao-
choufu, the former home of Brother and Sister Keihn, and be
protected for the night; secondly, because Brother Troxel and
two of the Chinese preachers were to leave us at this point.
Brother Troxel was certainly a kind and interesting friend —
a strong man of God, tried and true, and we had sweet fellow-
ship with him. He had rendered our party much valuable
service, greatly stimulating our faith, and through the blessing

LANDING FROM FERRY, OVERFLOW RIVER

of the Lord had enlarged our vision to the ijossibilities of the
work in China.

Though the weather was favorable, the roads were still
heavy, and we only made 45 li on the morning drive, reaching
Puchow about noon. This city has a much greater population
and more extensive business interests than the place from which
we had just come, but being considerably nearer the Yellow
River, the overflow often touches within three miles of it, con-
sequently, because of malarial tendencies, it might not prove
a desirable homo for foreign residents. However, it would be

100 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

a valuable center from which to carry on missionary operations
through the agency of native preachers and workers.

After a brief period for lunch, for we were anxious to cross
the Yellow River before nightfall, we pressed on, arriving at
the bank of the overflow at 2 :00 p. m. As may be imagined by
the accomi^anying picture, the overflow river inundates a wide
section of country. We learned that in October previous, after
a series of heavy rains, it had broken its dikes fifteen miles
above where we were crossing, the flood sweeping everything
before it. Now, after the lapse of six months, there still re-
mains an overflow which, though shallow, is probably a half
mile wide, and being treacherous, imposes imminent risk upon
travel and traffic embarking there — for the ferries are only
rudely constructed affairs.

The Wliang-Ho, or Yellow River, has had many channels,
and is peculiarly subject to floods. Its present bed is 300 niiles
north of that occupied in 1854, the writer's birth year. The
last occasion when it escaped its banks was in 1887, when,
owing to an embankment giving away, a great plain as large
as Scotland was suddenly and without warning turned into a
raging sea, destroying thousands of towns and villages, and
according to official and generally accepted estimate, 1,600,000
people were swept away, while 5,000,000 others were rendered
entirely destitute. This river has long since earned the title
of China's Sorrow. Every year it brings down conti-
nents of loess to the sea, and together with the Yang-Tse has
pushed back the borders of the ocean, and built up China's
vast plain.

To resume our journey. After the transit, we hastily hitched
our mules in, and proceeded on our way with as much speed
as possible, for the sun was now low in the Western sky. After
making about three miles, we came to the Whang-Ho. As a
precaution to any freak of the river, the government has taken
the water out of the great canal, fearing lest it should break
the dike, and using the canal, find its way to Peking, doing
thereby immeasurable damage to life and property. We had
approached this river with considerable misgiving, having been
informed by the various missionaries that either shore was
unstable, the current swift, and the channel uncertain, and that

BOARDING FERRY NORTH SHORE YELLOW RIVER

LANDING FROM FERRY SOUTH SHORE YELLOW RIVER

101

102 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

its passage mig-lit even require as much as forty-eight hours.
We were veiy happily disappointed in this, for it took only
thirty-five minutes to effect the crossing-, besides we found the
channel quite deep at this place. The wind also was favorable
and assisted us in our efforts. Notwithstanding the crossing
was so quickly made, we yet had an exciting experience when
embarking on the ferry for the opposite shore. The swift cur-
rent had been undercutting the bank, while the extra weight
with the motion from our carts and animals as we were being
loaded on, caused a great slumping of the bank, and we were
almost precipitated down stream with it. The boat having
been caught under part of the side was very nearly swamped.
However, we were soon safely landed. Either shore of this
river is very treacherous, though it may not overflow both op-
posite banks at the same time. Frequently there will be a
slight elevation on one side, and on the opposite shore, the land
will stretch away long miles in low, flat plains. It was at one
of the higher points that we boarded the ferry. Our mules
were soon hitched in and we resumed our journey. Meanwhile
we were conscious that the sun was fast approaching the horizon,
also that we had to drive a long distance before a village inn
for our accommodation could be found. Having had three
days' continuous hard journeying, being unable to reach our
desired haven, Tsaochoufu, we were glad to put in for the night
at Takow; for the distance had proved much greater than an-
ticipated at JSTankwantao, where we had consulted the map, and
outlined a route. The drivers, too, being very tired, were slow
to push on, so we had to submit and rest for the night, stop-
ping at a small inn having no windows, no door — a few kafRr
corn stalks set up for protection — no raised places for our beds,
just the flat, dirt floor.

During our drive on Saturday we passed through a country
very sim_ilar to that on previous days, the land being given
over wholly to farming. The pictures will give the reader an
idea of the method a farmer uses in preparing the soil for its
crop. As we stopped, Ave found great crowds of people await-
ing us, and the usual difficulties in preparing our meals, the
curious throng pressing into the yard and even into the house.
The picture will give the reader some conception of the ap-

A CHINESE FARMER

VIEW OF CROWD AT CHAO CHENG SHIEN, SHOWING PAD-
DED GARMENTS AND METHOD OF CARRYING BABIES

103

104 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

pearance of the motly assembly, in their thickly padded winter
costumes. Note the little babies' faces showing from their
mothers' garments. In China the babies do not wear clothing,
being kept warm by being carried next the body of the women.
That is, this is the custom in this section.

On resuming our journey we stopped at Congshikao to feed
our animals and have lunch. This seemed a very poor
country, and the roads, if we can call them such, were very
heavy. The inn was, possibly, more dilapidated than any we
had previously entered, as were also all the surroundings. How-
ever, being refreshed with a light lunch, we pressed on as soon
as the mules had had time to eat a little provender. Here we
encountered a wind and sand storm, after which the sun burst
through with exceeding great heat. At 3 :00 p. m. we arrived at
Tsaochoufu, and had the usual accompaniment of crowd. A
number of Chinese men and women following us from our en-
trance into the city, now^ recognized Brother and Sister Tveihn,
who had formerly worked among them. One elderly man ran
along side the cart for more than a mile, then a few blocks
from the city darted off ahead to give intelligence of our ap-
proach to the missionaries, these being the Rev. Jonathan
Shrage and wife, and Miss Eetzlaff, who made us very welcome.
Brother Kcihn's old cook, John the Chinaman, who was in their
service before they took their furlough, was still there, and
overjo5^ed to see them, as were also many of the Chinese Chris-
tian converts, who came in during the afternoon. At this sta-
tion we found a good house for the missionaries, and were
soon shown to a large, airy room with the usual facilities for
bathing and resting. After a little while we were summoned
to the dining room, where we were seated at a long table cov-
ered with beautiful white linen, ai)pearing to us whiter than
any linen we had ever before seen. Probably because our eyes
had been so long unaccustomed to the sight, as we drove in
the sand and stopped at the native inns during the tedious
journey just behind us, we were in a condition to appreciate
it more. After this bountiful repast, and a word of refreshing
prayer, we accompanied Brothers Shrage and Keihn to the top
of the wall, unusually high and strongly constructed, which

CHINA 105

enabled lis to jict a comprehensive view much more readily
than would otherwise have been obtainable. Our host and
his good wife were considerate of our time, and allowed us to
have a room to ourselves at 8 :00 o'clock. We very much ap-
preciated this kindness on their part. So we had a good night's
rest to atone for the hardships of the trip just passed over, a
privilege we had not enjoyed since leaving the home of the
National Holiness workers.

Awakening on the morrow, we found it raining very hard.
Breakfast over, we preached to the foreign people, from John
4 :1-14 and John 7 : 37, and the dear Lord was present and
wondrously refreshed our souls. Service over, our friends,
again showing themselves thoughtful of our time, and having
the room to ourselves, we spent the day largely in clerical work.

The evening was taken up by a conference mth the mis-
sionaries and an endeavor to make proper disposition of the
property which prior to Brother Keihn's furlough had been held
in common.

Wednesday the storm was still raging, but colder, at times
the rain turning into snow or sleet; we were deterred from
visiting the adjacent villages and cities as planned by Brother
Keihn. Especially had we intended to see the Bartell Mission,
about a day's drive from Tsaochoufu. But, as we have said,
owing to the protracted storm, and our limited time, we were
unable to carry out our purpose in the matter. Besides this,
we learned of several cases of smallpox in the place, and deem.ed
it unwise to unduly expose ourselves. Consequently, we had
to leave the subsequent adjustment of mission affairs there to
the Bartell people and Brother Keihn. We have since learned
that they were able to come to an amicable settlement. This
station had recently been organized under the Mennonites. At
this point, we had to bid farewell to Sister Keihn and Master
Arnold, as they were to remain here while Brother Keihn ac-
companied the writer to Tsinanfu, where he secured their
goods, and took them to Tsaochoufu, as they are to remain iA
the place several months, making it headquarters while they
tour the country north of the Yellow River, recently ceded to
us. Notwithstanding the severe storm, we succeeded after much
palaver in getting our drivers to consent to start, then with

106 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

mule carts backed up to the g-ate, we were soon loaded iu with
our bag-gage and a fresh supplj^ of food.

Our party consisted of Brother Keihn and the Chinese
preacher, Brother C. H. Li, and the writer, with our same m.ule
carts and drivers. Our course at this time lay a little southeast,
and led through a great section bordering on the Yellow River,
which we had desired to investigate and see what the Lord
might order. Given a good team and favorable roads, Tsin-
ning-fhow, our next landing station, should have been reached
in one day. However, considering the difficulties due to the
severe storm and very heavy roads, we thought we would be
happy to make connection with our train by Friday, as we
would then be able to reach Tsinanfu Saturday morning, thus
giving: us an opportunity to go up to the capital of the Empire,
Peking-, for a day or so. But we were disappointed in the
realization of these plans, for the weather continued cloudy,
the roads were muddy. The wind came from the north, and
occasionally heavy snows would interfere, and it was very cold.
The land seemed particularly fertile at this point. We passed
many orchards on the way, and some belts of cotton wood trees,
also several kind of trees with nuts similar to our English wal-
nut. Several large market villages as well as numerous smaller
ones now came into view. We made 55 li without stopping to
feed, and put in for the night at the walled market place of
Shatutsi.

The writer was certainly g-rateful for the splendid box of
foodstuffs which Sisters Shrage and Keihn had prepared for
us, and Brother Keihn, an expert at serving lunches, with
the kind assistance of Brother Li, also very handy, soon had
it on the table.

Thursday found us up at 5 ox-lock, and after our usual
lunch of sandwiches and coffee, we had a Bible reading- from
Acts on the Gift of the Holy Spirit, Brother Keihn inter-
preted, and Brother Li, our Chinese preacher whom the National
Holiness workers had kindly let us have for the work, reading
the alternate verses. I was prompted by the Spirit to press
the matter home with him, he having told Brother Keihn that
now seeing- this gift was for him also, he would seek it in
prayer. Later when we inquired if he had received the Holy

CHINA 107

Spirit, lie said he was happ5% and that he believed the Comforter
had entered his heart, and joined us in praising the Lord. So
if only he alone shall continue in this faith, we will be repaid
manifold times for the hard trip over 400 miles into the
interior.

In the morning', we succeeded in getting our drivers started
about 7 :00 o'clock. It was cloudy, and the roads muddy where
they were not sandy. After walking about an hour, we packed
ourselves into the cart until 1 :30 p. m., when we put up as
before at an inn in the village of Waotien. During the day the
land over which we were passing seemed much more fertile, and
the trees more abundant. Later in the afternoon there was rain
and sleet, till at last, we put in at the walled city of Cbuyehhsien,
a place of about 10,000 people. After much searching, our team-
ster succeeded in finding the best inn of the place. Perhaps
you will pardon a description of it : One room 14 x 22 feet, mud
walls, paper windows, with paper out, one door with sufficient
space at bottom for small animals to find their way in and
out, one table, three benches with straw seats, and earthen floor
very damp because of the rain. As the weather was so damp
and chilly we concluded to try the native method of warming
ourselves, so purchased some kaffir corn stalks and built a fire
in the midle of the room on the floor. But the smoke was so
much worse to endure than the cold, we .soon gave it up, and
brushed what fire was left into the snow. However, we had
heated a few pieces of slabs which were found by the building,
and put these at our feet while we attended to some much
needed correspondence. Brother Keihn succeeded in spreading
another good supper for us, which we enjoyed, and after taking
a few flashlight pictures, we were glad to retire.

Friday, our twenty-first day in China ! We were up in good
season, but a hea^^^^ snow was falling, and the drivers not
willing to go forward; but after much palaver and argument
from Brother Keihn and preacher Li, we succeeded in getting
them to harness the mules and back up the cart. Wo were
soon loaded in, and continued on our journey until 12 :00,
having made only about eight miles on account of the heavy
roads and constantly increasing fury of the storm. The drivers
stopped at the first village, Yanglou. The snow continued to

108 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

fall and the roads became almost impassable. The drivers
protested against proceeding, but finally promised when they
were warmed and the mnlos had had time to eat a little prov-
ender they would go on, as this was an exceedingly poor town
for either man or beast. However, at 2 :00 o'clock they gave
us their ultimatum, absolutely refusing to go another step.
So we remained at this apology of an inn at Yanglou. After
lunch, we got to work and with blanket wrapped about us, and
the hot water bottle at our feet, we were able for some hours
to run our typewriter. We were not favored in having this
inn to ourselves, a part of it being occupied by a Chinese^
farmer, who was taking his supply of grain to the market on
a wheelbarrow, and finding it impossible to proceed, had been
obliged to put in here. Ho had deposited his goods in one
end of the room and kept watch, lest somebody should steal
som.ething. I have several times mentioned the unwillingness
of the drivers to journey either before light or after sundown,
or in times of storm, and indeed I can not very much blame
them, for the country being full of robbers and assassins, it is
not considered safe to travel either before day or after night-
fall, lest they should suffer molestation and be robbed of their
scanty earnings, perhaps, even be killed. Then in times of
storm, they do not wish to press on, because they are not pro-
vided with raincoats or extra wraps for cold weather, and their
clothing being all made of cotton, is easily penetrated by the
rain. Their shoes, also made of cotton, get soaked. In this mat-
ter the Chinese differ from the Japanese, who do not protect
the feet. Should the poor fellows sicken from the exposure, there
is no one to care for them.

I mention this with some other incidents to show the type
of life our missionaries mnst live at all times, and not to pro-
voke sympathy for myself. They must endure hardships, pri-
vations, long, tiresome, perilous journeys, exposure to cold, rain,
and contagion, and rarely encounter comforts to cheer them in
the way, as they go about trying to help the unhappy people.
The modes of travel and places of entertainment as you have
seen, are indescribably poor, then in the warmer weather often
one can not remain inside the inns at all on account of the
scourge of bedbugs, fleas, scorpions, and other vermin which

CHINA 109

infest them. Besides, there is always the risk of contracting
smallpox or leprosy. The winter, therefore, notwithstanding its
cold, snows and every now and then a heavy, blinding sand-
storm w^hipping one in the face, is considered the best season
for travel. There is no brighter or more bracing winter cli-
mate than is to be found in China. We speak of these things
so the Missionary Board and the supporters of the work may
know what our faithful workers must endure all the time, and
what the obstacles are that hinder the work which they are
expected to carry on and bring to success. They may be out
for weeks at a time, and these inns are the only i^laces in
which they have to lodge at night.

In the morning we found the snow still piling up, and
were surprised to see fifteen Chinese women hobbling along in
the mud and slush, a staif in one hand, a bundle in the other,
most of them past fifty years of age, I judged by their faces.
They were smiling and chatting. While wondering what could
have brought them out on a day like this, we were informed
that they were pilgrims, returning from a noted temple some
125 miles distant, where they had been to worship during the
Xew Year's holidays! Think of it! they had gone the whole
distance, walking both ways on their crippled, feet, to worship
gods of stone, who could hear no prayers and give them no
help. Should I think it hard, then, to journey for the Lord
of Life, when He has so richly blessed me in health, in happy
conditions of living, in the power to know Him as He is, and
to think on the truth which everywhere doth abound. Nay,
I do not feel it a hardship to do some of these things for Him.
My Lord died for them as well as for me and all mankind. Li
fact, as I reflected on their sincere though ignorant devotion
to their gods of stone, or wood, as the case may be, my soul was
stirred to a greater loyalty; and I felt that if it were necessary
and posible, I was willing to make far greater sacrifices for the
service of the Lord, in order to carry the Gospel to these poor,
deluded creatures.

Saturday morning, we were able to leave Yanglou about
8 :00 o'clock. The ground was covered with snow, and the
country presented a charming aspect. The roads were difficult
and slow.

110

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

On this side the Yellow River, we found the same monoto-
nous level, and were not slow to notice the variation when at
length we came upon some rocky elevations, perhaps, 300 or 400
feet high, crowned hy a temple with stone gods covering the
whole eminence. This was the more striking as all through
our previous days of travel, we had not seen a stone of any
kind as large as a man's fist. We noticed that the rock in
this section was employed, to a certain extent, in the construc-
tion of buildings; but most of the houses were made of wood
rather than stone, though as we proceeded to the eastern portion
of the town, some stone buildings were in evidence.

ENTERING THE LAST WALLED CITY ON TRIP TO INTERIOR

About noon, we came to Chiayehhsien, the last walled citj
at which we stopped during our trip into the interior. The
acompanying picture will give the reader a good idea of the
wall and gate where we entei*ed. The walls of the building
where we stopped for lunch were very good; the interior, how-
ever, was about the same as described previously. The picture
will give an idea of the surroundings and the distant hill with
temple on top, all enclosed by a high and well-constructed wall.

Brother Keihn had ordered a Chinese dinner of prepared

CHINA

111

mutton with onions and scraniblfd eg^», togxither with hot
coffee, and after we had partaken of it, we were quite re-
freshed. About 1 :30 in the afternoon, we resumed our way
east. The snowfall was much lighter today, and soon disap-
peared when the sun came out quite warm and bright. We
presently came on to a great flat plain stretching away as far
as we could see; and which continued until we reached Tsining-

HOTEL, CHIAYEHHSIEN

chow. After a little we reached the grand canal and mounted
the dike about 4 p. m., pursuing our journey on this raised
ground along its top until we reached the city of Tsiningchow,
just mentioned. We were glad at this time to have an oppor-
tunity to walk a little distance. A few boats were seen on the
canal, most of them being towed by two or three men to each

112 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

boat. The gTouiid was very fertile, and there were many small
villages. The canal itself, much higher than the surrounding
country, is kept in channel by great dikes. We entered the
city of Tsiningchow about 0 :00 o'clock, but it took us more
than an hour to find an inn near the railway.

This is the second largest city in Shantung Province. It
has a variety of streets eight to twelve feet in width, none
wider than twelve feet; and the paving even more diverse, rang-
ing from deep mud to stone slabs. However, as all the streets
were lower than the doors of the stores and houses, the water
was standing in them to such a depth as made them well-nigh
impassable to the pedestrian. The North Presbyterians have
a hospital here, also a boys' and girls' school, it being the center
of their southern work. They having been the first missionaries
in this field. They carry on their labors in the country for
two hundred miles around. Had the weather and roads been
such as to permit, w^e should have used the opportunity to
visit and investigate some of their undertakings.

We put up at an inn of several apartments. All were about
the same size, but possibly ours was a little the best, as being
foreigners we were given the preference. It was near dark when
we entered it.

After enjoying supper, we made the best preparations pos-
sible for the Sabbath, and retired for much needed rest.
When we resumed our journey we rose early and were loaded
with our baggage for the last time into the carts and
driven to the railway station over a mile distance outside of
the city wall, this being the terminal of the Yenchowfu branch
of the Tsinanfu-Puchow Railway. Having effected a safe
landing at the station, we loaded our things into a third-class
car, very similar to our freight box cars, except it had seats
running lengthwise and small windows on the side. Our train
started at 11 :00 o'clock, and we made the first twenty miles
safely, and at Yenchowfu made connections with the main
line. While waiting here, we embraced the opportunity to
procure a Chinese lunch — some kind of hash and pastry — I
didn't undertake to analyze it. Our train being an hour late,
it was considerably after noon before we got started again. In
the same car with us were three men bound together with iron

CHINA

113

chains about their necks on their way to the capital for trial
in a supposed robbery and murder case. A o-reat longing arose
in my heart to converse with these men, but I realized more
than ever my helplessness without the language, and also of
the necessity of missionaries giving their first attention to the
mastery of same; for I am more than ever impressed with the
fact that without command of the language our worker is more
or less like a carpenter trying to work without tools.

We had proceeded but a little way on our journey, when

GRAVE OF CONFUCIUS

we had a very pleasant surprise from Brother Gcisler, who
boarded the car, and rode a number of hours with us, but hold-
ing a first-class ticket, he was at last obliged to return to the
first-class apartment, in order not to forfeit same; but he sent
in refreshments of hot tea and sandwiches which we greatly
enjoyed. A few miles from Yenchowfu, the scenery began to
be mountainous, and became delightful as we advanced, unfold-
ing in ever-increasing charm most picturesque and beautiful.
I suspect, too, it was the more captivating because of the relief

114 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

it was to escape from the monotony and dead level of the end-
less plains over which we had come for the past sixteen days.
During our trip, we passed by the home and tomb of Confucius;
also through the noted city of Chiifu. It was at this latter
place we obtained a fine view of the noted mountain where
100,000 pilgrims go annually to worship the god of sun, god of
health, god of prosperity, and the grandmother god. It is
also noted for its temple and Gate of Heaven, there being over
7,000 steps cut out in the solid rock leading up to this temple
and temple gate. We now reached Tsinanfu, getting into the
station an hour late, but we had made the entire distance of
145 miles in what seemed to us very rapid traveling, compared
with that we had lately experienced in going with mules and
carts. On arriving at the station, a 'rikisha soon carried us
to the home of Brother and Sister Geisler, where we made
ourselves presentable for supper. Our host, taken quite seri-
ously ill, was obliged to retire early. The rest of the family,
however, enjoyed the evening, singing, reading the Bible, and
joining in prayer.

Tuesday was a very busy day arranging our trunks,
valises, etc., and holding several conferences with our mis-
sionaries, Brother Keihn and Sister Sims, dis(us^in'>" rnd
framing an outline for the work in the territory which hrd
recently been assigned by the ISTational Holiness workers. We
also deemed it wise that Brother Keihn and the Chinese preacher
should make a tour along each side of the Yellow River, thus
gathering the necessary knowledge with reference to the popula-
tion, altitude, sanitation of the country, and details for fixing
on some definite location for headquarters, until the Home
Boards of the National Holiness people and the Pentecostal
Church of the Nazarene should have opportunity to make ar-
rangements for the consummation of the union so much de-
sired. Arrangements were also made for Sister Sims to re-
main at the home of Brother and Sister Geisler until Brother
and Sister Keihn shall have decided upon a suitable place for
a mission station.

The time having arrived to make connection wdth our
train, we had a season of prayer with our friends and their
household, and bidding them and Sister Sims good-bye, were

CHINA 115

accompanied to the station by Brothers Keihn and Geisler, and
Mr. Young, a friend of the Geisler family. Having secured
tickets, and our baggage being loaded on, we had another
season of prayer in the car, then the final farewells were said.
Owing to the disturbed condition of the country, my friends
advised me to secure a first-class ticket. I also felt the need
for a little rest, and by doing this I hoped to obtain a sleeper.
However, the train was so crowded I failed in this, and was
obliged to spend the night in my chair, but the Lord permitted
me to secure a little needed sleep, for which I was very thankful.
Wednesday morning found us still en route for Shanghai.
It was a delightful day. We had a very early breakfast. De-
siring to improve the time as much as possible, I spent it in
taking care of much correspondence, which had accumulated
at Tsinanfu while the writer was on the trip to the interior.
Consequently we were closely occupied until about 5 :00 o'clock,
when we arrived at Pucho. This being a terminal of the
railway, we embarked on the ferry, to make connections for
Shanghai at Nanking. While en route on the Tsinanfu-Pucho
branch, we formed a pleasant acquaintance with Miss Doctor
Stephenson, of India, who was met by her college friends,
Professor and Mrs. Stewart, the writer also being invited to
accompany them to their home, some four miles distant on the
inside of the walled part of the city. Inasmuch as it was six
hours to train time, we were glad to embrace this opportunity.
We had a most interesting ride through the interior of the
city, and on reaching the hom.e of Brother Stewart found he
was in charge of the Y. M. C. A. training school of that city,
having about fifty students taking the seven months language
course. Many of the old missionaries believe this is a cheaper
and more economical way of studying the language than under
a private instructor, and they also believe more ^apid progress
is made. We then took a walk to a noted place located on the
top of a high hill, enclosed by the wall. This gave us a splendid
chance to gather information concerning the city in a very
brief space. As the sun was now fast reaching the Western
horizon, we returned with our host to enjoy a pleasant repast
and social hour, and then were driven to a hotel outside the
wall to await the departure of our train.

116 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

To the reader this may st^em a little strange, but the great
double gates are closed and locked at 9 :00 o'clock, and it is
almost impossible for persons living on the inside to effect an
entrance once these are closed. Professor Stewart found himself
somewhat embarrassed, as the time had almost expired, but
being acquainted with the gatekeeper, he obtained their promise
to allow him to enter if he would return in fifteen minutes. We
were soon safely landed at the hotel lobby, where we found our
baggage awaiting us and hurriedly said good-bye to our kind
friend and trusted that he might not be shut out of the city.

As stated in the earlier part of our narrative, Nanking is
a place of frequent disturbances, and in the recent rebellion
the demonstration assumed such an aggravated form the rebels
took possession of the streets, and looted or burned to ashes
over $11,000,000 in value of the splendid business portion out-
side the walls. Much of the debris still remains, with the ex-
ception that here and there an owner with unusual energy has
begun reconstruction, with a view of re-establishing his business.

The writer had better fortune than formerlj^ at this station
and secured a sleeper for the journey to Shanghai.

Our train pulled into Shanghai exactly on time, at T :00
o'clock. We were met on the train by the chief porter from
Mr. Edward Evan's Missionary Home, as before leaving Tsin-
anfu we had telegraphed ahead advising that we would arrive
on that train. The telegraphic service is now installed at the
railway stations all over China.

This man took entire charge of the writer and his baggage,
which arrangement was cheerfully acquiesced in, since being
thrown on my own- resources, and not able to converse with
any one in Chinese (no other being available), I was entirely
dependent. After he had arranged for my baggage, I insisted
on his iDrocuring one of the vehicles used in ancient transpor-
tation — the wheelbarrow — for up to this time I had not taken
a wheelbarrow ride, but had ridden in mule-carts, 'rikishas,
tramways, and finally the railroad cars. He protested, and only
after much pressure on our part he finally did proceed to secure
the wheelbarrow and load the writer and his luggage on the
same. I enjoyed the ride through the city to the mission
home; but as the foreigner is supposedly above such modes of

117

118 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

conveyance, we furnished much amusement to the natives, as
well as to foreigners we chanced to meet on the way. The
reader may get a more comprehensive view of this kind of travel
by the accompanying picture.

Arriving at the mision home, we were assigned to the same
room previously occupied when Brother Keihn w^as with us.
Wc found a large amount of mail awaiting us, and certainly
were thankful to hear from our family, and the workers and
work at home. The day was exceedingly trying on account of
not having a guide. However, with the assistance of the
'rikisha, a man selected by the chief porter to wheel it, who,
I was assured, knew just where we wanted to go, and I
need not give myself any worry, I set oif on my errands. First
visiting the oiS.ce of the North German Lloyd Steamship Com-
pany, I arranged for my booking on the steamship Derjf linger,
advertised to sail on the 29th. However, the captain had de-
cided to leave on the 28th, depriving me of a third of the time
which I had counted on spending here in Shanghai. During
the day I had what was rather a serious but yet a most amusing
experience. The 'rikisha man, I was informed, knew exactly
where I wanted to go, and as I had not the merchant's personal
address, I had trusted to him. The way seemed rather long,
although there was much of interest en route, and I noticed
that the 'rikisha man went up and down one street after an-
other, in rather a puzzled manner and finally began showing
increasing signs of excitement, while the perspiration stood
out in great beads over his forehead. At last he stood stock
still and began gesticulating wildy, until I realized I was lost,
as he had no idea of where I wished to go. I did n't know
what to do more than to pray to the Lord to deliver me out of
my dilema. So, gathering myself together, I recalled the best
I could from my former brief stay the location we were now
in, and, pointing up the street, succeeded in getting our direc-
tion, then, after another hour's ride, we came to the place for
which I was seeking. This taught me never again to trust
wholly to the chief porter, or 'rikisha man, but provide myself
with the address of places I wished to visit, or else to employ
a special guide, and thus save myself embarrassment. The

CHINA

119

scL-iicry Avas iniprcssivc while the man was wandering about,
especially a view from a very fine bridg-e.

All of the daylight was employed in attending to business
affairs, and securing items necessary for the trip to India, so
correspondence had to be left for a late hour at night.

Friday, we were permitted to visit the old Chinese city
of Shanghai in company with Miss Smith, and Sister Snider,
who was stopping with this friend while waiting for the steam-
ship Dci'fflinger, en route for home. Through the courtesy of
]\Iiss Smith and one of the Japanese preacher-students in tlic

RIVER SCENE, SHANGHAI

Angarrack Japanese Mission, we were shown the places of
interest. It looked about the same as all the rest of the old
Chinese cities, with crowded, filthy, narrow streets some eight
or ten feet wide. We desired very much to have made some
purchases to carry home with us, but didn't dare to trust our
own judgment in the matter, for the Chinese, like other for-
eigners, always take advantage of the whiteface. Progress
has planted her foot firmly in Shanghai, this city on the banks
of Wusung, and from her safe abiding place in the foreign
city, is surely, slowly, but inevitably to invade and overcome the
whole vast empire! It has been within the recent past, the

120 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

center of progroi^sive ideas and inHuences, and so may be ex-
pected to remain indefinitely in the future. Much of this is
due to contact of its leaders with foreign diplomats and busi-
ness men, and foreign arms. Whatever may be its future will
be due directly or indirectly to the guiding impulse given by
the 8,000 imperial white race, rather than to the brute force of
the toiling millions of Turanians swarming within the crum-
bling walls of the ancient Chinese city.

Having spent all the time we could in a survey of this city,
we now returned with our party to the home of Sister Snider,
where we met the Rev. Mr. Wright, of England, and Miss
Hill, the Associate Missionary worker with Sister Smith. Miss
Hill, for a long time had been lying at death's door, but was
now regaining her health, and it was a benediction to see her
face shining and hear her praise the Lord. We were much
blessed in the reading of the Word and the prayers of these
precious saints. *

As our steamer had been advertised to leave the wharf at
5 :00 p. m., we found it quite difiicult to complete our packing
of luggage and filling our several engagements. Lighter gar-
ments had also to be secured, as we were soon to enter the
tropics; but by an unusual efi^ort, we succeeded in juggling
things into the trunks so they could be taken down to the
ship. We then rushed over to Sister Smith's mission, and
preached to her interesting class of Japanese college students.
We were much blessed in our soul, while w^e preached on the
promise and importance of the baptism with the Holy Ghost.
One of the students acted as our interpreter. My own heart
was warmed as I saw their faces light up when they realized
that this promise was to them. I spoke about twenty-five min-
utes, and this, with the time occupied in interpretation, was
about an hour. Feeling that Sister Smith better understood the
pupils than I myself, I urged her to give the exhortation, which
she did in a few brief and fitting words. We then hastened to
the pier. I say we, for Miss Snider was to resume her journey
on the steamer Derjflinrjer. Rev. Mr. Wright, Miss Smith,
and several of the student body accompanied us to the wharf,
and bade us God-speed, singing some sweet songs, and giving
us a warm handshake at parting. Soon we felt our launch

CHINA 121

moving out into the curront, and heard the bells chiming; 6:00
o'clock. In a few moments we were alongside our good ship,
which, on account of the low tide, had been oblig^ed to anchor
two miles down stream.

The writer was shown to his room, number 210, second cabin,
the baggage brought in, and the boys tipped a second time, as
they were dissatisfied with the first amount given them. We
made hasty preparations, and were ready to respond when the
gong sounded for supper. A good meal was enjoyed in a large
dining room. The clean, wliitie linen, neatly dressed officers,
courteous waiters, food nicely cooked and served, imx)ressed us
with the sharp contrast in travel by mule-carts.

Supper over, we found mail could be dispatched at 10:00
o'clock; so dispensed with everything else, and worked hard
to get off letters to the Home Board and our loved ones, it
being nearly midnight when I finally laid aside my work .and
retired for a little rest.

Saturday, February 28th, our steamer weighed anchor at
6 :15, making slow progress until about noon, when we suc-
ceeded in getting over the bar and out into the bay, and now
the wind being at the stern we made rapid progress. It was
not until 4 o'clock in the afternoon that we got out into the
clear water, out of the presence of the yellow, muddy current
which he Yang-tse pours far out into the sea. We watched
the long, receding, monotonous shore, fringed by reeds and
low, straggling willows along the margin, and were reminded
of the disappointment which overcomes the voyager at his
entrance to this seaport, and remains with him during all his
journeyings throughout the delta plains, however extensive they
may be.

On leaving Shanghai, the writer chose Acts for his devo-
tional readings, and was much impressed during the reading to
note the wonderful accounts of the doings of the early church
in connection with and after the Pentecostal occasion.

Our steamer was making good time, having covered 360
miles of the distance, leaving but 400 more to reach Hongkong,
our next stopping place. The sea was excellent, the steamer
rolled somew^hat, and some of the passengers were seasick; but,
as a rule, the majority were well and cheerful.

122 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

The writer was up at an early hour, the night's rest being
somewhat disturbed from the fact that prior to leaving Shang-
hai, and acting upon a friend's advice to be vaccinated because
of the reported prevalence of smallpox in the tropics, especially
in India, where we expected to spend several weeks, we were
beginning to have proof of its effect. Very considerately, the
physician had only charged us $7.50 for the process, the regular
fee being $10.00 in Mexican money, or half that in American

The w^eather was cloudy and a little showery, but soon
cleared, and it was delightful, constantly growing warmer. We
had a good appetite and a splendid menu from which to select.
The spiritual food from Acts also was very refreshing to the
soul. This day was all occupied with clerical work, and ar-
ranging for further booking to South Africa, thence to the
Gape Verde Islands, then to England and on home. Being so
preoccupied with our clerical work, we were considerably sur-
prised when it was announced at 3 :00 p. m. that we were en-
tering the Hongkong harbor; and were glad to be able to re-
port to our friends and family, that we were well and being
prospered on our trip. Arriving at dock 3 : 30 o'clock, we
took ferry crossing over to Victoria on the Island of Hongkong.
This being a British possession, having been ceded to them
in the 1840's, is certainly a city of splendid appearance, par-
ticularly the English, foreign settlements and business portions.
The Chinese part is farther on at the north side of the city.
Our first point on landing was to visit the postoffice. Then we
went to Cook's agency to get some money changed, and found
Miss Snider in company with several tourists from California.
We now together took the cable-tramway to what is known as
the "Peak," some 1,300 feet above the beautiful harbor of Hong-
kong. Returning from that, we entered some stores, making
purchase of a few curios for wife, daughters, and grandchildren.
The stores are splendid concerns, in magnificent buildings, and
there is an air of thrift and prosperity over the whole place.
Our touring and shopping completed, we entered the launch at
9 :15 and were soon aboard the ship, and weighed anchor early
next morning, Tuesday, March 3rd, at 0 :30 a. m., bound for
Singapore, taking the Manila route.

Part III

India

Our filial word on China was said as we embarked at Hong-
kong, Tuesdaj', IMarcli 3rd, taking the Philippine route to India.
Stopping at the historic ports of Manila, Singapore, Penang,
and Rangoon, we reached Calcutta March 21st, having made
the entire distance, about 3,000 miles, in eighteen days, and
without any disaster, for which we lifted up our heart to God in
grateful praise for His manifold blessings.

Saturday, at dawn, our ship stood in the mouth of the Hogla
(Ganges). Here we were met by our dear Brother Eaton. How
shocked and grieved we were to note in his sadly altered looks,
the traces of his recent severe illness, as well as the hard work
he has had to do, disregarding the caution imperative under a
tropical sun. After our brief greetings and inquiries as to Mrs.
Eaton, the workers and work, he kindly arranged for our bag-
gage transportation, and then, escorting us to the garage, we
were driven towards Hallelujah Village. Stopping just long
enough to purchase some supplies at the city market, were soon
in the lane leading to the mission. Either side of the way was
bordered with a profusion of most beautiful flowers, while an
array of pendants in many colors were all aflutter, and a hand-
some banner, as we reached the entrance way, unfolded the word
"WELCOME." In the porch, waiting to give us cordial greetings,
stood Mrs. Eaton and two of her associate workers, the Misses
Grebe. Hardly had we had time to express our pleasure in
seeing them once more, when our attention was attracted by
voices singing, and turning about we beheld a most beautiful
sight : One hundred and twenty inmates of- the mission, who,
led by their instructors, teachers, and preachers, were marching
around the compound singing as they marched, '^Nojushka"
(meaning welcome). Halting in front of us and bowing low
in salutation, they joined their voices and repeated several times

123

HALLELUJAH VILLAGE

124

CHINA

125

"Welcome! Welcome! Welcome! Tlicy now marched into the
chapel, continiiinii- their son'j;s and welcoming, the whole
coming' to a climax with the rendering in English of "My
country 'tis of thee." After a season of prayer, in which all
the workers participated, Brother Dwarka, a native preacher, gave
the welcome address in English, This was followed by two
written speeches, and a poetic oration by Brother Protab, a
native preacher. The writer was then requested to make a
few remarks, the same brother interpeting for him. Sister Eaton
closed with prayer, and we proceeded to the compound for a
few pictures.

GATEWAY TO HALLELUJAH VILLAGE

This service was a most imi^ressive time, for it seemed the
Lord had poured out His blessing in unusual measure; then,
as we looked into the bright, happy faces of those boys and
girls, we felt in our hearts how glad the people in the home-
land who support the work here would be if they could see the
things we saw, and hear the things we heard, and that they
would not only give thanks for the privilege of doing what they
have done in the past, but would pray to the Father for en-
larged opportunity, as well as more consecrated effort, and would
want to greatly increase their offerings.

126 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

The work of the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene in
this great empire is divided into two districts known as Eastern
and Western India. The Bengali, or Eastern Missionary Dis-
trict, embraces all of India north of Bombay and Madras Presi-
dencies and Central Province; the Western, or Marathi Mis-
sionary District, includes all not mentioned in the Eastern.

Hallelujah Village is a plot of land with five and two-thirds
acres, about three miles west of Central Calcutta, and is one
of its suburbs. A brick wall averaging eight feet in height,
enclosed about half this tract. Within are three principal build-
ings constructed of brick walls and corrugated iron roof, and
cook houses and bathrooms of the same material, Hope School
being also accommodated here. One building, however, is used
for boys' and girls' school, though each have separate houses.
The rest of the space is utilized for campus, garden, and water
tanks, the latter having been used for washing and bathing pur-
poses until recently condemned by attending i)hysician.

Outside the enclosure, or in the other half of Hallelujah
Village, at the front, facing the south, and near the entrance,
is the Bresee Missionary Home.

Part of the structure is two stories, with flat roof. The
kitchen and dining room have slanting roof, covered with cor-
rugated iron ; the floors are of hard dirt with cement coat. At the
south of the compound is a long brick building, half of wliich
is used as a chapel.

On the west side is a long, low section of brick walls, roofed
with corrugated iron, and divided into rooms for the working
class. Further along are the stables, and another brick room
for storage. On the east side of the compound are two build-
ings, one occupied by the native Christian Bengali teachers
and preachers, the other by the Bible women. Another house is
also being used as a temporary dormitory for the larger boys
of Hope School. Much of the space back of the missionary
home is occupied by a large garden and tank for irrigating
purposes, which latter is also utilized as a fish pond and from
which frequent supplies of good fish are taken. Its use for
washing and bathing purposes has also been prohibited. There
is also a small lawn at the southeast corner of the compound,
and adjoining it a garden.

END VIEW r.Ki:Si:E .MEMORIAL

FItONT VIEW IIKESEE .\lEAIORE\L

127

128 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

This property is approached by a narrow street, or lane, run-
ning off Garrahat Road, about a quarter of a mile south.
While our location seems somewhat isolated, it is within the
city limits, and we are informed there is no other missionary
work of any kind within a radius of one mile. All the country
in Calcutta, including- our own holdings, is very flat and low,
and the luxuriant foliage of tropical plants falling and remain-
ing there, decays with the coming of the rainy season. This,
together with the poor drainage, contributes to the malarial
tendencies of the district. We also have the disadvantage of
being located a little outside of the sanitary zone, consequently,
our missionaries, helpers, and scholars have at times suffered
greatly from the ravages of fever. However, because of the
urgent need, we are encouraged to believe the city council will
shortly extend its drainage system; then we shall fill up our
tanks. This, together with the removal of decaying vegetation,
the erection of new and sanitary buildings, and the relief from
surface waters and stagnant pools, will free us from the dreaded
mosquito, while it will make suburban property much more
healthful. This may cost heavily, but we shall have a valuable
property for a recruiting station. We trust the Lord will so
prosper us that we shall soon open another station in a higher
altitude for the education, training, sheltering, and saving of
the homeless and hopeless of this great city. The departments
of work might be classified as Orphanage, Eescue Llome, and
School. Doubtless, the original idea in founding this institu-
tion was to provide a home specially for orphans and widows,
but in its development and in the very nature of its work, it
has been obliged to provide shelter as well as to save, educate,
and train all these various classes. The rescue home work is
largely that of securing and saving girls and widows from
the heathen temples. The day school is for the instruction of
orphan boys and girls.

In India, we have two systems of scliools, one known ris the
Grant Aid, the other as the Registered; so we have a school
within Hope School which we are hoping to have classified
under the head of Grant Aid. Sister Myrtle Mangum, its
principal, was succeeding admirably in this purpose until
stricken with malaria. Plowever, her visit to the mountains

INDIA

129

greatly improved her liealth, and on her return she resumed
the supervision and is making- a splendid success. The session
is eleven months, the teachers being- allowed four weeks' vaca-
tion in May — the hottest period. We also have a school out-
side of the mission ranked under the head of day school, with
two teachers, the principal having- an assistant. It is a free
school, but is not compulsory; consequently, tliere is much ir-
regularity^ in the attendance.

In connection with the evangelistic department in Hallelu-
jah Village, we have a Sunday school meeting every week at
7:00 a. m. All our Hope school and those of Halk'lujah Village

DINING KOOM. BIIESEE MEMOItlAL

attend. We have five outside Sunday schools in (Jalcuttn.
These Sunday schools are held on Saturdays by the Eengrli
teachers and preachers in what is known as the Registerrd
Schools. These are private institutions conducted by Hindus
who are supported by small tuitions from the parents of pu]nls
attending. By paying these schoolmasters 2 rupees — 06 cents
our money — per month, they allow us to hold Sunday schools
each Saturday afternoon; one of our Bengali missionary
preachers or teachers then taking full charge, giving instruc-
tion in the Sunday school lessons, and such other scriptural

130

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

portions as they deem necessary, illustrating; the same with
pictures, blackboard talks, etc. They arc also permitted to
teach our doctrines. While this may seem to us in the home-
land, a very strange practice, yet we believe it will prove to
bo very effective in winning and saving souls, and that its
results will more than compensate us for the labor and expense
attached thereto. It was my privilege to visit all five of these
schools.

ONE OF THE OUTSIDE SUNDAY SCHOOLS, CALCUTTA

In addition to what has been said concerning the evangel-
istic work, we have been conducting a mission in the central
part of the city, and have a system of hospital visitation and
street meetings.

March 24th, Tuesday, following our arrival, the writer was
permitted to visit Kali, the famous shrine of the "Goddess of
blood." This is only one of 330,000,000 of their gods, many
of which are in and about Calcutta, with its million and a
quarter people, the greatest city of India. The day we were
there, two hundred goats as well as a number of bullocks were
offered to the goddess. Formerly infants were sacrificed here,
to propitiate the evil spirits. Among the interesting and pain-

INDIA

131

fill sights were the numerous little temple girls, a group of
whom may be seen in the picture. It was here we also saw great
throngs of people bathing in the Ganges, and were specially
impressed as we witnessed a woman throwing herself on the
dirt in the street, who, having been at great expense to bathe
in the Ganges, had been told by the priest that she must mrke
all the distance from the Ganges to the temple, measuring her
length in the dirt along the way. We saw another crowd gath-
ered around one of the fakirs, one of the thousands of so-e;lled

TEMPLE GIRLS. CALCUTTA

holy men of India. The accompanying pictures will give the
reader some comprehension of the scene then before our eyes;
and the extent and power of this ancient custom which con-
tinues to degrade the people of even this generation.

On Wednesday, March 25th, falling into line with the pre-
vious plans of Superintendent Eaton, the writer accompanied
Sister Eaton and her party of Bengali tc-achers and Bible
women to the Garo work for a brief assembly.

The Garo work is what might be considered the country
missionary work of Eastern India. The Garos, numbering pos-
sibly 40,000 people, live in the hill country about four hundred
miles from Calcutta, and are of a roving disposition.

riLGKIM MEASUIIING HER LENGTH FROM THE GANGES
TO TEMPLE

BATHING IN THE GANGES
132

INDIA

133

Our whole pnrty Averc very busy during the day, but we
were Hnally ready, and started on the train at 9 :00 p. m.,
making the distance in about twenty hours — three hundred
miles by train, the remaining one hundred miles by boat. The
scenery along the river was charming. As we approached Mi-
mansingh we saw a number of elephants used in connection

FAKIR IN TEMPLE AT KALI

with the sawmills, and farming and village industries. 1'here
were also large numbers of cattle of various kinds, but they
all seemed stunted and poor, doubtless because of the recent
drought.

Arriving at Mimansingh at fi :00 p. m., we were met by Misses
Myrtle Mangum and Lela Hargrove, our missionaries who had

134 . WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

supervision of the Garo work, but who, on account of its un-
healthy location and climate, were oblig-ed to make headquar-
ters at Mimansingh.

All of Friday was utilized in arranging for our trip to the
Garo Hills country, some twenty to fifty miles beyond Miman-
singh, besides the whole night was spent in preparing important
reports and documents for the General Board and loved ones
at home.

Saturday morning found our party, consisting of Sister
Eaton, the Misses Mangum and Hargrove, four Bengali work-
ers, and the writer, ready at an early hour to start for Dockwa,
the headquarters of the Garo work, some nineteen miles dis-
tant. We were soon loaded into gharries, drawn by small and
very poor ponies, which balked before we were out of the front
yard. On our way to the ferry, we made a stop to get an
abundant supply of soda water, inasmuch as the water in and
about Dockwa is unsafe to drink.

The government road from Mimansingh to Dockwa lies
through a low, fertile, but beautiful section of country. The
highway is elevated eight or ten feet above the surrounding
land, and there are streams, also occasional rivers to cross,
necessitating the erection of bridges, many of which had been
partially or wholly destroyed by the recent floods. We had to
disembark at least a dozen times during the day to prevent the
vehicle from tipping over. One of these events was made espec-
ially trying by both ponies balking in the middle of a wide
stream. About 1 :00 o'clock, having come to a very fine group
of mango trees, our party stopped for lunch. Being refreshed
with this meal, the missionaries held a short service. We re-
sumed our journey, arriving at Dockwa about 3 o'clock in the
afternoon. The accompanying picture will assist the reader
in obtaining an idea of the headquarters of the Garo work at
this time. We have here about one acre of land, with five
native buildings, one for the schoolhouse, one for the school-
master's residence, another for a training school, still another
as a home for the native preachers and teachers, and a rest
house. These buildings are of bamboo walls covered over with
grass roofs, and dirt floors raised about two and one-half feet
above the balance of the ground to prevent dampness. We

LIXCII IIUUII EX ROUTE FOR DOCKWA

ONE OF OT'K (xHAIMtlES KXRorTK To DoCKWA

135

136

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

gave the purchase price of the land, and the Garos had erected
the buildings.

We had only been seated a few minutes with our type-
writer, when our attention was claimed by the sound of pat-

DOCKWA MISSION HEADQUARTERS

tering feet and happy voices, and looking out, we saw a comp_^,ny
of some seventy-five Garo Indians who had just come from a
distance of fifteen to thirty miles to be present at the two or
three days' assembly and religious feast. There were men
and boys in the crowd, and women carrying their babies; and,
notwithstanding the long, hot, dusty walk, as happy as could be.

• A MM DATES FOR BAPTISM, DOCKWA

INDIA

137

Sunday, March 29tb, was indeed a full day. Beginninu- at
6 : 00 o'clock, the misisonaries engaged in a meeting of about 150
of the people. These bands are customarily called "good daros"
as a distinction between the Christians and non-Chritsians in
this section. The reader, of course, will understand that the
writer preached through an interpreter. At the close of this

BAPTISMAL SERVICE, DOCKWA

int-eresting morning service, we proceeded to the river a half-
mile away for the baptismal ordinance.

Not only may the candidates for baptism be seen in the
picture, but also the great crowd which had gathered, for it
was now 11 : 00 o'clock. About forty-five persons were baptized
in this beautiful appearing, but muddy stream. The ceremonj'

138

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

over, followed by the entire company of "good Garos," singing,
and beating drums on the march as an aid to expression of their
pent-up joy, we returned to the building, where they were dis-
missed. When our clothing was changed, and breakfast an-
nounced, we were certainly ready to welcome the summons, as
it was then 3 :00 p. m. We had scarcely completed our meal,
when a large company of curious Mohammedans, returning
from a bazaar, stopped to see the white-faced missionaries. We
thought it a good opportunity to hold a short service of song
and exhortation. Misses Mangum and Hargrove conducting,

PIlEPAPtlNG THE FEAST, DOCKWA

and the writer making a few brief remarks througli an inter-
preter. At 6 :00 o'clock, we held another meeting with the
Garos.

Monday, we had another full day, beginning with services
for all from 6:00 to 8:00 o'clock in the morning. At 9:00
o'clock we held the dedicatory exercises, for the grounds and
buildings, then shortly after 12 :00, noon, we found a little
time for breakfast.

Above is an interesting picture of the Garos preparing their
feast of meat and rice for the people who had come from a
distance.

INDIA 139

During- the day, we held several conferences with the "good
Garos" and Bengali teachers and workers. As many of the
Garos who had come from the rural districts, were anxious to
return in order to get their ground ready and crops planted, it
was decided to close the assembly at noon; so as soon as they
had had their morning feast they shook hands and said good-
bye, taking up their little bundles and children, and starting
on the return trip.

As Sister Eaton was ill, and Miss Mangum had an attack
of malaria, it was decided that the missionaries with the Bible
women had better return to Mimansingh; while the writer, in
company with the Bengali preachers and teachers, Brother
Dwarka, and his brother, were to go to the Garo Hills country,
a circuitous journey of about one hundred miles. The only
conveyance that could be obtained at this busy time of the year
was a bullock cart, and this had to be brought nineteen miles
from Mimansingh. The writer, with his valise and typewriter,
and a limited supply of food and camping outfit, were loaded
into the cart. This cart had no springs, and but for the
thoughtfulness of Sisters Mangum and Hargrove, we would
have been without cover to shelter us from the heat of the
sun, or damp of the night. They, however, improvised a canopy
of bamboo rods and covered it over with some matting.

We started just as the sun was sinking in the West — that
is, the writer, two Bengali preachers, and two Christian farm-
ers. The latter accompanied us to prepare the way for the
cart; for this was necessary as there were no roads in the
section. We had to drive across rice fields, then through jungles
and swamps. We had not proceeded very far when the guides
came upon a tiger, which gave them great fright; but it was
young and cowardly, and beat a retreat. We continued our
journey without further adventure until we came to a river
too wide to ford in the night. Consequently, through the cour-
tesy of a rich Mohannnedan, we were permitted to rest a few
hours in one of the houses on his land. In the morning,
Thursday, March 31st, we crossed the river as soon as it was
sufficiently light, but we found it too deep for comfort, and
our bedding, etc., had to be carried over on the heads of coolies
to keep it dry. About 7 :00 o'clock we sighted the Garo Hills,

lU'FFALO AL(1XG KOFTE TO (JA1!0 HILLS

B

a

■■HmBk' m

HhHHHII

READY FOR THE TRIP TO GARO HILLS
140

INDIA

141

some six miles ditsant; but the dense fog shut oif the view,
though it made it cooler riding. Frequently we came upon
quite large groves of trees, and would see big herds of native
buffaloes. The farmers on all sides were busy preparing the
land for jute, this being the first crop. Most farmers make
tlie land do double duty, making a second planting with rice.

MOTHER ALMI. 100 YIIS. A HEATHEN,
U MONTPIS A CHRISTIAN

We made our first stop at noon, under a large tree in the yard
before the home of "Mother Almi," who is over one hundred
years of age.

By looking at the picture, the reader will have some appreci-
ation of her long life of suffering and hardships; and he wWl
see the members of her numerous family. The large man in
the group is her son-in-law, 90 year^^ of age, who, she said.

142

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

lias been very kind to her. These children and grandchildren
made quite a congregation. Her six months of Christian ex-
perience seems to have rendered her very happy, and she spoke
of her joyful experience. After a short service, we indulged in a
light breakfast, having our own food, and these kind friends
furnishing us hot water. One should never drink water in
this section before it is thoroughly boiled.

We continued our journey to Garo Hills School House.
The land is low, swampy and broken; but in this section there
were quite well beaten paths, so that the jolting of the cart

MOTHER ALMI, CHILDREN, AND GRANDCHILDREN

was not so severe. We noticed, in passing through the country,
that nearly all the farmers have been forced to raise jute, which
has decreased the rice output; consequently its scarcity makes
it very hard for them to live; indeed the "good Garos" find
it difficult to sustain themselves and families at all, as formerly
they were in the service of the Mohammedans and Hindus,
but when they embraced the religion of Jesus and refused to
work Sundays, or to beat the drum-s for idol worship and
feasts, their vocation was gone, and their late employers refused
to give them any kind of work to do. Consequently, they are
looking for some economic movement on the part of the church

GARO HILL SUNDAY SCHOOL

SUNDAY SCHOOL AT CHANDREPURRI

143

144 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

whereby they can secure loans of money and grants of Lmd at
reasonable rates. We say reasonable rates, for at present, should
the "good Garo" have occasion to hire one hundred rupees,
he would have to repay one hundred and eighty rupees at
the end of the year; or should he borrow a bushel of rioe, he
would have to give two bushels in return when harvest time
came. They are willing to pay twelve and one-half per cent
interest, and to give one and one-half bushels of rice; but just
now are finding it impracticable. This is one of the difficult
problems to be solved in connection with the teaching of
salvation.

The Garo school delegation came from three miles distance,
beating drums and cymbals, and singing, and waving many
and bright colored banners. This is the customary honor they
pay to visitors. Garo school is located with other houses on
a high hill, which at a distance looks like a plateau.

This school has seventeen boy and four girl students. On
arriving, we held a short service with the goodly company of
people who had gathered. As a result, two of them knelt in
the circle for prayers. We were especially interested in the
testimony of one man from the Hills, who was among the
number baptized at Dockwa; and who, since then, has taken off
his rings and jewels. He was exceedingly happy as he en-
deavored to tell the people how he had been converted, and why
he had removed the ornaments.

After service, we hastily partook of a rice and chicken curry
which the teacher, Brother Gourghandram, had kindly provided.
From here, we went to the Balagow church. We were met by
a delegation singing and playing musical instrum.ents. We
reached the place about 6:00 p. m., where more than one hun-
dred people welcomed us, beating drums and singing Christian
songs. They had also erected a temporary shelter of bamboo.
As the sun was fast disappearing, we at once proceeded to give
them a short message. Brother Dwarka acting as interpreter.
We now went to a small stream for the baptism, there being
twenty-three applicants; but owing to scarcity of water, we
were obliged to administer the ordinance by pouring, which
seemed quite satisfactory to them. Eeturning again to our

INDIA 145

temporary shelter, several hours were spent in conferences,
during- which the representatives of the country told us of
their troubles, needs, and desires, expressing themselvs as
being- very anxious for Christian preaching and teaching. They
also stated that they had built a new schoolhouse and living
room for the instructor. The writer has the impression as he
meets these people and hears their stories, that they are indeed
very poor. Most of the boys and girls up to ten or twelve years
of age have no clothing, and adults only a meager apology
for wearing apparel. We not only listened to their stories of
privation, but also of their difficulties. I will venture to men-
tion one or two. One of the men who had had two wives arose
and said, through the interpreters (for we now had two of
them, as they understood neither English nor Bengali), that
while he was away with one of his wives at Dockwa being bap-
tized, the other had gathered up all the household effects and
disappeared. He wanted to know what he should do to recover
them. I told him that he should tell Moti Babu when he re-
turned, and. that he would go with him to the magitsrate, and
find out what should be done. Another, a youth, who was
about fourteen years old, and married about six months, said
his father-in-law had beaten him severely because he had been
baptized, and wanted to know what he should do. T also re-
ferred him to Moti Babu (who is the chief worker here and
seems to be both law and gospel to them), who would doubtless
be able to adjust matters for him before the magistrate. These
two incidents will afford a suggestion as to some of the problems
of our church, as well as those of other denominations who have
to deal vidth the polygamy and ignorance of the people, their
poverty, and its associate evils.

It was 10 :00 o'clock, and we had finished the conference,
when the chief man of the village also sent us in an excellent
curry of chicken and rice, after which we were furnished a jar
of freshly boiled water for our next day's journey, and a two-
quart brass lota of water with which we were expected to take
a full bath. The Bengali teachers had anticipated taking a
bath in the nearby streams, but on account of the frequent
attacks of the tigers, jackals, and cobra, as well as an occasional
boa-constrictor, it was considered too great a risk; hence they

146

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

waited a more favorable time, which we considered very wise
on their part.

April 1st found us holding services with these "good Garos"
before dawn. Then we hastened on our way to Shebberry, re-
ported to be three miles away, but in fact six. While en route,
the two guides decided they would like to see the country from

GARO GOD OF HEALTH

the distant mountain top, and hastened hither, leaving the
writer without a guide or interpreter. However, we reached
the village sought about 10:00 o'clock, and took some pictures
of the "god of health," etc., while awaiting the arrival of our
guides. Then, as we had promised to visit the home of a Chris-
tian Garo who had begged the privilege of preparing food for
us and provender for the beasts, having been informed that it

INDIA 147

was but the short distance of two miles, we started to fulfill
the engagement. Much to our surprise, and possibly a first of
April reminder, we found it was ten miles out of our way.
However, the distance was somewhat alleviated by the fact that
the "good Garo" had sent out a delegation of people some four
miles to escort us in, with the customary banners and musical
instruments and songs. He had also erected the customary
temporary shelter, and then insisted on our partaking of a rice
and chicken curry, after which he desired that his wife and son
might be baptized. After the short service, the man stated that
his object in inviting us to partake of the feast and visit him
was that we might see the new school house he had constructed
and send him a preacher and teacher. Indeed, there seems to
be a great desire springing up among these people generally for
schools and Gospel instruction, and the painful thing about it
all is our lack of money.

From here we went to Chandrepurri, where we have a school
with eight boys and four girls; and although the instructor, his
w4fe and children, all suffering with malaria, were unable to
appear, they had sent out their entire force to welcome us with
the customary music and banners. This building has be<"n up
about six months, and is a room about twenty by thirty feet,
made of bamboo, with a grass roof, and the customary raised,
dirt floor.

This had been an exceedingly strenuous day, and the Bengali
guides begged to have a little time for resting and feasting, as
the head man of the village had been at so much pains to make
preparations. Consenting to their earnest request, after their
promise to drive all night, the writer proceeded to take up his
much neglected correspondence. However, after the feast, the
men were still unwilling to proceed, and we were unable to get
them started until next morning at 7 : 00 o'clock. However, the
weather was somewhat cooler, and we made fourteen miles in
seven hours, a very remarkable distance with our team. Return-
ing the same way we had come, we crossed the river without
delay, encamping on its farther shore. We were making ar-
rangements for breakfast, when the rich Mohammedan farmer,
learning of our presence, came personally to see us, and desired
to make a feast for us. But knowing it would probably require

148 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

a day's time to show proper appreciation of such a distinguished
honor, and feeling that the time could not be spared, also not
wishing to put our missionaries under any obligation, I declined
the courtesy of his invitation. However, he insisted on remain-
ing while we partook of our morning meal. Through an inter-
preter the writer very much enjoyed the conversation wtih this
intelligent man concerning the important interests of the coun-
try and its people.

At this point, Ramsighn, the head man of Dockwa, advised
us that a gharry was waiting to take us back to Mimansingh.
On the strength of this, I at once arranged with the driver that
if ho would hasten on the remaining eight miles to Dockwo,
where the gharry was in waiting, I would pay him for the whole
of the next day, and he could then proceed to Mimansingh at
his leisure. This he agreed to do, and at first made a pretense
of hurrying the already weary beasts to a better speed, but it
only lasted a few minutes. On arriving at Dockwa at 4 :00, it
was learned that the man who had been sent with the gharry,
having received payment in advance, refused to wait longer
than 8 :00 o'clock that morning, and returned to Mimansingh,
thus leaving us no alternative but to continue our journey in the
bullock cart, at the same slow pace. After much palaver, T suc-
ceeded in getting the driver's consent to continue the journey.
One of the "good Garos" at Dockwa, learning of our return,
prepared a feast of chicken and rice curry, and fish, which we
received thankfully. We then held a long conference with Moti
Babu^ who was recovering- from malaria, and several other
teachers and workers. We new re-adjusted our cart, removed
the temporary covering loaned us by one of the village men,
loaded our baggage on the open platform, and started with
Dwarka and the guide on the last nineteen miles of our ox-trip,
making the distance in twelve and a half hours, and arriving at
Mimansingh in time to see the train leaving the station just
ahead of us.

This last night was exceedingly dangerous. The driver and
guide were both asleep, and the writer had to keep trace of the
bridges, and frequently it was necessary to catch hold of the
frame of the cart to prevent being thrown under the wheels.

INDIA 149

Once I narrowly escaped it when the bullock, coming to a river
where the bridge was gone, shied and ran down a steep bank,
throwing me violently against the wheels, though I managed to
keep from going under.

Notwithstanding our intense desire to hasten, we w^ere obliged
to remain at ]\[imansingh another twenty-four hours for the next
train. However, we were very glad to get a little much needed
rest, and to acquaint ourselves with the place, also to visit the
foreign settlement of this important city of twenty-five thousand
people.

Arrangements being made for a conference W'ith the mission-
aries of the Eastern District, Misses Hargrove and Mangum
were added to our company, as we took the Saturday morning
train for Calcutta; but this, as we learned later, being the day
for the bathing feasts, the train was crowded with people desir-
ing to reach the ghats — a term signifying stairway descending
into the river. This is a great occasion with the natives, and
fourteen thousand people came in on the trains that day, be-
sides several large steamers continued to bring them. Wlien
we reached Narayanganj we had opportunity to observe and
make a profitable study of the customs of the people gathered
at this bathing resort. Everywhere and anywhere one would
glance, whether to the streets, or sidewalks, or platforms all
w^ere full of the people wallving, standing, sitting, or worshiping.
And when the time came to leave, so eager w^ere they to go
they rushed onto the cars as fast as they were backed into the
station, one after the other; and sometimes the m.en and women
actually fought and beat each other in a contest to see who should
ride in the already densely crowded coaches.

Embarking from Narayonganj, we traveled by steamer to
Goalundo, where we transferred to the train, and had a com-
fortable journey to Calcutta.

Many events of far-reaching interest were crowded into the
time between April 6th and June 10th, necessitating the deten-
tion of the writer eight weeks beyond the time originally slated.

The effect of the sun, together with the recent severe ma-
larial attack suifered by Brother and Sister Eaton, had left
them in such reduced physical condition as rendered their re-
turn to America imperative. Indeed, the attending physician

150 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

insisted that tlieir sailing be set for the earliest possible date
so as to allow them to escape the dreadful summer heat.

To arrang-e for their release from responsibility, so that prep-
arations for the long sea voyage could be made, also for us to
secure capable, experienced workers, and outline the future
policy of the work, was an undertaking of grave proportion.
Realizing something of its magnitude, we cabled the Home
Board asking that the church observe April 7th as a day of
special prayer for missions in India, and, having made such
request, we endeavored to arrange for this special work.

Closing our missionaries' home at Mimansingh, we planned
for them to come and assist in the work at Calcutta. We also
invited Brother L. S. Tracy, Superintendent of the West Indian
field, and his wife, to be with us at this time, and called in
Evangelist Haas for the occasion. This service continued over
the following Sabbath with excellent interest, a number of the
Bengali teachers and Bible women of Hope School claiming to
have received much benefit.

i\.pril 9th, Sister Eaton, realizing the importance of getting
ready for the home-going, resigned her superintendency, and
Brother Tracy, kindly constenting to have this extra burden
placed upon him., was appointed until such time as the General
Board should take further action for his successor. Brother
Eaton also resigned the treasurership, and Brother Tracy ac-
cepted this additional duty. Then, for the best interests of the
work, we also found it necessary to accept the resignations of
others. In order that the cause should not suffer more than
possible, also in harmony with the requests of both the retiring
and newly appointed superintendents, and associates, the writer
canceled all dates and consented to remain until Brother Tracy
and family could arrange their work in West India and move
to Hallelujah Village.

The working forces of the mission were re-organized with
Miss Myrtle Mangum as principal of Hope School, and Miss
Lela Hargrove, matron; while Miss Hulda Grebe was given
charge of the religious department, and Miss Leoda Grebe, the
dispensary. Having set April 24th as the sailing date for
Brother and Sister Eaton and the two Hindu girls they were to
take with them from Hope School, the writer found it necessary

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MISSIONARIES, BULDANA

SUNDAY SCHOOL, BULDANA

151

lUIOTIIEU AND SISTER CAMPBELL IN BRITISH MAIL TONGA

PASSENGER TRAIN, INDIA

152

INDIA

153

to make a hasty trip with Brother and Sister Tracy to West
India, in order that he might meet them in a conference with
their associate missionaries — Eev. Campbell and wife, Kev.
Fritzlan and wife, Mrs. Perry, mother of Sister Tracy, and
the Misses Olive Nelson and Virginia Roush.

Leaving Calcutta April 16th, we arrived in Buldana the fol-
lowing Saturday at noon. After brief greetings and hand-
shaking, we were refreshed by a bountiful repast, then the after-
noon and late into the night was spent in conference with the
missionaries considering matters of various and vital import jnco
to this part of our mission field.

READY TO START FOR AMERICA

Sunday was a very precious day. We attended two Sabbath
schools, also preached twice during the day.

Monday forenoon was devoted to conference work. Dinner
over, we made a hasty trip to the orphanage farm, where we
secured some pictures of which we will speak later. After an-
other very brief conference, Brother Campbell and wife, and
the writer took the "Mail Tonga" for Malkapur. Here they
boarded a westbound train at 11 : 00 o'clock, and the writer, at
midnight, found an easternbound train, arriving at Calcutta
Wednesday morning, April 22nd.

154

WORLD-WIDE MIvSSIONS

We will not undertake to mention the several activities of
these last two or three days prior to the departure of Brother
and Sister Eaton for America. Suffice it to say that all the
daylight and much of the night was spent assisting them to
secure and pack their trunks, curios, etc., and what made it

THE LAST LOOK

more difficult for them was to learn on Friday that the steamer
would sail twelve hours ahead of time previously advertised,
thus obliging them t^ go aboard Friday night instead of Sat-
urday morning. However, by the blessing of the Lord, Sister
Eaton was specially helped to endure the trying ordeal. Then,

INDIA 155

spending' a few hours with the scliool and mission, the final fare-
wells were spoken, and they were oft" to the steamer.

We were glad to accompany and in some degree aid them
to get located in their rooms. Scarcely had we finished this
little service, when the gong sounded warning all the non-
voyagers ashore. But Saturday morning, learning that tlie
steamer, the Japan, was anchored downstream, we arranged to
give them a little surprise. So, taking a launch, we were carried
alongside their vessel, and, going aboard, had a last season of
prayer and conference with our returning missionaries.

May 2nd, Rev. Brother Tracy and wife, with their three
children, and Sister Ella Perry, mother of Mrs. Tracy, arrived
at Calcutta, and he began his official responsibilities. The time
between their arrival and May 11th, when the writer was to
leave for Western India, was wholly given over to the establish-
ing and re-organization of the work, and in endeavoring to
help them, as best we might, to put the new regime in operation.-

The writer, unaccompanied, now began his second trip to the
Marathi District for the purpose of inspecting our own missions
as well as those of other people of similar faith and practice.
Two nights and a day, our train bore us safely across the broad
expanses of India's thickly inhabited acres. ]^ow it would be
along some irrigated river valleys — the British have expended
$150,000,000 to redeem the arid lands of the country — ag:ain we
were climbing a densely wooded height, or harrying over some
great stretch of hilly, dry-farming section, where the crops
varied from rice, cotton and kaffir corn to those suited for the
poorer soils. There were also numerous flocks of goats and sheep
and herds of cattle, all stunted and poor. As our train sped by,
passing through cities and numerous villages, we would catch
sight of multitudes of people, many of whom were wretchedly
clothed.

May 12th, we spent on the train. The bountiful lunch so
thoughtfully provided by Sister Tracy and the missionaries was
greatly enjoyed, especially the birthday cake — for it was the
writer's sixtieth anniversary — a day full of many serious but
thankful reflections.

Arriving in Igtapuri early Wednesday, May loth, and being
met by Rev. and Mrs. Campbell, we were conducted to our mis-

156

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

sion home, and there much refreshed by chota hazaree, i. c, a
small breakfast, with our missionaries, though the respite was
very brief, as we were obligx?d to press on. Brother Campbell
accompanying us as guide and interpreter, adding much
to the enjoyment of the journey.

We took the early train for Khardi. This is a short but
most interesting route over the Eastern ghauts. We were met
at the station bj^ Rev. Roy Codding, Superintendent of the
Pentecostal Mission work of India, which has since united with
the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene. As we had had the'
privilege of meeting this good man and his wife at the General

CODDING STATION, KHAllDI

Assembly at Nashville and in our home in Chicago, we were
delighted to renew the acquaintance.

Brother Codding has a very good mission, well located, it
being near the top of a range of hills. They are also favored
with a well of very fine water. At this station we had the privi-
lege of meeting Miss Carpenter with her native workers and
two of the orphans. At night we had a very interesting service,
at which a goodly company of native Christians were assembled.
However, as it was vacation time, and both the teachers and
pupils were away, we did not see the orphanage at its best.

INDIA

157

Next morning- we had an early farewell, and resumed our
journey for Bombaj-. The seenery all the way, from the rugged
mountain peaks to the second greatest city of India, was charm-
ing. Our time was greatly limited, but by the help of our kind
Brother Campbell and the tramways, gharries, 'rikishas, etc., we

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MISS CARPENTER AND NATIVE
ORPHANS

saw much of it in a few hours. Yet, because of the rapidity of
our trip in this town, the knowledge of it must necessarily be
very superficial, unless it may be we are privileged to speak of
the famous Queen Victoria Terminal. After hastily visiting
the noted Bombay docks, we entrained for llukti, arriving in
the afternoon at Khedgaon, where we found the good tonga

158

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

waiting. We drove to the village of Miikti, where Pandita
Ramabai greeted us very cordially in a few well chosen words,
her daughter interpreting. We were then committed to her
trusty lieutenant and shown about her village, where she has
thirteen hundred girls and widows in homes, all of them em-
ployed in various occupations, such as lace-making, and rug
factories, and bookbinding, and printing establishment:;. Then
we visited the hospitals, consumptive ward, rescue home, and a

MISS GRAHAM IN MEDICAL WORK

church large enough for the attendance of the whole village.
We were also permitted to take some pictures, and saw her
celebrated wells. These furnish her village water supply, and
also that for the irrigation of the two hundred acres of her
farm. We had a drink form the one that never failed in all
that terrible drought of 1908. On the return trip, we came

INDIA

159

tliroiigli Pooiia, a Methodist school town. Brother Campbell was
much overcome by the heat here. At the station we were met
by Superintendent Cramer, of the Alliance Mission work, also
Professor S. L. Joshi, of Baroda State College, formerly of the
Pentecostal Collegiate Institute, and a graduate of Columbia
College, New York.

We were somewhat relieved from the oppresive heat as we
re-crossed the mountain ranges just before reaching Igatpuri
about 4 p. m. After a brief period for rest, we enjoyed a few
hours of the evening upon the shores of a small lake up the

^riSSION PROPERTY, IGATPURI

mountain side, in company with Brother Campbell and family,
Rev. Whittle and wife, and Miss Leonard.

Sunday, May 7th, was an exceedingly hot day, and found
us in very poor physical condition for its several duties; but
by the grace of God, we were able to preach night and morning
to the congregation of the Methodist Episcopal Church, of which
Rev. Mr. Whittle was the pastor.

Early Monday morning we made a tour of the city, securing
some pictures; then, after hasty preparations, took the train
for Dhulia. However, we were obliged to go without a guide,
for at the last moment Brother- Campbell was feeling the heat

160

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

so seriously as to compel his waiting- for a later train. Having
made connections at Chalisgaon in the middle of the night, we
took a 6 : 00 o'clock train for Dhulia, and were met at the sta-
tion by two catechists from the Long and Williams mission.

While not a word they said could be understood by the writer,
yet believing they were the parties for whom we were looking,
we went on with them, and were not disappointed; for we soon
came to the desired haven and were most cordially received by
Misses Long and Williams.

Dhulia is a fine city, with about 35,000 population. The
missionaries have desirable property here, some ten acres of

COOLIES CARRYING BAGGAGE. IGATPURI

ground surrounding it, half enclosed by substantial stone wall,
and there are several good buildings. They have forty-eight
girls in this orphanage, three native preachers, and two Bible
women. There are about four hundred villages in their parish.
Their main difficulty is to be able to care for the work so rapidly
increasing on their hands under the rich blessing of God during
the past twelve years. We were now rejoined by Brother Camp-
bell, who, having been greatly strengthened of the Lord in an-
swer to prayer, was able to come on the later train.

L(»X(4 AND WILLIAMS MISSION, DIIFLIA

BIIEEL QUARTERS, .TAIMNIEIJ

161

162 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Wednesday forenoon we had a very interesting service with
about sixty of the folks on the compound, Miss Williams acting
as interpreter. Considerable time was spent in conference with
reference to their work. Then, indulging in a few hours visita-
tion of this interesting Hindu city, we finally started on a late
train for Jalgaon, reaching our destination in the middle of the
night. We were met the following morning by Rev. A. D.
Fritzlan, who took us to the Dok Bungalow. We remained
here until about 5 :00 o'clock; then, in company with this brother,
we went to Jamnier in a bundy (two-wheeled pony cart), mak-
ing most of the trip after sundown, it being somewhat the cooler
time to travel. We had a good modern road — the British gov-
ernment is noted for its activity in the construction of such
highways throughout the whole land — so we made very good
time, and, arriving at the Dok Bungalow two miles from the
town at 12 :00 o'clock, we were able to sleep a little during the
rem.ainder of the night. We had hoped to continue our journey
into the town at an early hour, but the ponies were so com-
pletely exhausted it obliged us to hunt another team in which
we did not succeed until noon; then the oxen were so poor and
jaded, it was with the greatest difiiculty we made the rounds
through the town and its outskirts.

This being Brother and Sister Fritzlan's station, we desired
very much to thoroughly acquaint ourselves with their work and
prospects. We also visited a plot of ground which our mission-
aries hope to purchase and secured pictures of same; and
through their courtesy we obtained a view of the section occupied
by the Bheels, a contiguous mountain tribe noted for their rov-
ing disposition and barbarous habits.

The accompanying picture will give some idea of the squalid
condition of their portion of the town. Brother Fritzlan is
much encouraged with the result of his work among this class
of people, as well as with the Hindus and Mohammedans.

We were much interested in visiting the building where our
missionaries had all along made their headquarters. As seen
in the illustration, it is quite a substantial structure, though
it is in a very unhealthy location. Because of the desire of one
of the returned missionaries to purchase this property, the writer
made a careful inspection, but was obliged to bring in an un-

HOME OF MISSIONARIES AT JAMNIER, INDIA

>.ii:^.«iiUi^^

■

CM LiiT WHERE SUNDAY SCHOOL IS HELD AT JAMNIER

163

164

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

favorable report and against its desirability for a permanent
home.

. The two windows in the front of the building locate the
room in which Miss Simmons died with smallpox after a ling-er-
ing and distressing illness. From here we went to the lone
grave of this faithful missionary and held a brief season of
prayer; then we proceeded to the home of our native preacher.
Here they provided us with a fine repast, and we rested a little
while. The noon meal finished, we had a short service during
which three of their children were baptized. The accompanying
picture will furnish some idea as to where we carry on our

llETURNIxNG FROM JAMNIER BY PONY BUNDY

preaching and Sabbath school work, as we have heretofore been
unable to secure a building for that purpose.

Though this was reputed the hottest day of the year in India,
yet because of the shortness of time and the vast amount of
work to be accomplished, we were obliged to hasten on in our
bundy.

We had gone only a little Wtiy, and were just across a river
when one of our horses seemed to utterly fail, leaving us with
luggage in hand to find some other means of conveyance before
we could make connections with the Jalgaon train. We made a

INDIA

165

prayer to God, then Brother Fritzlan, being acquainted with
the viHage police in Neri, made known his needs to that official,
who very courteously sent a servant with his own horse and
bundy to take lis the rest of the distance. Though we made
fine progress, owing to the delay just mentioned we readied the
station three-quarters of an hour late, so took a later train and
arrived at Malkapur at 8 : 00 o'clock. We then thought to have
proceeded at once to Buldana by auto-stage; but the driver was
tricky, and, being offered more money by others, made several
trips to Buldana before taking us up at 0 : 00 o'clock. This was

BULDANA BUNGALOW

another hot and exceedingly wearisome day, and we had traveled
all the previous night; but we found the grace of God sufficient
to sustain us through it all, and reached our destination about
9 : 00 p. m.

Buldana being the government headquarters for the Berar
District, the administration is endeavoring to perfect a sanitary
ay stem, and inaugurate a hydrant water supply plant. This,
with its favorable altitude, twenty-three hundred feet, makes
it desirable as a mission location, both from a practical and
hygienic viewpoint. Besides a building in central Buldana for

CHAPEL AND TRAINING SCHOOL, BULDANA

13ULDANA DISPENSARY
166

P.ULLOCK TONGA AND NATIVE PREACHER'S HOUSE, BULDANA

FA KM IMPLEMENTS

167 •

168

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Sabbath school work, and one in the suburbs for native preach-
ers, we have also a seven and three-quarter acre tract occupied by
a bungalow, chapel, orphanage, dispensary, and other accessory
buildings, with a never-failing well.

Sunday, May 24th, we had a good day spiritually at Buldana,
and preached both morning and evening.

WELL AT BULDANA FARM

Monday, May 25th, we took a liorseback ride to the farm,
whore we secured several pictures of our most excellent well,
it having stood the test of several protracted droughts, not only
furnishing the supply for our mission, but also a good portion
of that needed by the government officials of Buldana. We also
took pictures of our farm imjilements and the farmers' children.

INDIA

169

which will enable the reader to form quite an accurate idea as
to the way the little folks of the Indian rural districts are al-
lowed to grow up until they arc about ten or twelve years of age.
Tuesday, May 26th, Brother Campbell and the writer visited
Makha, some forty-two miles distant from Buldana. We were
comfortable in making this trip, fortunately by auto. Leaving

COUNTRY CHILDREN

Buldana after lunch, we reached the place early in the after-
noon. Leaving the auto at the Dok Bungalow, we proceeded
afoot through the town and its outskirts, taking pictures of the
land recently purchased for headquarters, and where our mis-
sionaries make their home. This structure is so run down it
is impossible for them to live in it more than six months in the

170

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

year, and the remaining portion of the time they reside at our
mission property in Igatpuri. A severe sandstorm now impeded
our progress, yet we obtained considerable data with reference
to this station. This purpose accomplished, wc retunrend in the
auto to the junction of roads near Chickli, some twenty-eight
miles, where we found Brother Fritzlan waiting in his pony
tonga. Joining him, we proceeded fourteen miles towards Man-
ubai, Brother Campbell continuing in the auto to Buldana. We
reached the Dok Bungalow about midnight, and, securing a little
refreshment, were able to rest our bodies, but could not sleep,

CAMPBELLS KENTED HuUSE, MEHKAR

for we had to combat the usual plagues to missionaries — fleas,
mosquitoes, and ]3rickly heat.

The British administration is esi)ecially to be commended
for two features of its policy with reference to the traveling
public ; first, for the system of excellent highways throughout
the emprie; second, for the shelter houses, or Dok Bungalows,
which are substantial sun- and fire-proof way stations of stone
brick or concrete, and tiled roof. These structures, primarily
erected for the use of the government traveling agents, such as
the judiciary, peace officers, and tax collectors, when not occupied

INDIA 171

by tlieni are at the disposal of foreign tourists or missionaries.
Always there may be found a native in charge who, the govern-
ments expects, will show you every needful courtesy, and for
a reasonable sum provide suitable food. This, of course, varies
with the season. The system plans for one of these bungalows
to occur every seven to fourteen miles on its public highways.
This gives the traveler of interior India many advantages over
those making journeys in the remote sections of China and
Africa, where it is difficult to find either proper shelter or food.
Wednesday morning we were up early and on our way to

WOMEN DRAWING WATER FROM MANUBAI WELL

the village of Munabai, some six miles distant. This was off
the government thoroughfare, and, on account of recent copious
rains, the roads were very muddy and heavy pulling for our
light team. We made a brief stop at this interesting place, of
which the accompanying picture will enable the reader to form
some conception. We found our native congregation here pre-
paring to erect a church building. The readers of our church
paper will doubtless recall the story of the "Miracle Well — an
answer to prayer" ; and how during one of the severest drought?,
a little band of Christians accustomed to assemble here in the

172

INDIA

173

heart of the viUage for daily devotions, were led of the Lord to
dig- for water, and succeeded in finding- it. The writer enjoyed
preaching to the people who had gathered about him, Brother
Fritzlan interpreting. While the surroundings were not all
that could be desired, they served as illustrations of tens of
thousands of other Indian villages that have need of the Gospel
light.

Among other points visited was that of a noted banyan tree
fifty feet in circumference. As much as we enjoyed this portion
of our trip, we were obliged to hasten on to the Dok Bungalow

HOUSE AND WELL AT HATADI

where we were refreshed with lunch and a few^ hours' rest, and
resumed our journey at sundown, driving the other fourteen miles
to Chickli. Pressed for time, we at early dawn were out pros-
pecting the surrounding- country. We especially inspected the
land which Brother Tracy and his colleagues propose purchas-
ing, should the General Board decide to locate its hospital here,
when Miss Gibson shall have returned after completion of the
course and graduation at the Women's Medical College of Phila-
delphia.

The accompanying pictures will be of special interest as
being the places where our missionaries, the Misses Gibson,

174

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Kitchens, . Mrs. Perry, and others, have made headquarters in
connection with the Chickli work. The Lord prospered us in
this part of the journey, and we wore in Buldana by noon, spend-
ing the rest of the day in correspondence and conferences with
the missionaries. Friday, May 29th, Brother Fritzlan and the
writer went out to Hathadi, seven miles distant. On the way,
we saw a band of monkeys and endeavored to photograph them,
but they were too spry for us, and retired to the depths of a
mango tree. We also failed to get a picture of a large snake
which went gliding away, trailing its six or eight feet of length ;
but we did get a view of our native preacher's home, with its

BROTHER FRITZLANS PONY TONGA

well and accompanying grounds. We also saw another banyan
tree some ninety feet in circumference.

We arrived in Buldana in time for lunch; then, as it was
our purpose to at once proceed to Calcutta, we held a brief con-
ference with the missionaries in the aftrenoon, and bade good-
bye to Brother Campbell, who now returned to his family at
Igatpuri. We were unable to carry ont our purposes for return
to Calcutta, as there was not a seat to be had either in atuo-
stage or mail tonga ; so that evening we conferred with Brother
Fritzlan in reference to the future of the West India work,

INDIA 175

lie having been appointed assistant superintendent to Brother
Tracy.

While obliged to hasten during this survey, we believe the
reader, by the assistance of the accompanying pictures, will find
no difficulty in drawing the conchision that we have a very ex-
cellent opportunity for mission work in this Western India Dis-
trict, more particularly since the union of forces of the Pente-
costal Mission with the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene.
The work of both bodies — very favorably located for such a
union of forces — all lies within a radius of two hundred miles ;
besides, if the Misses Long and Williams decide to join us, it
will bring us their excellent girls' orphanage, together with
Superintendent Codding's boys' orphanage at Khardi, and the
Buldana town property with the Bible Training School, the
Industrial School, and farm of twenty-two acres, with unfailing
water supply. It seems we are in splendid shape to do aggressive
and successful work for the Master.

Too much can not be said in praise of this self-sacrificing
missionary band who are proving their Divine call by their
loyal and untiring devotion to the arduous and complicated work
entrusted to them,

Saturday, May 30th, we had our final farewell with the mis-
sionaries of Buldana and proceeded to Dhulia, where we spent
Sabbath day, preaching morning and evening. Monday follow-
ing, i. e., June 1st, in order to render proper account to their
friends in the home land, alsa to make intelligible report to
the General Board, we had a further conference with the Misses
Long and Williams to secure necessary additional information
with reference to their work. Then, bidding them good-bye, we
hurried on to Calcutta. We spent the major portion of two
days and nights on route, arriving at destination June 3rd, 7:00
a. m., having had a most prosperous journey, though we did feel
oppressed with the heat, more particularly as the coolie hr.d
broken the water jug when we were entering the car, and we
had had to do without all the way, it being considered hazardous
to drink water without first boiling it.

From June 3rd to June 10th, the time of our sailing for
Africa, Superintendent Tracy and associate missionaries with
the writer, were strenuously occupied.

176 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

A^ we have just shown, our working- force, always too small,
was now quite depleted; for, in addition to the absence of those
previously mentioned. Sisters Hulda Grebe and Mangum were
not well, and the humid heat seriously affecting Sister Perry,
these faithful women had to go up into the mountain resorts.
Their condition was also such it was necessary for Sister Leoda
Grebe to accompany them as nurse. This now left only Brother
Tracy and wife and Miss Hargrove to care for the entire work
at Hallelujah Village, and we regretted our inability to render
these faithful and overworked missionaries some practical as-
sistance.

Time will not permit the mention of the many courtesies
shown the %vriter both in Western and Eastern India, but he is
sure the Heavenly Father will not fail to take cognizance of it
all, and will abundantly reward all their kind acts.

June 9th, the day preceding that of our departure was un-
usually full of interesting events.

• A number of pictures had to be taken; then there was a
delightful feast made in honor of the writer, to which the mis-
sionaries were invited — this banquet being provided by the
assistant matron and cooks of Hope School. It was what the
natives call a "coopbalou," i. e., "a very good feast." They had
chicken-rice curry, rice-fish curry, fried chicken, vegetables, rice-
pudding, sweetmeats, and different fruits, such as mangoes,
plums, etc. A brief social hour ensued, interspersed with songs
and closing with prayer; then "we said a final farewell word.
The writer very much enjoyed and appreciated it all, particularly
as its abundance had been provided out of their poverty. Surely
the Lord will reward them. Then we were busy until the small
hours of the morning packing our several trunks, and valises
for the long voyage from Calcutta to South Africa, being kindly
assisted in this by' Brother Tracy and wife, and Miss Hargrove.

As it had been necessary to prolong our stay in India so
much beyond the time arranged for, the writer changed his
route, which would have taken him through Suez Canal, with
stops at Jerusalem, Cairo, Alexandria, Athens, Rome, Naples,
Genoa, Paris, and Southampton, and by West Coast to South
Africa, thence to the United States via Cape Yerde Islands and
Scotland. Instead of that, and in order to save much valuable

INDIA 177

time, we took direct steamer from Calcutta to Delagoa Bay,
East Coast, South Africa.

The early portion of Wednesday was spent in getting off
much valuable mail, and in putting the finishing touches to our
packing, as well as securing more pictures. It was an extremely
hot day, and we were much burdened by the pressure of mani-
fold duties as well as the intense heat.

Lunch completed, we gathered once more in the place where
we had been wont to assemble for prayer and committed these
I^recious missionaries, making such glad and voluntary sacrifice
of their lives in the Master's cause, to the loving and watchful
care of our Heavenly Father. Then we said good-bye to Sister
Hargrove. Brother and Sister Tracy, with the three children,
accompanied me to the dock. We stopped on the way to pur-
chase an additional trunk for the curios which somehow seemed
to have accumulated, Boarding the Surat, there were no deck
chairs to be found, and as it was to bo a voyage of several weeks'
duration in a tropical climate, it seemed necessary we should
have this comfort. So Brother Tracy kindly made an extra
trip and secured one for us. At 9 : 00 o'clock, the final good-bye
and God-bless-you had been said, and wo had bidden farewell
to India.

Part IV

Africa

Leaving Calcutta, June lOtli, we reached Delagoa Bay, July
Ttli, making the voyage of six thousand miles in twenty-seven
days, with only two stops in port — the first at Colombo, Ceylon,
June 18th. We resumed our journey Tuesday, the 19th, having
been in a steady monsoon all the way. Monday, June 22nd,
6 :00 p. m., we crossed the Equator. At this point we missed
our guiding North Star — but came into full view of the South-
ern Cross. June 23rd was a sad occasion on deck, as our fourth
engineer was buried at sea.

Our second stop was at Biera, the outlet of Odessa, East
Coast, South Africa. As we advanced south from the Equator,
the weather became considerably cooler, and passing along the
eastern coast, the m.onotony was only broken by shoals of whale,
shark, and dolphin. Finally, at 7 :00 p. m., July 7th, we bade
Captain Plummer and his officers a grateful goodby, and were
landed at the pier of the gateway of South Africa, Louronco
Marqucz, Delagoa Bay.

While waiting for Rev. H. F. Schmelzenbach, superintendent
of our missions in Swaziland, the writer being unable to speak
either the Zulu or Kaffir, at first encountered considerable diffi-
culty in transacting business ; but at length, succeeded in getting
his baggage through the customs. Then he returned to the
pier, and shortly saw a man coming in the distance, whom he
guessed to be our good Brother Schmelzenbach; and although
never before having met, we readily recognized and greeted each
other and joined in a season of prayer and thanksgiving.
Brother Schmelzenbach having made two trips to meet the
writer, and on the hist one being obliged to wait two days for our
debyed steamer, had become quite familiar with this Portuguese
city; so we very quickly dispatched mail, banking, and other
business.

178

AFRICA

179

Leaving Lourenco Marques at 1 : 00, we traveled about one
hundred miles by train, passing through a very barren country,
much broken by numerous streams with heavily wooded banks,
and wide stretches of plateau covered by rank, coarse grass,
the favorite haunt of elephant, hippopotamus, giraffe, lion, tiger,
leopard, and various species of deer and fowl. We had on our
train several sportsmen who seemed able to indulge in the hunt
— an expensive privilege, as license costs $250.00.

At 5 :00 p. m. we arrived at Hectorspruet, well termed the
"gateway to Swaziland," for it is at this station all imports as
well as passengers have to be taken into Swaziland over the

TRAIN AT LORENCO MARQUES

"transport road," either by oxen, mule or donkey inspans. Here,
as soon as Brother Schmelzenbach had i)urchased a good stock
of necessary canned goods, with a few vegetables, and the indis-
pensable tin lantern and candles, we were loaded with our bag-
gage into the touring wagon, with seven donkeys and mule at-
tached— the latter a saddle animal having been pressed into
service instead of donkey, which had broken its log. We had
only gone a short distance outside of the railway enclosure
when we outspanned (unhitched) and enjoyed a supper of bread,
Australian canned butter, apple jam, and hot coffee. By this

180 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

time the full-orbed moon appearing above the treetops, flooded
the whole country with its calm light, and our animals, drivers,
and three Peniel Mission boys, all being thoroughly rested,
wo drove until 12 :00 o'clock midnight, before outspanning.
Very thirsty, yet not daring to drink the germ-laden water of
this section, we had a cup of hot tea and retired, all except
the native drivers and boys, who would not sleep until they had
first prepared and eaten some beef procured on the way. The
writer slept in the "Pullman department" of our wagon — better
understood by a picture which will follow; Brother Schmelzen-
bach slept under the wagon, with heavy blankets spread to

FIRST MORNING EN ROUTE FOR SWAZILAND

protect him from the dampness of the ground, and a canvas
thrown over the front of the vehicle to shield him from the fog.
The natives had their mats on the ground, and slept under
canvas, while the donkeys were turned loose to find their own
provender. Notwithstanding his variety of experiences travel-
ing in China, Japan, and India, sleeping in a wagon was a
new phase in the chapter, and it was a long time before the
writer could induce sleep. Hardly had he lost consciousness
when he was awakened by the mule, tied to the back of the
wagon, nibbling industriously, trying to got his nose in the can
where some of the corn (mealie) was stuck to the bottom and

AFRICA

181

beyond his reach, and of course furnished music for some time.
At 3:00 o'clock we awakened quite chilled; but after a good
face bath in cold water and cup of hot coffee prepared by-
Brother Schmelzenbach, we were soon quite ourselves, and
became busy writing up the trip until breakfast, an hour later.

Scripture reading and prayer over, we were ready for our
second day's journej^.

We spent much time reading the accumulation of mail
which had been waiting us in Swaziland. Our morning's
progress was uninterrupted save a meeting with a corps of
well-armed and superbly mounted police. We also met a

BROTHER SCHMELZENBACH BUYING PUMPKIN OF NATIVE

government rig drawn by six fine mules, and an auto party
in search of big game in the bushveldt country.

At noon, wc outspanned at a little brook under a noble tree,
and a native woman, chancing by with a basket of vegetables
— women do all the farming — Brother Schmelzenbach, in order
to engage her in conversation, purchased a large pumpkin,
then asked if she knew anything about God. She answered,
^^How should I know anything about Him?" He further in-
quired whether any one had ever come there to tell her about
God. "No," she replied, "none have ever come to tell me about
Him." Brother Schmelzenbach informed me that in this Trans-

182 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

vaal region, thirty-five miles to the boundary of Swaziland,
there are 40,000 or more natives among whom no missionary
work of any kind has ever been done, so far as he has been able
to ascertain, and that they absolutely know nothing of the
true God. He assured me that this vast area over which we
had passed was adjoining our mission in Swaziland, and was
ours if we could take hold of it. Surely we can say with the
inspired w^ritcr, there is a great and effectual door opened
unto us.

We next enjoyed another of Brother Schmelzenbach's good
dinners, then we resumed our journey. The mail which had
awaited us so long was full of news of our family and the
work, but also sad tidings of severe illness of General Superin-
tendent Walker and of our local pastor in Kansas City, Mo.,
Brother Cochran. We made a good distance, outspanning at
9 :30 p. m. After light refreshments we retired, wrapping our-
selves in clothing, blanket and rugs — not however, until we
had given special thanks for God's iDrovidence; for, during the
afternoon, our driver had killed a large puff-adder on the side
of the road where three of the boys and donkeys had passed
but a moment before. Had either man or beast been bitten,
it would have meant certain death in half an hour's time, so
deadly is the venom of these reptiles.

July 9th, Thursday. Breakfast, followed by a very helpful
season of family worship in Zulu tongue. Driving an hour, we
came to a small brook for our morning face-wash and general
cleaning up — usually one is not favored with plentiful water
supply, as those familiar with the country always select camps
as far away from streams as possible before outspanning at
night. The day was similar to previous ones, save we saw more
of the natives. It was also a day of special interest, as we
were approaching the mountains dividing Swaziland and Trans-
vaal on the north and west. This is a good section for grazing,
also for raising mealie and pumpkins — the principal native
diet — or kaffir corn where mealie will not grow on account of
insuiRcient rain. At noon we stopped in fine location, which
afforded a good view of picturesque mountains, some peaks
attaining an elevation of several thousand feet, and capped
with snow. During the day we passed another store, the second

AFRICA 183

within a radius of forty miles, and were (luitc encouraged, as
it is considered the half-way place between Hectorspruet and
Peniel Mission. After dinner we inspanned and made a five
mile run, stopping- about 10:30.

Friday, June 10th, up at 6:00; air cold and crisp, but clear;
delayed quite awhile by donkeys having strayed up the canyon,
and hj time we had had prayers and inspanned it was 10:00
o'clock. Had a slow run, as hills had become very steep. Aside
from Brother Schmelzenbach's occasional talks with natives,
the day passed as the one just previous. We outspanned at the
top of a long hill, and while dinner was in preparation, impro-
vised a barbershop — the first attempt in this direction since
disembarking ; also made up mail for 3 :00 o'clock runner whom
Brother Schmelzcnbach dispatched to intercept the outgoing
foreign post at Pigg's Peak. Near the place of our outspanning
was a fine waterfall where the Pigg's Peak Gold Mining Com-
pany have an electric plant, generating and conducting their
own power to the crusher seven miles up the mountains. A
two hours' drive up the mountains brought us in sight of Grace
Mission on a distant peak, one and one-half miles to our right;
but it had been arranged that we w^ere to go direct to Peniel,
where Sister Innis, who is in charge of Grace Mission, had pre-
ceded us. However, several of her Christian band, led by the
native evangelist, came out to greet us. We had a splendid
season of song and prayer, then bade them good-bye, continu-
ing our journey, and leaving the main transport road at sun-
down. Fifteen miles we followed this old, long-neglected road,
which was so badly washed and winds about such steep preci-
pices and ravines, it was at times unwise to remain in the
wagon lest it be overturned. Our pace was slow, the beasts
exceedingly weary, the baby donkeys quite footsore. We out-
spanned at the top of a hill four thousand feet in altitude.
Moon came up bright and clear, but weather cold ; so after a
bowl of hot rice and chicken soup, we toasted our feet before the
fire, and rolled up in blankets for a few hours' rest.

Saturday, July 11th, up early readjusting baggage for the
dreadfully rough and steep road requiring twelve or fourteen
hours by this conveyance. It was thought the remaining eight
miles could be made in better time by going ahead of the wagon.

184

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

80 we set out — the writer on the mule and Brother Schmelzen-
bac'h walking. The scenery was enchanting — mountains hem-
ming us in on all sides, some distant peaks rising seven thousand
feet in altitude, and capped by snow. As we progressed, it was
necessary every now and then to dismount and pick our way,
down the canyons and up the hillsides. At length at 11 :00
o'clock, we came to Peniel Mission, the long-desired haven, nest-
ling forty-five hundred feet up the mountain side, whose great,
round top towered yet another five hundred feet above the little
church and home. A hundred yards from the premises w:'s a

MORNING CALLERS AT OUR CAMP

small orange grove heavily laden with fine fruit, and alongside
were a number of thrifty banana plants, both located by a little
brook. Reaching the mission. Sisters Schmelzenbach and Innis
made us heartily welcome. How refreshing it was, after so
many weeks of travel, to sit down to a meal of good meats, fresh
vegetables from the garden, real milk, and homemade butter and
bread. After our repast, we hastily scanned the mail, and after-
wards briefly inspected the mission property, being especially
interested in the new stone church. In the afternoon we had
an excellent service with missionaries and some fifty natives,
most of them professing Christians. The wagon arrived at about

AFRICA 185

7 :30 p. m., and this being their winter season it seemed quite
late. However, all our baggage was safe.

Sunday, July 12th, proved a delightful day and favorable
to the natives gathering from long distances. At the early morn-
ing meeting, eight children of native Christians were dedicated
to the Lord in baptism. Miss Innis conducted a song service;
and with Brother Schmelzenbach interpreting, the writer en-
deavored to explain to the parents that now their children wore
consecrated to God, they were neither to be sold or exchanged for
cattle, or bartered to men for wives. This session was followed
by preaching to two hundred natives, possibly seventy-five of
tliem believers. The church was packed, all sitting on the floor
except the missionaries, the native Christians being provided
with mats. About thirty of Miss Innis' people had come from
Grace Mission, fifteen miles distant, three of the children dedi-
cated having been carried hither on their mothers' backs. We
held a second service, Brother Schmelzenbach and Miss Innis
conducting preliminary exercises. The writer, with Brother
Schmelzenbach as interprett-r, preached from 1 John, first chap-
ter, using blackboard and other illustrations. The meeting was
wondrously prospered of the Lord, several earnest seekers coming
forward to engage in prayer. Miss Innis' native iireacher sought
the baptism with the Holy Ghost. The evening was given over
to an English service for the missionaries, the writer making a
report of his survey in Japan, China, and India. The e^.rly
portion of Monday was devoted to evangelistic service. There
were seventy-five present, fifty of them professed believers, and
probably twenty in their testimony gave evidence of having ex-
prienced regeneration.

It may interest the reader to know that all the land in
Swaziland is held under reserve claim or title — that is, Gold
Mining Property owners. White Farmers, and Native Reserve.
The first two charge each head of house a yearly rental, and
the law is such that a native living on such premises must work
in the mine, or on the farm, of the respective owners a portion
of each year, he of course to receive a certain wage for his
labor. Refusing to do this, the owner has the right of ejection.
Should the native be ordered to move, he would have to build
his hut elsewhere; or, if the headman of a kraal, then in a place

186 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

suitable for all his people. Grace Mission beings located on a
mining claim, is subject to removal at will of owner. The Native
Keserve set apart by the government, provides an allotment for
each native, after the system pursued in the United States of
America with referenc to the Indian. Therefore, in order to
obtain a grant for his station, the missionary m.ust secure it from
one of the three above sources, i. e., Mine or Farm Owners, or
Government Commission in charge of jSJ'ative Keserve; and only
missionaries or storekeepers can secure a grant in the native
reserve. Should they go out of business, the land would again
revert to its original purpose. Peniel is located on a thrcx'^-
acre grant in the native reserve, which Superintendent Schmcl-
zenbach secured through the assistance of the Government Com-
missioner, Swaziland being a British protectorate. We are also
hoping to get an additional seven acres, which will give us a
very fine station with sufficient land in ordinary seasons to raise
necessary mealie, grain, fruits, and vegetables to supply our
school and mission. We are greatly favored in our possession
here by having a fine body of eucalyptus shade trees, an orange
grove, a small orchard of lemons, peaches, apricots, and smaller
fruit; also a fine spring bubbling out from the mountain side
one hundred yards from the homo, supplying abundance of water
for man and beast, as well as a limited amount for irrigation
along the spruet.

Our church at Peniel is of good stone and iron construction,
with four windows, a door, and raised platform of stone, besides
cement floor. If the drawing of the stone and labor had been
paid for in cash, the building would have probably cost a thousand
dollars. A carpenter's or mason's services alone would have been
a pound per day, or about $5.00 each in American money. Hrd
the iron from Hcctorspruet, eighty miles distant, been by public
delivery, that would have been an additional heavy expense; but
our brother utilized native volunteers, and applied himself to
all kinds of work, bringing stone from a remote quarry and
building it into walls, going himself to Hcctorspruet for iron
and finishings, and wading waist deep to dig sand for cement
of floor and mortar for walls. His foresight, too, in procuring us
a wagon and donkey inspan for transportation was a great ad-
ditional saving to the General Board. So we have this substan-

CHURCH AT PENIEL MISSION, SWAZILAND

GROUP OF WARRIORS

187

188

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

tial structure at a cost of $354.85, a monument to the devoted
Christian heroism of our brother, and a living testimony of what
the grace and power of God can accomplish through a man so
consecrated to the Master's service.

Monday, we held the dedicatory services for this bu'ld'ug, rll
missionaries taking i^art, Brother Schmelzenbach interpreting.

MISS INNIS READY FOR A JOURNEY

and there was crying and praying and shoutings of joy. At
the invitation, several came forward and knelt for prayer, all
making their own petition. The native preacher from Grace
Mission testified to having received the gift of the Holy Ghost;
several native Christians claimed to have special help and joined
in the general praise and thanksgiving, thus demonstrating tliat

AFRICA

189

God is no respecter either of place or persons. Many of the
Grace Mission people had now to return, and the Peniel mission-
aries, after the evening meal, went into conference until 10
o'clock. Then, notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, none
of the missionaries felt they could retire until they had opened
the box of clothing sent by First Church, of Los Angeles. If the
homefolks could only have been present at the unpacking of
this box, they surely never would fail in their annual shipment
of clothing for distribution to the missionaries and among the
needy native families.

Tuesdny, July 14th, the weather was clear and cold, but very

PENIEL MISSION HOME

bracing, and the scene was full of inspiration. A large portion
of the day was spent in conferences with missionaries and only
adjourned at 3 : 00 o'clock in order to give Miss Innis time to
reach Grace Mission, fifteen miles away, before darkness should
overtake her, for as the road was exceedingly treacherous and
rugged, having to be made by saddle-donkey, it was sufficiently
late to start on such a journey.

At Sister Innis' departure, the writer, in company with
Superintendent Schmelzenbach, made a trip to top of the nearby
mountain, a half mile west of the home, and possibly five hun-

190

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

clred feet higher. The view was most commanding in every
direction. On the one hand swept the great bushveldt south-
eastward; then to the northwestward were the lofty mountains
circling around us, reminding us of the passage in the Psalms
which speaks of the mountains about Jerusalem.

DANIEL

Wednesday, July 15th, we had baptismal service, meeting
candidates and their several friends in the church, Brother
Schmelzenbach interpreting while the writer spent considerable
time catechising them. Some had been probationers for two years.
We then proceeded to a brook two miles away, over an exceed-
ingly rough path, so steep we were obliged to leave our donkeys

AFRICA

191

and i)roceed on foot. Arriving, the water was so shallow as to
oblige candidates kneeling to be immersed. Among these con-
verts was a native by name of Daniel, a cripple, having no use
of his lower limbs, who consequently had to travel on his hands,
dragging his body after him. We are told he frequently covers
the distance from his parents' hut to the mission, five miles, ar-
riving before breakfast in order to be present at family prayers.
He is a devout Christian, a hard student, and is ejndeavoring to
obtain sufficient education so he can teach his fellow-countrymen.
The mission folk are frequently aroused at 3 : 00 or 4 : 00 o'clock
in the morning by his audible prayer, as he makes sui)plication

.MIS

IXNJS AND HEATHEN GIRLS (Sisters

in the church or out in some ravine. This is another evidence
of the power of the Gospel to save every one that believeth.

We were somewhat perplexed by the case of a native woman,
converted a number of months ago, and very desirous of baptism,
yet who had not strength of character to stand against her hus-
band's demands and refuse to "grind beer." Beer drinking is the
almost universal custom in Swaziland, but our missionaries feel
that they must be firm in demanding that converts should always
prove their faith by good works. Finally the husband came and
promised if his mother would grind the beer, he would release
the wife from her duty, so she could be immersed. One of the

192

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

difficult problems of the missionaries is the instructing and build-
ing up of the native convert.

Thursday, the 16th, in company with Brother Schmelzen-
bach, we started at an early hour for the bushveldt section, eight
miles distant, in a southerly direction, where we hope to open
a new preaching station among the natives. The writer jour-

NATIVE CHRISTIAN GIRL WASHING

neyed on the mule, when the way was not so steep and rough
as made it necessary to dismount and walk. We made the dis-
tance down in two alid one-half hours, reaching the site which
had been selected by Brother Schmelzenbach as a prospective
outstation, provided consent could be obtained from the chief
in the section and the one seven miles further on. The writer

AFRICA

193

was very favorably iinprcssed with tlie proposed location. It is
a wide valley with a number of small spruets coming- down the
canyons and winding' throug-h it on their devious way ; while
along the banks lie native kraals containing five to seventy-five
huts each, and of course, many men, women and children.

As the prairies are every year swept by fires, and no one
IxMug on guard to protect the building, it is proposed the struc-

^^^

■K

fi

pllp'^^ ■ '^^^^p

ture shall be of stone and iron, as otherwise it might be de-
stroyed, and time, labor and money lost. And as the natives
have no system of marking the hours or days of the week, it is
quite necessary w^e should have a bell so its tones reaching miles
away could be used to call them to meeting-. There is also a
fine ledge of rock a quarter mile distant, and a nearby stream
would furnish abundant water. A white missionary could
doubtless not dwell there on account of the malarial climate,

194

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

but having- a native liclper, he could coiiio down once or twice a
month, hold services and visit kraals. On the return we stopped
and held services at one of the kraals, Brother Schmelzenbach
having great liberty of speech with the native police, and while
preaching.

You will note they are grinding beer, for it seems to be a
festive occasion, and there are much people gathered for beer-
drinking." Along the way w^e also saw a dam, or tank, where they
dip cattle to free them from ticks and other poisonous insects.
These dams are constructed and kept up by the government,
a special tax being levied on each cattle owner. Two thousand

BllOTHEll SCHMELZENBACH AND NATIVE POLICE

feet farther up, we came to another kraal where the head man,
about one hundred years old, was very ill; and who all his life
had been a great believer in spirit- worship. When Brother
Schmelzenbach wanted to offer prayers for him the head man
said: "No! Don't bring trouble on me by praying here; for
it will make the spirits angry ; but pray for me after you reach
home." This man is one of many who believe that at death
the spirit enters the body of a serpent and dwells in the ceiling
of some hut. We had a refreshing repast at the mission, after
which we held a brief conference witli oiir Sniierintendent con-
cerning the future of the work.

AFRICA

195

Friday, July ITth, was a delightful day, with bright suu,
balmy air, and plentiful supply of ozone. After an exciting
scene among the natives, we finally succeeded in getting Brother
Schmelzenbach's family, together with necessary baggage, edi-
bles, and camping accouterment, loaded into a wagon and began
the journey to Grace Mission at Popanyaan. Grace Mission is
five miles from Pigg's Peak, a fifteen mile drive from Indingeni,
the location of Peniel — and such dreadful roads as one must
travel — mountains, ant hills, precipices, deep canyons, etc. Tn
addition to the missionary party we had with us Timothy, a
native preacher, two native girls, and four native boys. Brother
Schmelzenbaeh and natives w^alked the entire distance, and

WOMEN GRINDING MEALIE FOR BEER

Sister Schmelzenbaeh wdth her children about half the distance.
We outspanned about noon, where our good sister furnished us
a fine luncheon.

This being our thirty-fifth wedding anniversary, my thoughts
were mostly of home, and I had a great longing to bo there.
But I had many things for which to be thankful, one of them,
the confidence that my loved ones were in God's care and among
kind friends.

As we advanced we oftentimes came to mountains with such
precipitous sides it seemed they certainly could never be climbed;

196 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

but the dear Lord was with us, and we made the ascent witliout
accident to either ourselves or beasts. However, Brother 8chmel-
zenbach and family, together with the writer and the Christians,
abandoned the conveyance and came across country by native
path, reaching- our destination about 5 : 30 o'clock, several hours
ahead of the drivers and wagon. In anticipation of our coming,
Sister Lniis had prepared a refreshing meal, after enjoying
which several hours were spent reading letters awaiting us here
from the homeland, and in social conversation, closing in a
season of prayer.

Saturday, July 18th, we had breakfast and family devotions

A HARD CLIMB EN ROUTE FOR GRACE MISSION

at an early hour, then in company with Brother Schmelzen-
bach, he walking, the writer on the mule, we started to inter-
view the Assistant Commissioner, Mr. Boss Garner. We had
taken one of the native paths, and the first hour the way led
through very wet, high, rank grass, down through deep ravines,
across mealie fields and spruets until we struck the transport
road to Pigg's Peak, where one finds the plant of the P. P.
G. M. Co., the telegraph and postoffices, and Franklin Brothers'
store. The government camp, headquarters of Assistant Com-
missioner, and homes of native police, together with military

AFRICA

197

c'lUiip, nre all located one mile from the main transport road.
We found the gentleman in his private offiee. While very
busy, he gave us three quarters of an hour of his valuable time,
and seemed much interested in our extension enterprise, and
would be much delighted to have us enlarge our work for Swazi-
land by etsablishing schools, hospitals, etc., particularly indus-
trial schools and homes for young women and girls. He was very
enthusiastic over Brother Schmelzenbach's plans, and author-
ized him to go ahead and erect his church wherever he could
secure consent of the local chief, and not trouble to first secure
permission from him. He was also inclined to help us obtain

GOLD MINE, PIGG'S PEAK

free grants for hospitals, and encouraged our purchase of land
while cheap for school and church purposes. At his urgent in-
vitation, we called at his home. His wife was a very amiable
lady who was just recovering from miliaria, the first and only
attack in nine years. It gave us much pleasure to call upon
this Commissioner and his estimable wife, because of their great
kindness shown to Brother and Sister Schmelzenbach while cast-
ing about to find suitable location for the mission.

We now hurried to Pigg^s Peak, stopping first at Franklin's
store, where our missionaries do the major portion of their
trading, and have most all of their foreign checks or drafts

198 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

cashed. These gentlemen have been very kind to the mission-
aries, and would not allow us to go until they had served us
with biscuits and tea. Our* next pause was at the postoffice,
located five hundred feet above the store. The postmistress was
very obliging, and spoke kindly of the girl Sister Innis had let
her have as a domestic for a few months. The Mining Company
has been here many years, but it is stated that it did not become
a paying institution until after the close of the English-Boer
war. The moral conditions at the Peak are reputed to be very
deplorable. It is the center of Swaziland's business industries.
The rounds of the Peak made, we set out on our return, stopping
at a sm^all store owned by a Mr. Leadley, a wheelwright and
blacksmith shop combined, with mill for making and mixing
flour and meal. We were delighted to receive several letters
containing good news from family and homeland, the same
having been held for us here. A little longer delay to obtain
necessary linchpins for the wagon, then we continued our trip
and succeeded in keeping mount till we reached Grace. Mission,
at about 4 : 00 o'clock. A refreshing dinner having been served,
the rest of the evening was devoted to a long discussion of
present and future needs of the work.

Sunday, July 19th, proved a great day in the interest and
history of our work at Grace Mission. It was a perfect winter
day, light frost, cool, crisp wind, and clear sky, with sun swung
well to the north, making it very favorable to our work at the
mission. We had quite a surprise before breakfast, in which I
am sure the reader will be interested. Living about three miles
up the mountain beyond Grace Mission is an old m.an with
twenty-two wives, and a large kraal, probably three or four
hundred people. He has been very much opposed to mission-
aries and all foreigners, and has repeatedly told Sister Innis
that, had he his way, he would kill every one of them. However,
she was never frightened by his uncouth treatment and harsh
speeches, but in company with Bible women frequently visited
at the kraal, alw^ays, at such times, calling on and inviting him
to her meetings. On one of these occasions, a few days before
our arrival, she had invited him to attend the special service.
He was suffering from toothache at the time, and asked if the
missionary would carry his machine for pulling teeth, also if

PIGG'S PEAK STORE, SWAZILAND

UACK MISSION, SWAZlL.Wi

199

200

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

he made any charge for same. She replied tliat Brother Sehmel-
zenbach woidd have his forceps, and that there would be no
charge attached. Though he would not promise to visit the mis-
sion, yet Sunday morning early he came bringing one of his
wives who was also suffering with toothache, and wanted the
missionary to draw the offenders. Brothej Schmelzenbach im-
mediately gathered up his forceps and went into the biggest
dental parlor the writer ever saw — all-out-of-doors — and suc-
cessfully extracted the troublesome teeth, first for the old man,
then for the wife. Brother Schmelzenbach made such a favor-
able impression that the man and his wife remained to all the

BROTHER SCHMELZENBACH AS A DENTIST

services of the day, even apologizing because they had to leave
before the close, on account of approaching darkness.

The Christian natives from Peniel with those of Grace Mis-
sion totaled seventy-five people, inchiding their children, and
took up so much room in the little church that only about fifty
of the heathen could get in; so we adjourned to hold a kind
of campmeeting out of doors in the church yard. This was a
great meeting for Swaziland. The missionaries stated that the
heathen present far exceeded the number that they, in their most
sanguine hopes, had ever thought possible. Good order held

AFRICA

201

tliroUiilMHil the day. Miss Juiiis had ft'ixnit liberty in conducting
the song service, also in exhorting; Brother Schmelzenbach spoke
with much unction, then interpreted while the writer undertook
to bring the message. The Holy Spirit worked mightily; and
at the altar there were earnest seekers, praying, shouting, crying
and tears falling on the ground. The writer preached on the
power of the Gospel to take away the stony heart, and fill its
room with one that is clean and pure. A good many of the un-
believers were seeking forgiveness of sins; many of the Chris-
tians sought a clean heart, and for a power to save them from
the old tt'mptation to sin, and keep them good wherever they

NATIVE CIIKISTIANS, GRACE MISSION

might be. A woman who lived fifty miles away from the mission
was a very earnest seeker. A man who was once a Christian,
and a good preacher, but now far from God, as he drank, smoked,
and beat his wife, cruelly mistreating and swearing at her when
she would not grind beer, was an earnest seeker, and seemed to
get help. It is necessary that our missionaries should be very
firm with these seekers, and insist on their praying for them-
selves. Many are helped; but tim.e will be needed to get them
established in the things which go to make up a life for God,
and fi-t them as right ensamples among their associates.

202

WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

Our second session took the form of a classmeeting' in wliich
instructions were given to the believers with reference to per-
sonal Christian living-. Then, by special request on the part
of the native believers, we devoted a little time to the g-reat ques-
tions that are perplexing not only the native Christians, but
the missionaries themselves — (1) The question of "ekalobola,"
or paying- a ransom, or buying their wives and concubines with
cattle; (2) Relieving wives from grinding beer for their hus-
bands; (3) Plurality of wives; (4) Which woman would be con-
sidered the true wife and received into the church.

The writer told them the "Manual" held many instructions on

NATIVE CONGREGATION KNEELING

Christian living, also the doctrines and rules pertaining to the
things we should refrain from doing; but as we never before
had had to meet the above questions, the General Assembly had
never made any special laws concerning them. We told them
that the General Assembly would cai-efully consider these mat-
ters, and would doubtless uphold the policy already pursued by
the missionaries on the field. This policy as already explained is
not to receive those who "ekolabola" for their wives, or receive
same for their daughters, nor those who have more than one wife,
nor women who still grind beer for their husbands, nor men

AFRICA 203

who will not stoj) using- it. ]Vreanwliilo the authority of" th<3
missionaries sustains this hiiih standard, awaiting' the enactment
of a permanent law by the General Assembly.

At the session immediately following-, and on account of the
distance apart, as well as dangers of the route between the two
missions, besides the increasing demands seeming to render it
very essential, the writer ordained both Brother Schmelzenbach
and Miss Etta Innis, after which they assisted in the sacrament
of the Lord's Supper. Usually the sacrament is observed once
in every three months, when this is possible; l)ut Sister Innis
has been so isolated in her work it has been three yejrs since
she received it.

After this we had the testimony meeting, A number of na-
tives testified as to what we in the homeland would call justific-
tion, except Solomon, who testified to having received tlu- gift
of the Holy Spirit.

This closed the series of meetings at Grace Mission, ;.:s on
account of the expense to secure lighting- facilities, also because
of the dangers to which the natives would be exposed by attacks
of wild beasts and serpents over the long, rugged and uns-ife
paths, after darkness had settled down, it is considered imprac-
ticable to hold services at night. Some of the natives living
farthest away had therefore gone while the sun wi s still (ju.ite
a way lip; and as wc finally dismissed it was just setting. All
the natives now said good-bye except those of Peniel, who were
to remain over until next day, free food having been arranged
for them, the same consisting of boiled mealie-mush and pump-
kin. After refreshments, wo went into conference to discuss
the interests of our work in Africa, appointing Brother Schmel-
zenbach superintendent of the district work and Miss Innis sec-
retary of same; Brother Schmelzenbach was also made treasurer,
they to hold office until their successors are elected.

Monday, July 20th, up at 4 : 00 o'clock, having had a couple
of hours rest and an early breakfast, we packed and loaded our
wagon, then accompanied Brother Schmelzenbach to pray for
preacher Solomon's baby, which was very sick, the twin brother
having- already died. The native Christians having gathered for
farewxll service, T read the One Hundred and Twelfth Psalm.
and sought to bring them the comforting message of God's

204 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

power to keep, and told them I knew it was so, for He had kept
me in the Christian way nearly forty years. After the final
good-bye we started for Hectorspruet, where we were to make
connections for Cape Town, thence by steamer to Cape Verde
Islands, Our donkey inspan having had a couple of days' rest,
we started from Grace Mission down the grade at a smart pace
to connect with the transport road, a mile or more distant. The
natives following us down the long hill sting in Zulu, "God be
with you till we meet again." As we reached the top of the
opposite hill, we took a farewell look and offered prayer that
God would bless and prosper the work in Swaziland, wondering
if we would ever see its people again before we meet them on
the Resurrection morn.

About noon we crossed IJmlati River, a broad but shallow
stream, we pushed on until 10:00 o'clock at night. We would
have stopped an hour earlier, but the tribe had assembled for
beer-drinking, and some of their men, coming out and ordering
us to go on, we thought it the better wisdom to do so. AVith a .
board taken from Sister Innis' kitchen door, we improvised a
bed with the blankets and my typewriter as a pillow and suc-
ceeded iii getting a good night's rest, Brother Schmelzenbach
sleeping as usual under the wagon. We noticed as we pro-
gressed in the bushveldt country that the weather was consider-
ably warmer, and the grass had already begun to look green
where it had been burned over.

July 22nd, we were up in time to see the beautiful, clear
sunrise break over the land, and we inspanned for our last run.
We had not gone far when we came to a section abounding
with ant heaps, reported to be the largest known in Africa.
The morning w^as spent in reviewing the work with Superin-
tendent Schmelzenbach ; and, having made good time, wo out-
spanned near the station at 1 : 00 o'clock, where we rearranged
our baggage and changed clothes, leaving nearly all our heavier
garments for the missionaries' use. We had a refreshing dinner
of chicken, bread and hot tea, with cheese and crackers. With
the assistance of our brother interpreter, we now had a heart-
talk with the drivers, one admitting he ought to seek the Lord
soon, as his heart was troubled. After another season of prayer
the donkeys were inspanned, and the writer with baggage was

AFRICA

205

carried to the. station. We secured tickets, checked luggage,
deposited mail, and gave the last moment to the final fare-
wells. We boarded the westbound train for Johannesburg at
-i : 40 p. m., passing- through Pretoria, the garden spot of South
Africa, just on time to view the splendid sunrise. The forty-
five miles to Johannesburg was through a roug-h, hilly and
barren country. We were delayed in this city several hours. It
is an exceedingly healthful location, having an altitude of fifty-
eight hundred feet, and is noted for its gold output. At last
wo made connections with the Royal Mail train, having thirteen

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SOUTH AFRICA ANT-HEAP

coaches and modern equipment, with good dining service, except
that the wall brackets instead of being decorated with the cus-
tomary flowers had bouquets of bottles of spirits and wines.
Evidently, it would seem, they make a specialty of serving the
public with these beverages.

Leaving all traces of the gold-bearing quartz about thirty
miles south of Johannesburg, our course ran through a vast
expanse of country very much in appearance like the western
and southern parts of the United States of America, prairies
with ant hills and many scrubby trees like the mesquite of Texas
and Mexico, the monotony was varied by frequent sights of large

20() WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

iiispans of oxen, mules, or donkeys bound for some distant city.
We passed Kiniberley, noted for its diamond output, which
was last year over one hundred million dollars, and continued on
in an uninterrupted course in and out and around the mountains
till finally, Saturday morning*, July 25th, we reached the beau-
tiful Cape Town country with its lofty mountain peaks and
broad valleys, dotted with eucalyptus, pepper, and various fruit-
bearing trees, reminding- one of southern California, arriving in
station at 9 : 15. We had anticipated making connections here
with the Royal Mail steamer scheduled to leave Cape Town at
1 : 00 p. m., but were informed she would not stop at Las
Palmas where one must transfer for Cape Verde Islands. So,
abandoning- all hope of leaving Cape Town until Monday, July
2Tth, and being* assured that the steamship Galatia would make
connections at the Canaries in time for St. Vincent, August
17th, we booked to sail at 4 : 00 o'clock, Monday, July 27th.
Having- engaged room at the Manchester Hotel, and desiring
to be relieved of the distressing neuralgia which had followed
me for weeks, I started in search of a dentist. Having finished
with the dentist, I spent the balance of the day at the hotel,
with the exception of a couple of hours' ride on the tramway-
car around the Bay route. The scenery on this trip was delight-
ful, giving one a view of the city as well as the mountains,
and the coast.

Sunday, July 26th, the sunrise was one of the most magnifi-
cent ever witnessed. In the morning, I visited the Presbyterii ii
church; in the afternoon, attended service at the Y. M. C. A.;
and at night St. George's Cathedral, Church of England, and
Salvation Army.

Monday, July 27th, at 9 : 00 o'clock, I proceeded to Cook
Company's ofiice, and was inform.ed that the Galatia was late
and would not connect with Las Palmas at St. Vincent, so I
booked to sail on the German ship, Gertrude Woermann, which
was in dock and would sail at 4 : 00 o'clock, and make connec-
tions with Las Palmas for St. Vincent. Another hasty visit to
the dentist, a last budget of mail deposited for home, a light
lunch, and the wnriter with baggag-e was hurried on board.
Owing to the roughness of both sea and weather, the steamer
did not weigh anchor until 6 : 00 o'clock a. m., Tuesday, July

AFRICA

207

28tli. There was a lieavy sea, and the vessel rolled and pit(,'hod
as soon as outside the harbor. As the day advanced the storm
gathered force, the wind blowing; a perfect gale, and at 4 : 00
o'clock, she took such a sea that all the funnels were down.
The storm raged three days and nights, lashing the sea into
such a fury that it threatened to engulf our good ship. Many
of the passengers were suffering wretchedly from sea-sickness,
and a colony of negroes, in the transport, being accustomed to
tropical climate, succumbed to malaria and pneumonia, many
of their number dying.

The German vessel made tw^o stops in German West African

STREET SCENE IN CAPE TOWN

ports. First, July 30th, 3 : 30, found us anchored in Liedeszencht
Lutesipbuch Bay. Here a large supply of vegetables and fresh
water was taken aboard. July 31st, we made our second stop,
at Swakopmond Port, but the sea continued so rough the tugs
would not come out to meet us, so we remained at double anchor
until Saturday, August 1st, putting off and taking on cargo, and
set sail at 2 : 00 p. m. Still the great sw^ells made the steamer
plunge madly at times.

Sunday, x\ugust 2nd, was largely spent in meditation on the
Book of Jude. At 10 : 00 o'clock, there was great excitement

208 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

througliout the ship created by Captain Castoii's eomiiiuuicatiiig
a wireless message which stated that owing to the war existing
between Germany and Austria against Servia, Kussia, and
France, lie was ordered to make nearest neutral port in order
to save the ten million dollar cargo and valuable ship; and
that he would at once set sail for Brazil. It was evident such
a course would take us three thousand miles out of our wpy,
but we continued en route for a Brazilian port and succeeded in
dodging the British cruisers searching for us, at last ijutting
into a small j)ort, Sapetida, on the 17th, a black plague quar^ n-
tine station, about fifty miles south of Bio de Janeiro, where
we were detained until August 19th. A pilot boat arriving f rem
Bio de Janeiro at this time, her pilot not only gave us infor-
mation about the war, a theme of much interest to us all, but
informed us we w^ere to proceed to Bio de Janeiro, where we
arrived safely the same day. The morning was quite foggy and
concealed the beauties of the coast with its i:»icturesque mxoun-
tains; but as we approached jjort it lifted somewhat, and we
could see the strong fortifications and the formidable fortress
in the center. At length we were anchored in one of the largest
and most beautiful harbors in the world, of i^roportions ample
for the accommodation of the combined naval forces of all the
nations. As Zapata Bay is a black plague quarntine, we were
obliged to remin on board till the 20th, in order to give oppor-
tunity for thorough fumigation of the ship. At last allowed
to land, we immediately visted the American Consulate to advice
with him as to the possibility of making St. Vincent; then we
called on the British Consulate, also at the Boyal and Pacific
Mail Company's office ; but at none of these places were we able
to receive any encouragement that we could leave Bio de Janeiro
for several days, and none thought it advisable for us to con-
tinue our endeavors to tour Cape Verde Islands. While waiting,
we cabled headquarters for money, as we had* not anticipated
this extra long voyage and the Woermann Ship Company
claimed they were relieved of further responsibility, having
landed lis in neutral port.

The writer made several attempts to arrange for booking on
the India Prince, running direct to New York City, but feeling
som.e uneasiness as to our ability to voyage safely, we finally

AFRICA 209

decided to enter bookiii.u' cii the Paeiiie mail steamer Oriaiia.
This decision was approved by the American Consulate. Having
cabled home that we were sailing on the Oriana via Liverpool
and Scotland, we hastened on board, leaving Kio do Janeiro
at 5:30 p. m., August 25th.

We reached St. Vincent, Cape Verde Islands, September
2nd, at 6 : 30 p. m. Our original plan was to have visited the
Pentecostal Nazarene Mission at Brava, one hundred and twenty
miles distant, where there is a population of forty thousand,
and a good church property valued at eigtheen hundred dollars,
with a membersliii) of sixtj'^ Portuguese converts. Going ashore,
we consulted the ship comijany's agent; then attempted to see
the American Consul, but on account of lateness of the hour his
office was closed. However, by the assistance of a Christian
brother, Mr. Augusto M. Miranda, I had an interview with the
Secretary of the American Legation. Brother Miranda was the
gentleman whom our missionary, Mr. Diaz, had requested to
accompany me to Brava, and from him I obtained much vnlu-
able information. From this interview we went to call on
his majesty's British Consul, Captain Taylor, who very kindly,
but firmly assured the writer that unless he had several months
to remain in the islands, he should by all means not neglect
the opportunity to resume his journey on the Oriana. Believ'ng
this to be the only sane and safe course to pursue, he decided
not to miss the present occasion to complete his voyage. This
was a great disappointment to the writer, as it doubtless wrs
to the General Board, for we had come so near to our work. But
later experiences and developments compensated for the loss,
and justified the decision as having been a very wise one.

We continued our voyage, stopping at Lisbon, September 7th,
and at Leixoes — its common name being Oporto — where we
had a narrow escape from going on the reefs on account of a
heavy fog being suddenly precipitated. Our next anchorage,
September 9th, was at Vigo, Spain, where we took on cargo
and passengers. Our second port in Spain was at Corunna.
September 12th, we made Lapolice, port of La Rochelle, France.
We were obliged to anchor some distance from the pier on
account of the large number of transports in dock. About thirty
thousand soldiers were being landed, and immediately hurried

210 WORLD-WIDE MISSIONS

oft" to the line of battle less than three hundred miles distant.
There was great excitement everywhere prevalent on account of
the war. After a stop of two hours, we left this port and con-
tinued on to Liverpool, England, where, having dodged the
German armored cruisers seeking us, we arrived safely at 10: 30
Sunday morning, September 13th, in time to hear the church
bells chiming for morning service — a most welcome sound to
us. Having passed the medical examination, with our effects
and self safely landed, we took time for a special season of
thanksgiving and praise to God who had so remarkably cared
for us during all the forty-three days we had been a war
refugee, and, indeed, during the entire trip. The reader will be
interested to know of the providential leadings of the Lord
in that the waiter was deterred from sailing on either the
British steamer Galatia, or the India Prince, as the first-
mentioned was captured by a German cruiser, and the second
was sunk. We feel, too, that the long delay in India was of
His direction; as also the change of route from Calcutta through
Suez Canal, as originally planned to the more direct one from
Calcutta to East Coast, South Africa, already referred to.

In Liverpool, the writer enjoyed the privilege of attending
service at St. Andrew's Cathedral, Church of England.

Monday, September 14th, we arrived in Glasgow, Scotland,
and were met at the station by a Brother Cunningham, a student
of the Holiness Pentecostal Bible College here, who very kindly
conducted us to Westborne Terrace, the home of Rev. George
Sharpe, and where the writer was most royally entertained
during his stay in Scotland and England. The writer had not
yet had the i3rivilege of meeting Brother Sharpe, as he was
still absent in America on a vacation and campmoeting tour;
but through the Christian courtesy of his wife and daughters,'
so generously bestowed, he was at once made to feel at home.

As the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene and Brother
Sharpe had been negotiating with reference to the union of the
Pentecostal churches there, and the Pentecostal Church of the
Nazarene, and the prospect of such union had been greatly
augmented during General Superintendent Walker's visit to
Scotland, the writer, through the advice of Sister Sharpe and
a number of associate work(^rs, at once proceeded to make an

AFRICA 211

itinerary. This plan was heartily approved by Brother vSharpe
when he arrived, and a further visitation of Scottish and English
churches and missions arranged. The writer enjoyed services
with the congregations at Paisley; IJddingston ; Whifflet; Mor-
ley, England; Androssan ; the Weslyan Pentecostal Church of
Edinburgh; Leith, and their anniversary which was held at
Park Head Pentecostal Church. It had been hoped that the
union might have been consummated during the writer's stay,
but unable to perfect the necessary arrangements, the matter
was postponed. It is still pending. However, it is hoped it will
be completed at their Easter Assembly, 1915. The writer is
incapable of expressing his appreciation of the great kindness
shown him by Brother Sharpe and family during his sojourn
in Scotland, especially as he had found himself in a very ex-
hausted physical condition when he arrived in Glasgow.

On October 17th we sailed from Liverpool on the steamship
Baltic, which made a safe voyage, and landed us in New York
Friday, October 16th. Needless to say, the writer had been look-
ing forward with great anticipation to the glad hour when he
might catch the first glimpse of the lights along the shore of
his own native land, but a heavy fog caught the longed-for
vision from our eyes, and we could form no idea as to how near
land we were, until startled by the sudden warning of the fog-
horn, we were apprised of our close approach. The writer could
not help shedding tears of joy, overcome as he was by the sense
of God's goodness in bringing him safely all the way. This
fog was soon dispelled by a rain, which continued all day. We
passed quarantine about 8 : 00 o'clock, and reached Pier No. 60
at 10 : 00 a. m. Here we were made glad by the welcome from
Brother Jump, husband of our pastor in New York City, the
Rev. Mrs. Ida M. Jump. The writer will never forget their
great kindness in meeting him and rendering so much assist-
ance, as well as the cordial invitation to join himself and wife
at lunch in the Pennsylvania station, which, needless to say,
was accepted and very much enjoyed. Then, the good-bye said,
we were soon seated on a fast train for Pittsburgh, where we
stopped for a brief visit with our daughter and family, Mr. and
Mrs. Whitehead. Then, continuing our journey, we arrived in
Kansas City, October 18th, and of course hastened with all

^t3^ tx^

AFRICA 213

speed to home and loved ones, wlioni (iod had so tenderly and
kindly cared for during our long- absence of nearly ten months.
After joyful greetings, we all engaged in a special season of
prayer and thanksgiving to our faithful Father, who had so
prospered us and brought us to our "desired haven."

And Jesu^ came and spahe unto tliem, aayhiy, All power is
given unto me in heaven and in earth.

Go ye therefore, and teach all nations, haptizing iliem in the
name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost;

Teaching them to ohserve all things whatsoever J have com-
manded you: and lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end
of the world. Amen (Matt. 28:18-20).

Mission Stations Not Visited During
the Missionary Tour.

MEXICO

While Mexico was not in the path of the writer's trip around
the world, it was his privilege a few years since to visit our
work in that republic.

We have mission stations at Mexico City, Tonala, Jalisco,
and San Geronimo. Arriaga is the postoffice address for Jalisco,
Mexico.

Kev. S. M. Stafford and Mr. C. H. Miller were pioneers of
the work in Mexico before the union of forces at the General
Assembly, Pilot Point, 1908.

At each of our mission stations in the state of Chiapas, we
have quite substantial buildings ; and at Jalisco and San Gcron-
into parsonages attached ; while in Tonala we have a separate
parsonage building of six rooms with a most excellent well.

We reg-ret very much that on account of the disturbed con-
ditions in Mexico these churches in Chiapas have been closed
and the missionaries brought home in obedience to the Presi-
dent's proclamation; so at present the only mission we have
to continue is that in charge of Dr. V. G. Santin at Mexico
City, D. F., who through grave hindrances, sacrifices, and im-
minent personal peril has carried on our work in a rented hall.

We have also a work in Juarez, Mexico, where we have been
conducting Sunday school and mission services in a rented hall;
but on account of the unstable government, our missionary —
Rev. S. D. Athens and his associate, Mrs. Santos Elizando —
have been located on the El Paso side of the boundary; and at
times have been permitted to do very effectual work in the
nrisons, hospitals, and among the soldiers. AVhile waiting for
ihe restoration of peace, our representatives have been very
active in El Paso and their labors richly blessed. Recently, too,
our Board has been able to purchase a building in the central

214

MISSION STATIONS NOT VISITED 215

part of the ^Moxictin work and a very [)r('(M(>iis vcvivnl is now in
progress.

Rev. J. H, Estes is pastor of a self-supporting- Mexican work
in Doming, New Mexico; and Mrs. M. McReynolds has for
several years been very successful in evangelistic and school
work among Spanish speaking people in southern California.

CENTRAL AMERICA AND CUBxA

These missions are among the new fields coming to us
through the recent union of forces of the Pentecostal Mission and
the Pentecostal Church of the Nazarene. The work in Central
America began in 1901. Rev. and Mrs. J. T. Butler, and Rev.
and Mrs. R. S. Anderson are stationed at Coban, Guatemala.
Coban is about two hundred miles from, our southernmost mis-
sion in Mexico. Our present operations consist in circulating
hundreds of thousands of papers and tracts from our Spanish
press, evangelistic touring, and day schools, together with reg-
ular mission station and Sunday school work.

The work in Cuba was begun at Trinidad in 1902 by Rev.
and Mrs. J. L. Boaz, Miss Lcona Gardner, and their co-laborers
— Rev. and Mrs. Tiofilo Castellanos. Brother Castellanos has
charge of a large territory in the country, including the vilbg^e
of Condado, also another nearby town of som=e two thousand
people; but there are a number of communities in this section,
all of considerable importance, W'hich together with the adjacent
country are sadly in need of the Gospel ; and in which there is
neither work nor workers. Trinidad is about two hundred miles
from Havana on the southern coast of Cuba.

Our missionaries both in Central America and Cuba have
the esteem and confidence of the people, and are frequently im-
portuned by the people of surrounding states to come and preach
to them.

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